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Old 13 March 2021, 06:38   #1
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SBS Trailer service

A few weeks back I rasied a trheard about AlKo Flange nuts ..... https://www.rib.net/forum/f49/sbs-tr...uts-85347.html
Went ahead and did service - detsuils beklwo may be of use to some.




New boat and trailer halfway through last season, so with only 20Hrs use expected brake service to go easy, to be I was wrong.

The trailer is an SBS 2600 EL and been happy with the way it performs, recovers well, and tows a treat, some nice touches such as built-in wiring to the lights, hub-flush, nylon mudguards (better than Galv that rust & split easily) and chassis is one piece - all welded together prior to Galvanising.

Time for maintenance
First off could not get the dust caps off the hubs, they do not come off easily or without damage .. a rubber mallet, pipe grips etc.
So had a copy of the removal tool made up in a lathe :



Works a treat removes and refits with zero damage.

The flange nuts were really tight .... I loosened with a 1m long torque bar to beak the seating and then removed them with a pneumatic air driver.

Now the unwelcome part ... You can see the corrosion of the brakes after on a few months use, and worrying was the rust on the swing-arms.




Stripped all parts out, degreased fully, then De-Salted with CHLOR-X, rinsed off. Cleaned inside drums with WURTH drum cleaner
The stub axle, main cross axle swing arms had significant rust on them …after only ½ a season …. It is bsurd that Alko produce galvanized cross-beams, back plate, but the swing-arms are just pained with a thin matt black paint, the stub axle inside the drum is not painted at all ……. Both corroded significantly.
Also the brake shoes are only electro-plated not galvanized .. so they rust after the first dip in the sea.
Treated all rust with KuRust Rust converter.


Painted swing arms, drum, shoes and stub axle …… using Rust Buster EWM21 2-part epoxy paint … this stuff is 100% salt waterproof, and hard as nails.
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/e...hassis-paint-7

I reassembled the brakes, and it's worth saying that AlKO excels at making it difficult to refit the shoe spring retaining clip ….. one side is easy, the other is between the swing-arm and back-plate , with less than ½” gap …. You can’t get a finger in there, let alone with a clip….. poor design.
I ended up compressing spring with a clamp and lowering in the retaining clip with a telescopic magnet. It should not be this difficult.


Before fitting the drums sprayed the backplate, springs, adjusters with Lanoguard marine & chassis liquid …. and coated adjuster mechanism in Lanoguard Marine grease.
Also sprayed the liquid on the rear of the back-plates.
This marine spray product sprays on easily then set like a wax coating, a bit like Waxoyl if you are familiar with that ...... but much superior performance
https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/
I had masking tape on the contact face of the shoes, and also did not spray on the inside of drums.


Putting the drum back on with new flange nuts is a new experience, always had taper roller bearings previously you install with end float and a split pin. These 'Euro hubs' use ‘sealed for life bearings and these are fitted with a one-time use flange nut, which you have to discard each time you remove, and they need to be torqued to 290 Nm, this was outside the range of my torque wrench …. Luckily picked up a big beast of a torque wrench off off Market Place.
To reach 290Nm still need a long piece of tube over the torque wrench handle ….. it’s a lot of torque for sure.

Not sure I like the idea of no seals on the bearings …. I know they are classed as ‘sealed for life’ but that may work on a caravan, but being fully immersed in Saltwater each time I go out ….. can’t see them lasting too well. On another forum guys are talking on replacing after 18 months .... my Taper roller bearing were still good after 5 years - just replaced seals annually. On the Tape Roller bearings I used to fit Bearing Buddies which kept a positive pressure on the grease. Did keep bearings good, but due to seal leakage, the backplates were really messy when it came to annual service.


Job done for this year ... Lanoguard suggests spraying the whole of the trailer ... not sure if I will do that, but will apply oil to all moving bits and all the nuts & U bolts.
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Old 13 March 2021, 06:39   #2
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Pic of reassemble drum ..... post would only allow 5 images.


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Old 13 March 2021, 07:20   #3
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Great job Sargan, thanks for taking the time and trouble to write this up.

I thought it a good idea brush on some 95% zinc Galvafroid after the rust converter. Will see if this holds it back for a little longer.
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Old 13 March 2021, 10:17   #4
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I tried Galvroid on other bits of trailers in the past, does not last that long in Saltwater. I started using the 2-pack paint about 10 years ago, it is brilliant at standing up to Saltwater.
Ruins your clothes applying it .. :-)

Key is to De-grease and then De-Salt, otherwise wasting effort piainting.


Annoying AlKo does not galvanise all parts .... nuts that they electroplate, useless in saltwater.
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Old 13 March 2021, 11:53   #5
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Great job. That's almost exactly what I've done with all my trailers except to date I've used wax oil rather than langoguard.

I wax oil the whole trailer too. Cheap to do if you buy the wax oil in a 5L drum.

I also found that the sealed for life alko bearings on my trailer were an exact match for a Ford Fiesta. I bought 4 continental branded ford focus bearings with the special flange nuts (which are meant to be single use only, i.e. replaced each time you change the bearing) the bearings were good quality, well packed with grease and about 1/5 of the price of ALKO genuine bearings.

The nut and circlip were identical too.
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Old 13 March 2021, 12:00   #6
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Good to know about bearings ... are they cheaper than buying from a Trailer company ?

Worth taking a look at Lanoguard, getting rave reviews by 4x4,I have both .... Lanoguard certainly much easier to spray.
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Old 13 March 2021, 19:13   #7
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Another issue is that the corrosion spreads between the friction material & the shoe causing the bonding to fail & allowing the friction material to come off inside the drum.
Look for any gaps between material & shoe.
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Old 14 March 2021, 05:01   #8
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Is there a risk that the Lanoguard will 'melt' with the heat generated during braking and drip on to the inside of the drum?

I tend to paint brake related stuff with copper slip. It won't give the level of protection you have though so it is swings and roundabouts.
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Old 14 March 2021, 05:11   #9
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Don’t see it as an issue .... no Lanoguard used on the drum or on the shoes, so don’t see it getting hot.
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Old 14 March 2021, 05:35   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintman View Post
Another issue is that the corrosion spreads between the friction material & the shoe causing the bonding to fail & allowing the friction material to come off inside the drum.
Look for any gaps between material & shoe.


I got so fed up of binning otherwise sound brake shoes because of the linings blowing, I took a set to a local outfit in sheffield & had them re-lined using the proper old style copper rivets. I never changed another set as long as I had the trailer.
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Old 14 March 2021, 05:46   #11
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Maybe having them galvanised before relining would be a good idea ... just frustrating they don’t make them better.
In the US you can get trailers with Stainless Steel disc brakes, be so much better.
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Old 14 March 2021, 06:15   #12
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Maybe having them galvanised before relining would be a good idea ... just frustrating they don’t make them better.
In the US you can get trailers with Stainless Steel disc brakes, be so much better.


My trailer has disc brakes, not stainless but sooo much easier to maintain & keep in order. The bearings are oil immersed too, very low maintenance. I don’t have to remove the hub to get at the brakes which is a big advantage.
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Old 14 March 2021, 06:21   #13
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What make trailer is it ? Was you aware disc brakes on any UK legal trailers.
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Old 14 March 2021, 06:27   #14
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What make trailer is it ? Was you aware disc brakes on any UK legal trailers.


VanClaes, fully eu type approved. Disc brakes are available for UK trailers but not often fitted due to cost. You can get them built to order.
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Old 14 March 2021, 06:45   #15
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VanClaes, fully eu type approved. Disc brakes are available for UK trailers but not often fitted due to cost. You can get them built to order.


Here you go

https://www.marcar.co.uk/wp-content/...ns-MA025-e.pdf
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Old 14 March 2021, 06:56   #16
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I have heard of Van Claes .... never seen one though.
A pity SBS and the like don’t move to disc brakes .... I assume there must be a major price difference, plus the standard AlKo axles probably come in at ‘cheap’ price as so many used.

The other big issue with twin axle trailers is when reversing the one axle ‘crabs’ when turning, seriously increasing effort needed to move.
One EU company had a neat idea that they allowed the rear axle wheels to ‘self steer’ a limited amount, reduced rear steering effort by a significant amount.

So many things I would have on a trailer if I could :-)
Get rid of rod operated brakes, have a folding draw bar (had that on one trailer saves a lot of storage space). etc.
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Old 14 March 2021, 08:17   #17
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Couldn't agree more regarding the suitability of brake components, trailing arms etc for marine use but another point in your post got my interest. You have hub-flushers.
When do you flush your brakes? At the slipway or when you get home?
My experience is that flushing at home makes corrosion significantly worse Vs not flushing at all because the brakes sit salt-free but wet until next outing, Vs drying out from heat of braking on way home.
Motto of that experience was flush at the slip or don't flush at all
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Old 14 March 2021, 08:18   #18
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Thnx .... if I was to buy I’d certainly look at these.
I had trailer ‘free’ with boat, no option on make.
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Old 14 March 2021, 08:33   #19
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SBS Trailer

Just done my brakes and bearing having been coached by Mr Caton. This was after 3 seasons and did not look much different. I wired brushed the swing arm and painted with hammerite. Just used some grease on the moving parts

I too had trouble with the spring for the brakes and it must have taken 20 minutes for the first one and by the time I came to the fourth it was 2 minutes. Chris said he had made a tool to help. i just used a couple of screwdrivers and gravity! I'm sure there must be a technique.

I have also replaced the coupling after the damper has become corroded and banging on the back. In fact I have replaced the damper on the old coupling as well as buying a new one. One of the downsides of tractor launching at Ty Calch is that the whole coupling gets immersed too.

I am also fortunate that we have a big torque wrench at work so getting 290Nm was not a problem.

Ended up buying a tool from Taunton trailer for the hub caps!

Just need to test run it now!
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Old 14 March 2021, 11:01   #20
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I gave up using Hammerite on trailers, the ‘dimple’ in the hammer effect is where there are no solids, it’s just a thin lacquer.
I found you get rust forming very quickly in saltwater use ...
The Smoothrite is better.

I tried various products over the years until I came across the 2-part epoxy ... the RNLI paint their launch trailers with it.
It is superb product, but it’s messy, seems to get all over me.
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