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Old 11 February 2013, 10:21   #11
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If the impellor drys out it will melt in seconds, any water at all will lubricate it. The engine will take several minutes to overheat even if there is no water. So for flushing I take the view that a couple of minutes of flow from the tell tale (even if a trickle) is enough to remove the salt with no real danger of cooking the engine even if flow is not ideal.
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Old 11 February 2013, 11:45   #12
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Water usually leaks through muff' sides, more if having state of the art water pressure at home. If rear U bar has enough space, need a simple mod, works fantastic well, can regulate muff's pressure against tail by means of small belt or rope turns.

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Old 11 February 2013, 12:53   #13
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If the impellor drys out it will melt in seconds, any water at all will lubricate it. The engine will take several minutes to overheat even if there is no water. So for flushing I take the view that a couple of minutes of flow from the tell tale (even if a trickle) is enough to remove the salt with no real danger of cooking the engine even if flow is not ideal.
You need to let the engine get upto running temp, otherwise the 'stats don't open & you don't get a proper flush. I always run up to temp & then give it 10 mins or so & have a quick taste of the water from the tell tale to make sure it's not salty. Then I remove the cowl & rinse off the power head.
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Old 11 February 2013, 13:14   #14
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Many thanks guys I think i'll sleep much sounder tonight
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Old 11 February 2013, 14:01   #15
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Other option is a water butt cut in half, fill up and keep the hose running. For less than the price of muffs you can flush with no worries, normally for 5-10 mins

I do have them for when on holiday, but at home it takes 10 mins to fill and has a tap to make emptying very easy.
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Old 11 February 2013, 14:07   #16
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I bought this for a fiver, cut the top third off, fitted a 3 quid waterbutt tap so i didn't have to upend it, and "Bob's your Auntie's special friend".
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Old 11 February 2013, 14:39   #17
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I bought this for a fiver, cut the top third off, fitted a 3 quid waterbutt tap so i didn't have to upend it, and "Bob's your Auntie's special friend".
Depends on engine size, you'd struggle to get much over a 60hp in that, depending on prop size.
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Old 11 February 2013, 14:41   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
You need to let the engine get upto running temp, otherwise the 'stats don't open & you don't get a proper flush. I always run up to temp & then give it 10 mins or so & have a quick taste of the water from the tell tale to make sure it's not salty. Then I remove the cowl & rinse off the power head.
good point needs to warm up a bit to open the stat, 10 minutes is a lot of fuel though, I'd make it 9 mins!
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Old 11 February 2013, 15:11   #19
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Depends on engine size, you'd struggle to get much over a 60hp in that, depending on prop size.
My 85 goes in it fine, I'd be surprised if you couldn't fit the OP's 70 in there. Measure it obviously but my real point was it's the same size as a water butt but a 10th the price. (unless it's a specially large water butt obv)
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Old 11 February 2013, 15:19   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Locozodiac View Post
Water usually leaks through muff' sides, more if having state of the art water pressure at home. If rear U bar has enough space, need a simple mod, works fantastic well, can regulate muff's pressure against tail by means of small belt or rope turns.

Happy Boating
i was going say the same with cable tie, or if it fit use dustbin with some antifreeze mix
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