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Old 10 February 2013, 17:25   #1
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Miffed Over Muff [s]

Hello

Yesterday after a trip out to run the engine in Suzuki df70a. I came home and flushed the engine with a pair of muffs [this is my first proper RIB] and noticed the muffs weren't fitting snug and leaking a lot of water.

After a while I noticed the water from the pee hole/ tell-tail was coming out at a reasonable stream, but was quite hot, not boiling hot but ''hot tapwater hot'' over the noise of the engine I detected the sound of the alarm. I promptly turned the engine off. Readjusted the muffs, only for the water to come out hot again, but i'm sure there was no alarm this time. Off I turned the engine again. Obviously the problem was not enough water pressure, at no time did the engine/pee hole run dry and at no time did the engine shut down.

So today with new muffs that fit snug, I flushed again this time the water remained cool. And the engine ran perfectly.

My question is what is the likelihood of me having done any serious damage? and will these overheating warnings be recorded on any future diagnostic checks/printouts? are there any checks I should do, ie check impeller, I'm sure the water wasn't hot enough to damage it but i'm no expert.

Many Thanks

Roller
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Old 10 February 2013, 17:32   #2
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Should be fine if she's pumpin' ok now and theres no other apparent issues.
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Old 10 February 2013, 17:37   #3
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Sounds like you caught it early so the likelyhood of any damage is low.
Yes it will show on future print outs of the ecu memory, but it isn't a big deal if it is an odd single occurrence alarm.
I have been disappointed with muffs before, sometime "tweaking" the bar together means a tighter fit, however I find with my Suzy 250 I can never get enough water in to run indefinitely on muffs so watch the temp gauge like a hawk!!
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Old 10 February 2013, 17:54   #4
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We should have a show us your muff thread
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Old 10 February 2013, 17:58   #5
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Thanks guys, I always thought as long as a steady stream of water flowed from the tell-tale that was it, obviously not........
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Old 11 February 2013, 06:44   #6
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Sorry to be a bore, but would anyone else like to comment, I need reassuring lol
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Old 11 February 2013, 07:12   #7
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Quote:
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We should have a show us your muff thread
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Old 11 February 2013, 07:14   #8
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As far as I know as long as its pumping water it will be fine. I have used muffs at boat yards where the water pressure is low and a trickle has come out of the tell tale but as long as its pumping its been fine. The muffs I use are the yellow ones that pump water out of both sides and it fits nice and tight on my Etec 60. Have a look on ebay just type in engine muffs.
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Old 11 February 2013, 07:47   #9
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The instructions for my engine (albeit much smaller) say to adjust water flow "so water is leaking around the rubber cups to ensure the engine receives an adequate supply of cooling water".

It then goes on about not running above idle and shows an image of water gushing out from around the muffs.

So I would say that as long as muffs were correctly sized/positioned, water leaking from around the muffs is normal as its an indication that flow in to muffs is more than flow out through engine and the leakage is the excess.
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Old 11 February 2013, 09:33   #10
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Why use muffs on your engine? - it has a flush port, much easier to use and no need to run the engine when flushing.
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Old 11 February 2013, 10:21   #11
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If the impellor drys out it will melt in seconds, any water at all will lubricate it. The engine will take several minutes to overheat even if there is no water. So for flushing I take the view that a couple of minutes of flow from the tell tale (even if a trickle) is enough to remove the salt with no real danger of cooking the engine even if flow is not ideal.
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Old 11 February 2013, 11:45   #12
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Water usually leaks through muff' sides, more if having state of the art water pressure at home. If rear U bar has enough space, need a simple mod, works fantastic well, can regulate muff's pressure against tail by means of small belt or rope turns.

Happy Boating
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Old 11 February 2013, 12:53   #13
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Quote:
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If the impellor drys out it will melt in seconds, any water at all will lubricate it. The engine will take several minutes to overheat even if there is no water. So for flushing I take the view that a couple of minutes of flow from the tell tale (even if a trickle) is enough to remove the salt with no real danger of cooking the engine even if flow is not ideal.
You need to let the engine get upto running temp, otherwise the 'stats don't open & you don't get a proper flush. I always run up to temp & then give it 10 mins or so & have a quick taste of the water from the tell tale to make sure it's not salty. Then I remove the cowl & rinse off the power head.
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Old 11 February 2013, 13:14   #14
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Many thanks guys I think i'll sleep much sounder tonight
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Old 11 February 2013, 14:01   #15
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Other option is a water butt cut in half, fill up and keep the hose running. For less than the price of muffs you can flush with no worries, normally for 5-10 mins

I do have them for when on holiday, but at home it takes 10 mins to fill and has a tap to make emptying very easy.
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Old 11 February 2013, 14:07   #16
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I bought this for a fiver, cut the top third off, fitted a 3 quid waterbutt tap so i didn't have to upend it, and "Bob's your Auntie's special friend".
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Old 11 February 2013, 14:39   #17
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I bought this for a fiver, cut the top third off, fitted a 3 quid waterbutt tap so i didn't have to upend it, and "Bob's your Auntie's special friend".
Depends on engine size, you'd struggle to get much over a 60hp in that, depending on prop size.
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Old 11 February 2013, 14:41   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
You need to let the engine get upto running temp, otherwise the 'stats don't open & you don't get a proper flush. I always run up to temp & then give it 10 mins or so & have a quick taste of the water from the tell tale to make sure it's not salty. Then I remove the cowl & rinse off the power head.
good point needs to warm up a bit to open the stat, 10 minutes is a lot of fuel though, I'd make it 9 mins!
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Old 11 February 2013, 15:11   #19
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Depends on engine size, you'd struggle to get much over a 60hp in that, depending on prop size.
My 85 goes in it fine, I'd be surprised if you couldn't fit the OP's 70 in there. Measure it obviously but my real point was it's the same size as a water butt but a 10th the price. (unless it's a specially large water butt obv)
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Old 11 February 2013, 15:19   #20
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Originally Posted by Locozodiac View Post
Water usually leaks through muff' sides, more if having state of the art water pressure at home. If rear U bar has enough space, need a simple mod, works fantastic well, can regulate muff's pressure against tail by means of small belt or rope turns.

Happy Boating
i was going say the same with cable tie, or if it fit use dustbin with some antifreeze mix
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