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Old 24 April 2016, 09:51   #1
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Killswitch Failure at sea

I have a Story and a Request for Help:

Over the last two seasons, I have had two killswitch failures at sea. The switch/es were aftermarket additions to a Yanmar diesel. They looked like the picture below:



The clip is holding the button out when fitted. This makes a circuit and when removed the button drops in and the circuit breaks - activating the kill/stopping the engine. In my case my original switch failed at sea, about 150 meters off a rocky lee shore - fortunately in good conditions but we did get to the point where the hook was about to go over the side. Luckily a bit of "knob twiddling" on my part remade the connection and we motored out of danger where I fitted a cable tie that widened the gap a bit and we RTB.

I had the switch replaced but the replacement went the same way the following season - this time half way across the Irish Sea but I was able to sort it underway - knowing the "way of the knob" by then.

Barrus have now supplied a different type of switch now (Thanks Scott ) and it's a push down type - release to kill. No offence intended to any of the suppliers, but all the switches are the cheapest, nastiest bits of flim-flam imaginable. TBH, I haven't seen any better on sale anywhere myself so no complaints from me! But it really is a two dollar switch - maybe a one dollar switch!
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Old 24 April 2016, 09:58   #2
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[tinhat on]Today I fitted an override switch on my killswitch...[/tinhat off]

Having experienced the feeling of being in a perfectly good boat with a f##ked killswitch, I decided to incorporate an override into the kill circuit - basically an isolator that when "on" shorts the circuit and fools the engine management system into believing the killswitch is merrily making the circuit - even though the lanyard may be removed or the switch dead. The isolator is hidden in the depths of the console and as I test the killswitch before starting, I'm unlikely to steam with it activated.

Still - I feel naughty...
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Old 24 April 2016, 10:14   #3
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The help bit...

The new switch obviously has a different lanyard and clip. I need a spare but they're proving elusive. It is a three pronged affair (see attached) but the gap is a little wider than the similar clip found on my Universal killswitch. Basically it's similar to the Evinrude/OMC/Yamaha clips but with an 8mm gap to their 5mm, different. Irritatingly, I bought one by accident back in 2008 for my 'Rudes, and chucked it in disgust. The tartan 50% of my blood is boiling! Has anyone got one going spare or know where I can score one? Not keen to pay $30 postage from the States
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Old 24 April 2016, 11:14   #4
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I prefer the Mercury flick switch type. Just a basic two position switch.
Easier for those left in the boat to operate if I've had an unexpected dip & they don't know/have forgotten where the spare cord is - just put it back to the run position & start up.
I've got both types on my boat - Mercury flick for the main & Suzuki DT4 with the hold-out-the-button - & the Mercury one is much simpler.
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Old 24 April 2016, 11:33   #5
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I prefer the Mercury flick switch type. Just a basic two position switch.
Easier for those left in the boat to operate if I've had an unexpected dip & they don't know/have forgotten where the spare cord is - just put it back to the run position & start up.
I've got both types on my boat - Mercury flick for the main & Suzuki DT4 with the hold-out-the-button - & the Mercury one is much simpler.
I've never been a huge fan of the Mercury flick switch (and having cruised with willk have no doubts anyone who was trusted with recovering him, would know where the spare cord was etc.) however I think in this case that type of switch which is not a cheap spring might be better. But my dislike of them is for the reason that might actually make them preferable - they are easy to override.

The irony of complaining about a 2 dollar switch and then objecting to paying 30 for the cord made me smile though!
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Old 24 April 2016, 11:36   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk View Post
[tinhat on]Today I fitted an override switch on my killswitch...[/tinhat off]

Having experienced the feeling of being in a perfectly good boat with a f##ked killswitch, I decided to incorporate an override into the kill circuit - basically an isolator that when "on" shorts the circuit and fools the engine management system into believing the killswitch is merrily making the circuit - even though the lanyard may be removed or the switch dead. The isolator is hidden in the depths of the console and as I test the killswitch before starting, I'm unlikely to steam with it activated.

Still - I feel naughty...
+1.
I used a "missile launch" type switch to bypass mine if need be.
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Old 24 April 2016, 11:46   #7
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...and then objecting to paying 30 for the cord made me smile though!
I object to paying $30 to post an envelope. The lanyard was another $10. Customs would get another crack at me when it arrived.

Maybe someone from there might be coming this way soon?
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Old 24 April 2016, 11:51   #8
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Quote:
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I prefer the Mercury flick switch type. Just a basic two position switch.
Yes - but I suspect that this switch is set up the other way around - make to kill? Mine is break to kill...
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Old 24 April 2016, 12:12   #9
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Yes - but I suspect that this switch is set up the other way around - make to kill? Mine is break to kill...
I'm speculating here, but can you not mount the toggle switch upside down with respect to the housing to achieve that?
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Old 24 April 2016, 12:29   #10
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Quote:
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I'm speculating here, but can you not mount the toggle switch upside down with respect to the housing to achieve that?


I still need a lanyard to fit my new killswitch!
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