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Old 20 August 2016, 14:18   #21
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Looks like you got a steal of a deal!! The kit alone on that is worth what you paid!
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Old 21 August 2016, 11:43   #22
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It does look like a bargain - will let you all know more when the engine gets looked at on Friday!!!

CHeers!
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Old 25 August 2016, 12:11   #23
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Have just sent you a pm.
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Old 26 August 2016, 21:49   #24
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test!
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Old 26 August 2016, 22:05   #25
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Test was because I just typed all the following and lost the lot when i hit post! AARGGHH!

Anyway, here I go again

Today I had the engine looked at by an engineer and we found:-

Engine is 1996 Mercury 200 Saltwater - V6 3 litre (apparently a Ford Cosworth engine - no not from the cars but from that team - Anyone know if that is true - I like the sound of that!)

We connected battery pack and.....
• Trim system worked and raised and lowered the engine
• Flywheel turned so the engine not seized - a good start! Once freed it would turnover the engine
• Spark plugs removed and not rusty with signs of oil
• Starter seized but freed up with WD40/Diesel mix!
• Compression on all chambers was good (120psi)
• Some rubber tubes perished so will replace all
• No spark on 3 cylinders so ignition system needs some attention
• Throttle cable seized
• The prop is in good condition and the right size (21)

Anyway, the long and short of it is I still think I have a bargain here. Engine refurb will be about £1k to £2k. Even if it goes a bit above that I am still quids in!

On other news the tube cleaner I bought (bought two, tried both and one of them is amazing stuff - Rib Revive - Rib & inflatable boat tube cleaner

I am going to finish cleaning the tubes tomorrow and will take some more pics!

All in all a good day and I reckon I will be doing a test run, I hope, in about 6 weeks!

Cheers

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Old 26 August 2016, 22:50   #26
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No spark could mean a few things.

CDI? 😩

Corroded ground??

Three bad coils not likely.

Bad kill switch is often the main culprit.
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Old 27 August 2016, 10:44   #27
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I'll keep you posted!
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Old 27 August 2016, 16:05   #28
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test!
This can happen if you don't enable the "Remember Me" feature when you sign in. Basically, you time out...
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Old 27 August 2016, 16:14   #29
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Thanks Willk - "remember me" switched on!

So, spent 4 hours with two lots of Rib Revive, a brush and a hose and the tubes look much much better.

Here are some pics - they are taken indoors so not that good but in one you can see the bit I missed (oops!) but it does show how much cleaner they are.

The two full shots are when I had only done the outside face. Again you can see the difference!

Question - anyone got any tips to get the rubber fixtures back to black, and perhaps the rubbing strake?

Cheers!

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Old 27 August 2016, 16:28   #30
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Oh and have also ordered some tube conditioner so hopefully the tubes will look as good as new (ish)!

Next time I work on the boat I will have it outside - wife had the big car with the towbar today!

Cheers
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Old 27 August 2016, 16:54   #31
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Mode try back to black which they use for car bumpers for the rubber basically a silicon spray
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Old 27 August 2016, 17:21   #32
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Mode try back to black which they use for car bumpers for the rubber basically a silicon spray
** Don't put silicone on your tubes ** (and I would therefore suggest keeping it away from the black rubber parts too)

- silicone is very difficult to remove even traces of.
- silicone will stop the glue sticking properly to the tubes for patches etc.
- these two effects combined mean any overspray now might affect you a year or more later if you need to patch etc..

I have never tried, but I am sure I remember someone here reporting good results with the usual thinners people use for tube prep work.
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Old 27 August 2016, 17:27   #33
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will try thinners first!
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Old 27 August 2016, 17:37   #34
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That's UV damage thinners won't do anything IMO if silicon is that bad as poly states mask it all off and spray onto a cloth for control, back to black is made for composite bumpers to revitalise the surface damaged by UV. Aero spray protecterant might work too.

Look at flexithane on polymarine web site opaque brush on liquid to restore rubber
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Old 27 August 2016, 21:07   #35
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Thanks Jeff!!
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Old 28 September 2016, 09:59   #36
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Jobs for Saturday morning:-

Finish Tube Clean (only one small section to do)
Fix 2 no. pinprick holes in tubes (Hypalon repair kit purchased)
Re-secure ruubbing strake to tubes on rear left side (last 2 foot is detached)
Apply conditioner to tubes
Fix new jockey wheel to trailer
Fix new winch to trailer
Check fuel tank condition (i will see what I can see when I take the cap off!)
Take off a trailer wheel to get part details for new brakes
Get details from the old battery so I can buy a new one
Clean rubber fittings (cleats etc) with thinners (hope it works!)

I am then going to take pictures of every single part of the boat and trailer so that when I think of the next job that needs doing I don't keep having to go back to the yard to check!

Once all done I will update this thread!

Oh yes, I also need to move the boat further back on the trailer - any thoughts on how best to do this - I was going to tie the boat to something very heavy (huge fallen tree just near the store) and drive froward slowly. Assume this is the best/only way without actually launching!

Cheers

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Old 28 September 2016, 10:24   #37
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put your winch strap on slack off a short distance tie another decent rope the same as a back up and push back it should go with ease you might need a slight incline to help.
keep it on the car to stop it tipping up and damaging the stern keep doing that till you get the required distance and just winch back when done if leaving it back put a jack and some blocks under before removing it from the car.

cheers
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Old 28 September 2016, 10:59   #38
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I hope it is that easy - think I might need to spray some WD40 on the rollers to have any success with that!

Will let you know!

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Old 28 September 2016, 11:23   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mode View Post
I hope it is that easy - think I might need to spray some WD40 on the rollers to have any success with that!

Will let you know!

Mode
why not launch the boat then do your maintenance on the trailer thats what i do on holiday go round with the grease and check it over saves crawling about then you can move the boat when and where you please two jobs done then mode.
you could do the tree method but have someone with you so you can watch the boat & trailer sat in the car hearing a crunch is too late especially as its a new to you set up and getting on bit [meaning some thing might be weak] trailer wise.
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Old 28 September 2016, 11:33   #40
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why not launch the boat then do your maintenance on the trailer thats what i do on holiday go round with the grease and check it over saves crawling about then you can move the boat when and where you pease two jobs done then mode
Jeff......fair comment but I believe Mode's trailer may have been standing still in a garden for several years ! There may be a real risk of a trailer " disaster " on the way to his first launch .

Mode have a real good look at the trailer tyres , and try and read off the date of manufacture . You should be able to read both month and year . The caravan club will advise you ditch any tyres over seven years regardless of how good they look . If the tyres have been left loaded for any great length of time they will have flat spots or bulges . Both definite no no's . Even prolonged exposure to sunlight ( UV ) will have taken it's toll .
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