seized steering after winter storage

leishman · 16 July 2013, 17:51

took zodiac pro 4.7m for first trip after winter in shed and the steering is seized as if it has a steering lock! the rib has a mariner 60 efi engine and worked well last season. was wondering if anyone has any idea as to what could be causing the steering to be seized.

Ian_st · 16 July 2013, 17:58

Undo the connection to the engine and see if its the teleflex or the engine.

On my last rib it was seized where it went through the engine.

Lots of WD a hammer and lots of work got it released and then cleared out the tube and regressed.

A search here will provide a more technical appraisal.

Good luck

matt h · 16 July 2013, 17:58

lack of use. lack of lube/grease and sea water residue

Starovich · 16 July 2013, 18:16

had the same issue early season, had to go as far a heat and a hammer to get it loose then re grease

Solent Seadog · 16 July 2013, 18:37

Had the same problem at the start of the season. Managed to release it but then the steering went loose with no movement of the engine at all. Had to replace the steering cable so it went off to the workshop for the outboard to be removed after hacking off the security bolt (lost key). I guess it was caused by lack of use, grease and water.

frankc · 16 July 2013, 19:08

Salt water loves steering systems. Managed to free the hung cable once, but ended up hack sawing the tube and removing motor from boat in order to clear the problem one with a new steering assembly. Hopefully you will be able to fee yours without major surgery.

Never leave the steering in the position that the cable is completely retracted in the housing. Had a little help from the grandchildren when it ended up retracted and frozen

Poly · 16 July 2013, 19:10

As above. Step away from the hammer and heat guns before you do any damage though. These are last resorts. Unbolt the link bar from the steering 'piston'. Check the engine moves by hand and the piston doesn't when the wheel is moved. Put the biggest screwdriver you can through the hole in the piston (where you just removed the bolt from), use that to rotate the piston. Liberal application of WD40 (or plus gas etc), and fingers crossed it will be released, then clean dried up grease corrosion etc off. Work through thoroughly.

Dirk Diggler · 16 July 2013, 19:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poly

As above. Step away from the hammer and heat guns before you do any damage though.

Yeh, and spend to days trying to free it.

Remove the link rod, find the biggest hammer in your toolbox, a block of wood, and beat the shit out of it! If it's not moving after ten minutes, buy a new cable!