Chrysler 4.5hp 1970's flywheel issue

Brady · 10 June 2013, 10:54

'Issue' meaning I can't get it off....

This is on a very clean engine that has been looked after.

I've loosened the nut, had a properly fitted puller on it with a bit of pressure, and also done the usual tap on the top, and still it refuses to budge.
Heat gun on the wheel, WD40 down the keyway, all failed.

Has anyone got any ideas? The only reason it has to come off is to fit a kill cord, and all the electrics are inside. The engine runs fine, but I'm at the point now, (bearing in mind that if anything breaks the engine will be scrap), that it'll have to be used without a kill cord until it starts running bad due to points problems.

doggypaddle · 10 June 2013, 12:24

Replace "bit of pressure" with a "lot of pressure" , and "a tap" with "a big sharp whallop" from a copper hammer straight on top of the puller. Leave the nut on or it may take your teeth out as it flys off

They can get really tight, puller helps but its the shockwave fron a hammer that will "break" the taper
Make sure the puller is on the centra of the crank, not bearing on the nut, or you could feck the crank threads.
penetrating fluid is usually no help as ther won,t actually be a gap for it to penetrate, because the taper is that snug a fit.

Brady · 10 June 2013, 12:33

I tightened the puller as far as I dare, and gave the top puller screw a good whelt with a copper/hide mallet.
Thanks for yoir reply.. i'll have to try another day with more bottel, but as i say I didn't want a damaged and then written off engine..
Regards

J.W.W. · 10 June 2013, 13:20

Superb outboard.
Love listening to the sound that one makes!

When it doesn't come off in the way Doggypaddle said:
Make shure you use the right puller: Don't use an 2 or 3-arm puller type, but use a solid steelplate with holes in it and a big fine central thead bolt whichs goes on the cranckase. Connect the puller bij using the (i think) 5/16NC holes in the flywheel.

Leave the flywheel nut on the crankase, just loosen it 1/2 turn from fully fixed..
Then take the biggest steel hammer you've got around, (min 0,5kg) and give it a really good hit. Make sure to hit it straitgh from above and not from the side, not to damage. When it doesn't come off this way, it doe'sn't at all anymore

..

Good luck!!

doggypaddle · 10 June 2013, 14:45

Should have mentioned that, I assumed that a non hydraulic puller was being used on the UNC holes.
I suppose you can whack a hydraulic puller but it would prolly feck it up!!

Brady · 10 June 2013, 14:52

There aren't any holes to screw the puller to...just a conventional puller with claws will have to suffice.

doggypaddle · 10 June 2013, 19:17

so what are the 3 holes at 120 degree spacing around the centre bolt then?

are they not threaded?

I would be very cautious with a 3 legged puller on the flywheel periphery, you may get half the flywheel off!

Brady · 10 June 2013, 19:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by doggypaddle

so what are the 3 holes at 120 degree spacing around the centre bolt then?

are they not threaded?

I would be very cautious with a 3 legged puller on the flywheel periphery, you may get half the flywheel off!

The three holes are where I've taken the manual cord start plate off. Its the drive for the plate to lock to the flywheel..
Would be handy if they were threaded...

doggypaddle · 10 June 2013, 20:29

Ram a tap down em

Brady · 10 June 2013, 20:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by doggypaddle

Ram a tap down em

Good plan, but sadly too shallow..

I think I'll have another go next week-- with a little more oomph. I've a h-bar type kill switch on way now and would like it on really. I've a 9 & 11 yr old looking for a turn... Supervised of course.

Im going to be looking for an 8hp soon, so may part with the Chrysler and don't want it messed up for no real reason though.