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Old 28 July 2009, 07:33   #61
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Country: UK - England
Town: london
Boat name: fun
Make: zodiac futura
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu 40c
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2
Hi, just joined. Had many inflatables over the years, all makes shapes and sizes. Managed to get a FUTURA mk11 c at the end of last summer with a Tohatsu 40c with 3 hrs use!! The guy used it twice and I think it scared him!. The boat is obviously in 'new' condition and was very excited to get it as this was what I always wanted, but never managed to get hold of.

Took it out once last year, and even though it handled great, zipped on to the plane, I was a little dissapointed with top end speed. I thought these were supposed to fly!! Didn't seem much quicker than a previous non-futura zodiac with a simular set up. It is set up on tiller so hardly any weight is in the boat ,and maybe one adult and one child.
The engine did not seem to have to work very hard, it has a standard 11" prop, so I am wondering if I should up this a bit to maybe a 13"? Obviously accelaration is not a problem, just want a little more top end.
Any advice anybody has would be greatly appriciated. Will post some pics next week, just set it all up ready for some great British weather !?!?!?!?
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Old 28 July 2009, 11:59   #62
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Country: USA
Town: Great Lakes
Boat name: MK2C Futura 3.7
Make: Zodiac
Length: 3m +
Engine: Nissan 40hp Outboard
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 19
Hello & Welcome... I'm fairly new as well. Great Place.. Much Help!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jayellis888 View Post
Hi, just joined. Had many inflatables over the years, all makes shapes and sizes. Managed to get a FUTURA mk11 c at the end of last summer with a Tohatsu 40c with 3 hrs use!! The guy used it twice and I think it scared him!. The boat is obviously in 'new' condition and was very excited to get it as this was what I always wanted, but never managed to get hold of.

Took it out once last year, and even though it handled great, zipped on to the plane, I was a little dissapointed with top end speed. I thought these were supposed to fly!! Didn't seem much quicker than a previous non-futura zodiac with a simular set up. It is set up on tiller so hardly any weight is in the boat ,and maybe one adult and one child.
The engine did not seem to have to work very hard, it has a standard 11" prop, so I am wondering if I should up this a bit to maybe a 13"? Obviously accelaration is not a problem, just want a little more top end.
Any advice anybody has would be greatly appriciated. Will post some pics next week, just set it all up ready for some great British weather !?!?!?!?
What are you getting for top speed?

What year setup is it?

I hear you on the prior owner being scared... I think the woman who had mine prior to me, had the same issue...

I may be mistaken, but thought the Futura MKII C all came with the console steering, Alum floor, etc.

Do you have any pictures of your Futura?


Welcome from another fairly new guy.... this forum has been quite helpful to me, much great advice.

Edmund
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Old 28 July 2009, 13:28   #63
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Country: UK - England
Town: london
Boat name: fun
Make: zodiac futura
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu 40c
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2
Thanks for the quick reply. This set up come with no seats, wouldn't mind some actually. Not sure of excact top speed, haven't used gps yet, but just thought it would be quicker. Like I said have owned quite a few setups, maybe expecting to much. Any advice from any one with a similar setup would be appreciated. Will add some photos next week, hopefully getting out the Weekend
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Old 02 August 2009, 14:47   #64
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Country: USA
Town: Great Lakes
Boat name: MK2C Futura 3.7
Make: Zodiac
Length: 3m +
Engine: Nissan 40hp Outboard
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 19
attn. Kelson and other helpful members, Smart Tabs Questions...

I have been to my local marine supply store yesterday (West Marine) I asked about Smart Tabs for my Zodiac Futura MarkIIc, they weren't familiar with my model but had (2) versions of these tabs in stock.. a stainless model and composite plastic version "SX".

My goal, and reason for looking into these tabs: I would like to eliminate the porposing at lower speed, bring the bow down on plane a bit more, and plane at a lower speed.

My concerns are:
1. The available room that I have to accomodate Smart Tabs, see photo's dimensioned.

2. With the speed tube in this area, projecting downward from the hull 4.5" and being 6.5" wide. What effect would this have on the Smart Tab functionality? ____________

(I don't have the room really to bring the battery & fuel tank towards the bow to help balance the load.)

Any Suggestions or Advice on this topic?

Thanks in Advance....
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Old 02 August 2009, 16:35   #65
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Country: USA
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Make: zodiac futura mk2
Length: 4m +
Engine: Nissan 40 plus
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Posts: 269
I run the stainless smart tabs. They do have to have sacrificial anodes on them when run in salt water. The new plastic models might be an improvement, but I have no direct experience with them. I understand that it is a pain to move weight forward in the boat. But that is a big part of getting the Futura to pop on a plane and not have much bow rise, particularly when using an engine near the max rating. The smart tabs will help. Do the speed tubes reduce their effectiveness? Heck if I know! They don't come off so I can't say what effect they have. If I leave my tabs in the up position and start off I instantly notice the difference, so I can confidently say that they do work with speed tubes. Recognize that the tabs are all the way down when going slow. They automatically adjust up at higher speeds. The turbulent water flow maxes out off the speed tubes when you are going fast, at slow speeds it isn't significant. I didn't have a lot of trouble with the room on the transom, but I am running a MK11 so it is a bit bigger. The little metal stud or flat mushroom on your transom is for using a set of Zodiac launching wheels. My boat and motor are too big and heavy for that sort of launch. If the wheel mount is in the way you could remove it and fill the hole, but it is up higher than you will want to install the tab. My boat was bought used and has had all sorts of stuff installed on the transom in previous times. Lots of holes for stuff like a livewell pump. I sealed them up and it isn't a big deal. The first hole you drill into your clean transom may concern you, but you'll get over it.

smart tab installed with retracting pulley, line and cleat.


up position


different view
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Old 03 August 2009, 12:19   #66
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Boat name: Inflamous
Make: Ribcraft 5.3
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki DF90
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edmund View Post
My concerns are:
1. The available room that I have to accomodate Smart Tabs, see photo's dimensioned.
The stainless studs on the transom are for mounting the Zodiac stainless launching wheels (very useful for beach launching and landing) . The rear wheels double up as the wheels for the Zodiac outboard trolley. A picture is attached of my old 1996 Futura with 30hp Yamaha with the front and rear wheels attached, also a picture of the 50hp Yammy I have on my new 2008 Futura.

Cheers
Gareth

Ribcraft 4.8 - 60hp Evinrude E-tec
Zodiac Futura Mk 2 - 50hp Yamaha (2 stoke)
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Old 04 August 2009, 10:54   #67
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Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Fan Fawr
Make: RS5
Length: 4m +
Engine: yamaha f70 EFI
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 28
Nice looking boat.. can you still get hold of the launching wheels for the older futura ive just picked my up and would not mind getting a pair for my rig . also im trying to remove the numbers and the name that have been painted on the boat dose any one have any tips for how to do this...
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Old 04 August 2009, 11:05   #68
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some pics
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Old 04 August 2009, 11:07   #69
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Country: UK - England
Town: Canterbury
Boat name: Inflamous
Make: Ribcraft 5.3
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki DF90
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by little J View Post
Nice looking boat.. can you still get hold of the launching wheels for the older futura ive just picked my up and would not mind getting a pair for my rig . also im trying to remove the numbers that have been painted on the boat dose any one have any tips for how to do this...
I believe the current Zodiac Futura Accessories are:

Fishing Rod Holder £51.00
Lateral Navigation Lights £37.00
Launching Wheels £168.00
Bow Launching Wheels £284.00
Outboard Motor Trolley £115.00
Launching Roller £59.00
Swim Ladder £95.00
Drivers Holdall with Waterproof Chart Pocket £64.00
Futura Under Bench Bag £42.00
Single Jockey Console £624.00
Upholstered Bench on Rails Red £118.00
Double Deluxe Seat with Locker Box £380.00
Inflatable Double Seat £140.00
Bimini Hood £240.00
Cover £143.00
Cover for use with HD Pack £168.00
Lifting Sling £189.00
Crossbar Steering Kit £303.00
Side Bathing Ladder £42.00
Bench Bag £42.00
Flexible Fuel Tank 35 ltrs £260.00
Flexible Fuel Tank 70 ltrs £290.00
Double Jockey Console £1,211.00
Runners Kit (Pair) £9.00
Runners and Strap Tie Down for Floorboards £31.00
Fuel Tank Support £55.00

To remove painted on numbers or letters I know some people use Bostik M501.


Cheers

Gareth

Ribcraft 4.8 - 60hp Evinrude E-tec
Zodiac Futura Mk 2 - 50hp Yamaha (2 stroke)
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Old 06 August 2009, 11:45   #70
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Country: USA
Town: Great Lakes
Boat name: MK2C Futura 3.7
Make: Zodiac
Length: 3m +
Engine: Nissan 40hp Outboard
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by kelson View Post
I run the stainless smart tabs. They do have to have sacrificial anodes on them when run in salt water. The new plastic models might be an improvement, but I have no direct experience with them. I understand that it is a pain to move weight forward in the boat. But that is a big part of getting the Futura to pop on a plane and not have much bow rise, particularly when using an engine near the max rating. The smart tabs will help. Do the speed tubes reduce their effectiveness? Heck if I know! They don't come off so I can't say what effect they have. If I leave my tabs in the up position and start off I instantly notice the difference, so I can confidently say that they do work with speed tubes. Recognize that the tabs are all the way down when going slow. They automatically adjust up at higher speeds. The turbulent water flow maxes out off the speed tubes when you are going fast, at slow speeds it isn't significant. I didn't have a lot of trouble with the room on the transom, but I am running a MK11 so it is a bit bigger. The little metal stud or flat mushroom on your transom is for using a set of Zodiac launching wheels. My boat and motor are too big and heavy for that sort of launch. If the wheel mount is in the way you could remove it and fill the hole, but it is up higher than you will want to install the tab. My boat was bought used and has had all sorts of stuff installed on the transom in previous times. Lots of holes for stuff like a livewell pump. I sealed them up and it isn't a big deal. The first hole you drill into your clean transom may concern you, but you'll get over it.
OK... I spoke to the Smart Tabs - Nauticus Inc. (www.nauticusinc.com) upon sedning them my dimensioned photo's, boat info, approx. weight I am dealing with including myself adding to the heavy stern... they told me to get the "ST980-30" Smart Tab.

I can get them here locally for $159.99, or Online for $126 delivered.

My concerns are:
When trailering, my bunks are a bit long, will they rotate up as they ride up on the bunk?

Can I now tie down the stern using the outboard instead of the tiedown eyebolts on the transom?
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Old 06 August 2009, 15:03   #71
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Engine: Nissan 40 plus
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Posts: 269
There are lots of ways to do everything, but I will suggest that you should never tie your boat down using the motor as an attachment point. You want to avoid undue stress on the transom for sure! I use a transom saver to lessen the strain caused by the outboard leveraging on the transom. I recognize that you are proposing to strap to the engine mount that is directly bolted to the transom, but I would still vote for strapping directly to the transom at the widest point possible. I purchased my boat used and have had the wonderful opportunity to reglue all of the transom seams, so I am cautious. The trailer that the boat came with did not have bunks that were long enough to extend under the transom itself. This is another simple mistake the original owner made. I didn't move the bunks, but I did move the bow point and adjusted the center of gravity by moving the axle too. Now the transom is directly supported by the bunks as it sounds like yours are. I installed the Smart tabs with the adjusting pulley and cleat. The Tabs are out of the way when raised. I have loaded onto the trailer without remembering to raise my Tabs and they have just adjusted themselves up and haven't been damaged or dented so far, but I don't make a habit of that. When you install the tabs so they can be raised manually there is going to be a gap between the tab and the tube because you will have to leave room for the tab to clear the wide part of the tube when it's raised fully. If you adjust your tie off point on the trailer your hold down straps should fit right down between the tabs and the tubes. Obviously, if the trailer attachment point is too close to the center of the trailer the hold down strap would bear against the tab. My bunks fall inside the speed tubes, but it sure looks like you could put an eye bolt on your trailers outside rail and get the angle you need. When is anything marine related straightforward? I have really long bunks that wouldn't fit between the speed tubes and the main tubes up forward, that's why they are inside. I'm sure you will work it out when the tabs are in hand.
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Old 10 August 2009, 22:50   #72
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Country: USA
Town: Great Lakes
Boat name: MK2C Futura 3.7
Make: Zodiac
Length: 3m +
Engine: Nissan 40hp Outboard
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 19
Got the Smart Tabs Mounted.... took me some time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kelson View Post
There are lots of ways to do everything, but I will suggest that you should never tie your boat down using the motor as an attachment point. You want to avoid undue stress on the transom for sure! I use a transom saver to lessen the strain caused by the outboard leveraging on the transom. I recognize that you are proposing to strap to the engine mount that is directly bolted to the transom, but I would still vote for strapping directly to the transom at the widest point possible. I purchased my boat used and have had the wonderful opportunity to reglue all of the transom seams, so I am cautious. The trailer that the boat came with did not have bunks that were long enough to extend under the transom itself. This is another simple mistake the original owner made. I didn't move the bunks, but I did move the bow point and adjusted the center of gravity by moving the axle too. Now the transom is directly supported by the bunks as it sounds like yours are. I installed the Smart tabs with the adjusting pulley and cleat. The Tabs are out of the way when raised. I have loaded onto the trailer without remembering to raise my Tabs and they have just adjusted themselves up and haven't been damaged or dented so far, but I don't make a habit of that. When you install the tabs so they can be raised manually there is going to be a gap between the tab and the tube because you will have to leave room for the tab to clear the wide part of the tube when it's raised fully. If you adjust your tie off point on the trailer your hold down straps should fit right down between the tabs and the tubes. Obviously, if the trailer attachment point is too close to the center of the trailer the hold down strap would bear against the tab. My bunks fall inside the speed tubes, but it sure looks like you could put an eye bolt on your trailers outside rail and get the angle you need. When is anything marine related straightforward? I have really long bunks that wouldn't fit between the speed tubes and the main tubes up forward, that's why they are inside. I'm sure you will work it out when the tabs are in hand.
Got the Smart Tabs mounted... per the mfg's advice got the ST980-30's. I took some time to mount... , certainly not one hour and I am mechanically inclined. OK maybe a bit of a perfectionost which may add some time...

The tabs, if fully up for some reason.. clear the side tubes by 1 1/8" (as a precaution), so they are mounted inboard of the side tubes 1 1/8 ".

I set the tabs up so that at their lowest angle off of the hull (which is not a straight line)are 30 degrees (a maximum angle Nauticus Inc., I need the lift - bow down) The middle of top bracket = 25 degrees (optimum as a start). The top = 20 degress, would never see myself using this position.

I was a bit ticked off though, you see the brackets that mount to the tabs are non symmetrical Starboard to Port, however the top brackets that hold the struts are symm., makes no sense. It made me blow a set of holes in my transom, OK now, filled them with 3M 5200.

I am anxious to take the Zodiac out... will give a report when I do.

Kelson, I did read the trailering advice.. I greatly appreciate that. I will be tying down from the transom.... good point not going off of the outboard mount.
Thanks...
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Old 10 August 2009, 23:40   #73
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Country: USA
Town: San Diego
Make: zodiac futura mk2
Length: 4m +
Engine: Nissan 40 plus
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Posts: 269
Looks very nice! My transom sure doesn't look that good with marine tex sealing up all sorts of old holes. I can only add one comment. It is nice that your tab placement doesn't interfere with your trailer bunks. But you still might want to consider adding the pulley arrangement to raise the tabs if you beach very often. The tabs do tend to dig in. I pull mine up a lot. It all depends on your use. Nice to raise the tabs if you are backing around and manuvering in tight spaces too. The boat will back up with the tabs lowered, but not as well. I am sure you will have a great time out on the water, be sure to post some pics!
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Old 16 August 2009, 05:04   #74
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Country: Canada
Town: Vernon, BC
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supplementary tubes on 1990 Futura MK 1???

Hi All,
I'm looking at a zodiac futura MK 1 "XDC" and the owner says it has "extra tubes under the main tubes for stability".

Has anyone heard of this?

You can see the tubes in the pic attached...they're peeking out from under the main tubes, near the transom.

Thanks!
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Old 16 August 2009, 06:30   #75
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speed tubes?

These may be speed tubes?
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Old 29 May 2013, 21:02   #76
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Country: USA
Town: Newbury
Boat name: Inflatable Date II
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 40 hp F/I
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 2
Bryan: How long did the Mississippi river trip take? Did you rough it or stay in hotels etc. Interested in more info about that trip.

Ted,
Massachusetts
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Old 29 May 2013, 22:20   #77
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Country: UK - England
Town: cornwall
Boat name: nothing
Make: rib eye 430
Length: 4m +
Engine: tatsu 50
MMSI: 666
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,914
Quote:
Originally Posted by gwessels View Post
Hi All,
I'm looking at a zodiac futura MK 1 "XDC" and the owner says it has "extra tubes under the main tubes for stability".

Has anyone heard of this?

You can see the tubes in the pic attached...they're peeking out from under the main tubes, near the transom.

Thanks!
those tubes under the main tubes are what makes it a futura . The boat rises up and planes on them more like a cat than a monohull . They are often called hi jackers
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