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Old 29 December 2004, 04:52   #1
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Trailer Brakes

Iíve had enough of trailer brakes. I flush them out with fresh water as part of my routine every time the boat comes out of the water, and Iíve stripped, cleaned and greased them three times during the year. Yet having tried to move the boat yesterday the brakes are seized on, despite the handbrake being left off. I use good quality water resistant high temperature melting point Grease to lightly lubricate the adjusters and moving parts. So its another cold couple of hours stripping, cleaning, greasing etc.
The seals on the Hubs appear to keep the water out of the bearings, as they are fine.

Disc brakes would appear to be the answer. As they are a more Ďopení design they should be much easier to rinse off with the hose.

I can machine up some new hubs to take my existing wheels with mountings for discs, and can cut down the existing backing plates to bolt on brackets and callipers. That part is the easy bit.

Iím in three minds about the actuating system however.

Some American trailers such as those used for Bayliners use Hydraulic drum brakes, I could cobble together a system using the front of one of those by changing the hitch size. However the master cylinder size may not be compatible with the brake piston sizes etc.

I could mount a car master cylinder and use the existing cable to operate it.

Or as most modern cars use rear discs with cable handbrake mechanisms, my preferred route would be to keep the existing cables, and operate the callipers using the handbrake system. This appeals as I can raid a scrap yard for the complete system from a big 4X4 or something for next to nothing, and not worry about master cylinder/calliper bore sizes etc.

Iíll keep my drums for another season whilst I collect the parts and machine the bits, then fit them next winter.

Nasher.
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Old 29 December 2004, 06:45   #2
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IF you can get this problem sorted, youíll have a job for life !
Good luck
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Old 29 December 2004, 07:44   #3
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Drill holes in th drums. This is what my Land rover 101 has and it allows them to drain better. T
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Old 29 December 2004, 08:06   #4
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We had this problem alot, the partial solution we used to some effect was to back the adjuster off each it was parked up.

Clearly there is the risk here that one can drive off without any braking at all, balance this against the previous practice to get over the problem which was to completely disconnect the brakes and it seems a fair trade.

I did wonder about parking the trailer with the brake shoes in their "collapsed" position for reversing and backing off the adjuster. All of this is done using chocks ofcourse and a wheel lock!
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Old 29 December 2004, 08:33   #5
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Nasher - it may be useful to look at how Dixon-Bate do this for their rapide trailers which are available with disc brakes. Unfortunately their web site doesn't appear to give much away: http://www.dixonbate.co.uk/html/rapide_trailers.htm

You would probably also have an interesting conversation with Andy Clark at "The Bosuns Mate" on this subject http://www.bosunsmate.co.uk/ he's as passionate about the poor design of trailers as Rogue Wave!
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Old 29 December 2004, 10:11   #6
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I want new axles on my trailer. I've been thinking about using the front disk, caliper, hub & stub axle from a range rover and having the axle made up with a flange for the stub axle and bracket for the caliper. I figure RR spares are cheap enough that it doesn't matter if I have to throw out the rotating assembly every couple of seasons.
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Old 29 December 2004, 10:46   #7
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Madmat

how are you going to apply hydraulic pressure to the brakes?

Nasher.
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Old 29 December 2004, 12:11   #8
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By attaching the coupling to a master cylinder, ie use a master cylinder instead of the cables (or even a pair of master culinders since it's a 4 wheeled trailed. Dual circuit brakes woo hoo). Or getting an american hydraulic coupling with a master cylinder built in.
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Old 29 December 2004, 13:04   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon B
I did wonder about parking the trailer with the brake shoes in their "collapsed" position for reversing and backing off the adjuster. All of this is done using chocks ofcourse and a wheel lock!
I used to back my trailer into its parked position,thinking that the above theory was sound,but found the brakes stuck on when I tried to move the trailer again.I discussed this with the dealer who sold me the trailer(admiral) and he told me never to leave the brakes in the collapsed state and to always pull it forward again to re-engaage the brakes in the normal position,this seemed to work but I cannot explain why?
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Old 29 December 2004, 18:01   #10
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Nasher, been there and done that with drum brakes! I don't bother with brakes on my trailers now. I have a big big trailer with a combination of bunks and rollers whih I transport all boats on (this is braked and this never goes in to de water!)

I have a flat bed which was made up using a pair of Omega axles inclusing the hydraulic breaking system. You are welcome to bprrow it or examine it It works very well by the way!
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