Auto Reverse not working

[Jeff]

I change my bowdens every year ,,,, a bit over the top with the stainless ones, but a usual source of problems

[Sargan]

Are the stainless ones much more expensive?
Where do you source yours from ?

[Jeff]

Originally Posted by Sargan

Are the stainless ones much more expensive?
Where do you source yours from ?

I only change annually because of a long haul across Europe each summer and don't want any issues at all. I also replace my 'sealed for life' bearings at least every 2

The stainless cables should be good for 2-3 years I suspect.

My last purchases were here

ALKO Brake Shoes, Cables & Parts - PIK Trailers

but also check :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...ables&_sacat=0

[Sargan]

Thanks will try them.

[paintman]

Been working at the caravan place today & had a chat with the Techs. If the brakes are adjusted as you would a car handbrake then there will be insufficient room in the drum for the collapsing shoe to do so & you'll have the problem you've got. Apparently it's a very common issue.

To correctly adjust Al-Ko auto reverse brakes:
1. Safely jack up & support the trailer, using chocks to stop it rolling as you are going to be disconnecting the cables from the equaliser.
2. Disconnect the equaliser end of a cable from the equaliser - I believe these may look like a mushroom (they did on the caravan he was showing me on).
3. Ensure the shoes are centred in the hub & the shoes are in normal running position.
4. Adjust the shoes with their adjuster until the drum stops & then back the adjuster off until the drum is free to rotate. Do NOT rotate the drum backwards during any part of the operation.
5. Go back to the equaliser end of the cable. Look at where the inner cable enters the outer & mark the cable at that point - he suggests wax crayon or similar.
6. Grip the mushroom & pull so the shoes are applied - he has a homemade tool that looks like a strong fork with a handle.
7. Whilst holding the cable out measure the distance between your original mark and where the cable enters the outer. This must be between 5 and 8mm.
8. If not let go of the cable & adjust the shoes by using their adjuster. Pull the cable & recheck the distance. Repeat until you have the correct measurement.
9. Repeat for the other units.
10. Then slacken off the equaliser rod & reconnect the mushrooms to the equaliser. There must be play - as in the rod must not be pulling on the cables with the handbrake off - so a small amount of slack is necessary & you may need to adjust the equaliser.

Hopefully this is the solution to your problem.

[Jeff]

Originally Posted by paintman

Been working at the caravan place today & had a chat with the Techs. If the brakes are adjusted as you would a car handbrake then there will be insufficient room in the drum for the collapsing shoe to do so & you'll have the problem you've got. Apparently it's a very common issue.

To correctly adjust Al-Ko auto reverse brakes:
1. Safely jack up & support the trailer, using chocks to stop it rolling as you are going to be disconnecting the cables from the equaliser.
2. Disconnect the equaliser end of a cable from the equaliser - I believe these will look like a mushroom
3. Ensure the shoes are centred in the hub & the shoes are in normal running position.
4. Adjust the shoes with their adjuster until the drum stops & then back the adjuster off until the drum is free to rotate. Do NOT rotate the drum backwards during any part of the operation.
5. Go back to the equaliser end of the cable. Look at where the inner cable enters the outer & mark the cable at that point - he suggests wax crayon or similar.
6. Grip the mushroom & pull so the shoes are applied - he has a homemade tool that looks like a strong fork with a handle.
7. Whilst holding the cable out measure the distance between your original mark and where the cable enters the outer. This must be between 5 and 8mm.
8. If not let go of the cable & adjust the shoes by using their adjuster. Pull the cable & recheck the distance. Repeat until you have the correct measurement.
9. Repeat for the other units.
10. Then slacken off the equaliser rod & reconnect the mushrooms. There must be play - as in the rod must not be pulling on the cables with the handbrake off - so a small amount of slack is necessary.

Hopefully this is the solution to your problem.

http://www.al-ko.co.uk/edit/files/ha...dbookwhite.pdf


I dont think there should be any slack in the rod - just enough clearance of the shoes in the drums

[Bigplumbs]

Originally Posted by paintman

Been working at the caravan place today & had a chat with the Techs. If the brakes are adjusted as you would a car handbrake then there will be insufficient room in the drum for the collapsing shoe to do so & you'll have the problem you've got. Apparently it's a very common issue.

To correctly adjust Al-Ko auto reverse brakes:
1. Safely jack up & support the trailer, using chocks to stop it rolling as you are going to be disconnecting the cables from the equaliser.
2. Disconnect the equaliser end of a cable from the equaliser - I believe these may look like a mushroom (they did on the caravan he was showing me on).
3. Ensure the shoes are centred in the hub & the shoes are in normal running position.
4. Adjust the shoes with their adjuster until the drum stops & then back the adjuster off until the drum is free to rotate. Do NOT rotate the drum backwards during any part of the operation.
5. Go back to the equaliser end of the cable. Look at where the inner cable enters the outer & mark the cable at that point - he suggests wax crayon or similar.
6. Grip the mushroom & pull so the shoes are applied - he has a homemade tool that looks like a strong fork with a handle.
7. Whilst holding the cable out measure the distance between your original mark and where the cable enters the outer. This must be between 5 and 8mm.
8. If not let go of the cable & adjust the shoes by using their adjuster. Pull the cable & recheck the distance. Repeat until you have the correct measurement.
9. Repeat for the other units.
10. Then slacken off the equaliser rod & reconnect the mushrooms to the equaliser. There must be play - as in the rod must not be pulling on the cables with the handbrake off - so a small amount of slack is necessary & you may need to adjust the equaliser.

Hopefully this is the solution to your problem.

Sounds very useful. I could not help feeling that my Knot brakes were easier to set once replaced

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by paintman

Been working at the caravan place today & had a chat with the Techs. If the brakes are adjusted as you would a car handbrake then there will be insufficient room in the drum for the collapsing shoe to do so & you'll have the problem you've got. Apparently it's a very common issue.

To correctly adjust Al-Ko auto reverse brakes:
1. Safely jack up & support the trailer, using chocks to stop it rolling as you are going to be disconnecting the cables from the equaliser.
2. Disconnect the equaliser end of a cable from the equaliser - I believe these may look like a mushroom (they did on the caravan he was showing me on).
3. Ensure the shoes are centred in the hub & the shoes are in normal running position.
4. Adjust the shoes with their adjuster until the drum stops & then back the adjuster off until the drum is free to rotate. Do NOT rotate the drum backwards during any part of the operation.
5. Go back to the equaliser end of the cable. Look at where the inner cable enters the outer & mark the cable at that point - he suggests wax crayon or similar.
6. Grip the mushroom & pull so the shoes are applied - he has a homemade tool that looks like a strong fork with a handle.
7. Whilst holding the cable out measure the distance between your original mark and where the cable enters the outer. This must be between 5 and 8mm.
8. If not let go of the cable & adjust the shoes by using their adjuster. Pull the cable & recheck the distance. Repeat until you have the correct measurement.
9. Repeat for the other units.
10. Then slacken off the equaliser rod & reconnect the mushrooms to the equaliser. There must be play - as in the rod must not be pulling on the cables with the handbrake off - so a small amount of slack is necessary & you may need to adjust the equaliser.

Hopefully this is the solution to your problem.

Chances are, the adjusters will be seized & they are a bitch to free off, its a strip down & brute force job to get them moving.

[Sargan]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Chances are, the adjusters will be seized & they are a bitch to free off, its a strip down & brute force job to get them moving.

Adjusters fully free as I completely strip & clean, then grease and releasable each service. They are a bitch to get to on the port side.



Thanks for description (and for asking Q) .... to be honest that is almost exactly the sequence I followed .... with exception that Indespension do not say to undo the compensator (to release mushroom heads) ....

When I get newBowden cables I'll try this set up.


Only real difference, is that Indespension instructions were to tighten up brakes until locked, then back off until - when you give the wheel a spin ... it will rotate 1.5 turns before stopping .. i.e, some drag not fully clear.


They do say check for 5-8mm play in cable - which I did have.



Interesting that for point 10 - Indespension & Alko say zero clearance, but several people advise to put in clearance.




Picking up new Bowden cables tomorrow - so will fit these on Friday.
Then will grease the actuators (spreaders) at same time.

[Sargan]

Originally Posted by Jeff

I dont think there should be any slack in the rod - just enough clearance of the shoes in the drums

That is what it says in AlKo tech paper and the Indespension manual.