Al-Ko brake tip

[Sargan]

If you service your own trailer 4 tips for you.


I have an SBS trailer which uses Al-Ko brakes, which in my opinion are a poor design, prone to corrosion, and unsuited to marine trailers.

For probably 5 decades trailer manufacturers have used rod-operated overrun auto-reverse brakes; while acceptable for caravans, certainly do not respond well to being submerged in salt-water.

Corrosion of all parts is very rapid and often total de-lamination of brake shoes, on the latter Al-Ko shoes are very susceptible to this, and when repeated failures were reported Al-Ko said they should not be submerged in salt water! (On marine trailers)
3rd party shoes from Taunton Trailers are much better quality, and cheaper.


The US (and others) have moved to hydraulic brakes, electric operated brakes (arrrrgh) and even stainless steel disc brakes.
UK trailer manufacturers have yet to join the 21st Century.

Anyway the 4 tips


#1 From new

Paint the back plate front & rear, and metallic part of shoes & drum with 2-part epoxy paint. Obviously not putting paint on stub axle mating surfaces, or where friction shoes touch the drum.
As well as enhancing protection, makes annual clean for service much easier.





#2 Masking Tape

When reassembling the brakes first put a layer of masking tape on the friction surfaces of the shoes, as you won’t keep them clean otherwise.


#3 Fitting the brake shoe spring retaining clips (plates)

I have had many trailers with Al-Ko brakes and they were all difficult to install the plate spring on one side …. This is the side which is obstructed by the suspension swing arm. On the SBS trailers, this is very difficult, as you cannot even get a finger between the gap.

Here is a method I figured out that works.

1.use a wood work clamp, one part behind the swing arm, the other on the face of the spring . Line spring so the ‘hook’ faces vertically upwards.







2.Use a telescopic magnet to hold the plate ‘end on’

Position into place from above, then slowly release clamp, closing Spring hook into the appropriate holes in the plate.
Using a needle nose pliers, at the face of spring grab the central rod and rotate 1/4 turn to put sori g plate into correct location (horseshoe facing out)
This may sound convoluted but takes less than 3 mins …. Having spent a great deal of time trying to get plate on otherwise this is very quick, and saves a lot of swearing as you keep having to find & pick the clip up.




#4 Lanoguard
once all is assembled spray everything with a light mist of Lanoguard, both front and back of the brake plate, leave it a few minutes then peel the masking tape off the shoes, I apply film of Lanoguard on stub axle and bearing mating face, but none when shoes touch the drum.

Also coat outside of the drum when refitted (and the metal part of wheels)

https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/


Just a warning note, if you have Al-Ko hubs with parallel sealed bearings rather than pre-load taper roller bearings …. Be prepared.
The one-shot flange nuts must not be reused, and to tighten then back up you need a torque wrench at 290 Nm, that is a very substantial force, way above the torque wrench that most will have.

In my case I have a suitable torque wrench, and have to add a 4’ length of steel tubing to allow me to apply enough force.

[paintman]

The issue is corrosion forming between the brake lining material & the shoe overcoming the adhesive.
Knott shoes (mine) have the same issue.

The old fashioned way of riveting the lining to the shoes would have been a much better way of doing it for stuff that gets dunked.

[Sargan]

Originally Posted by paintman

The issue is corrosion forming between the brake lining material & the shoe overcoming the adhesive.
Knott shoes (mine) have the same issue.

The old fashioned way of riveting the lining to the shoes would have been a much better way of doing it for stuff that gets dunked.

There is a separate post on the delamination of the linings, this is a different topic.

[paintman]

Originally Posted by Sargan

[B]
Corrosion of all parts is very rapid and often total de-lamination of brake shoes, on the latter Al-Ko shoes are very susceptible to this, and when repeated failures were reported Al-Ko said they should not be submerged in salt water! (On marine trailers)
3rd party shoes from Taunton Trailers are much better quality, and cheaper.

I do apologise.
I was simply responding to this paragraph in your post.

[Sargan]

OK .. that was dealt with in a sepearte post, mentioned here was that Taunton sourced items lasted better than AlKo.

[Pikey Dave]

…or buy axles with WAP disc brakes & oil immersed bearings

[Sargan]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

…or buy axles with WAP disc brakes & oil immersed bearings

SBS said they could offer stainless steel disk brakes - but would add at least £1500 to cost of trailer.

[Easedalenovice]

Originally Posted by Sargan

SBS said they could offer stainless steel disk brakes - but would add at least £1500 to cost of trailer.

Are those legal in the U.K.

[Sargan]

Originally Posted by Easedalenovice

Are those legal in the U.K.

I assume so as SBS offered to fit them, guess there must be a separate mechanical brake to provide handbrake.

UK trailer design is Archaic, rod operated brakes, see so many boats where brakes have been removed as rusted up. No checking unless you are in an accident.

Was in discussion with a trailer engineer, he had designed a ‘steering’ concept for twin axle trailers …. If you have one you know they don’t like turning while reversing, one set of tyres ‘crab’ causing a lot of friction.
He had built a hub that allowed read axle wheels to provide a limited amount of ‘swivel’ providing a self-steering axle.
Fully tested, but trailer company did not take it into production.

I had 2 US trailers, they had drum brakes, but hydraulically operated.
No handbrake, which seems so strange. The larger diameter wheels rolled easier than smaller UK trailer wheels.
I did like the folding draw-bar, made storage length about 1m shorter.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Sargan

SBS said they could offer stainless steel disk brakes - but would add at least £1500 to cost of trailer.

TBF £1500 on the cost of the trailer isn't the end of the world. My trailer is getting on for 8 years old. Still on the original bearings & brakes. I'd have spent close to £1500 on maintenance if they had been conventional hubs , and had all the associated grief. The back plates would probably be rotten now & getting ready for a complete overhaul. I wouldn't go back to a conventional setup, having seen the light.

[Sargan]

It’s cost though.

SBS trailer as is costs £5,800, add another £1,500 on top is a big ask (for me anyway)

It’s just frustrating, Al-Ko admit their hubs & brakes don’t suit marine environment, it just needs one major manufacturer to move to a better design … and the others will follow.

Rod operated overrun brakes may be fine for a caravan, but not good for dunking in salt water. They won’t even warranty items brakes if immersed in water.

After only a few launchesU-bolts start rusting as only electroplated, as do all the brake components.
Trailers are made with design that is now 5 decades old …. Needs better.

[ollyit]

superb writeup , many thanks for this

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by Sargan

It’s cost though.



SBS trailer as is costs £5,800, add another £1,500 on top is a big ask (for me anyway)



It’s just frustrating, Al-Ko admit their hubs & brakes don’t suit marine environment, it just needs one major manufacturer to move to a better design … and the others will follow.



Rod operated overrun brakes may be fine for a caravan, but not good for dunking in salt water. They won’t even warranty items brakes if immersed in water.



After only a few launchesU-bolts start rusting as only electroplated, as do all the brake components.

Trailers are made with design that is now 5 decades old …. Needs better.

I think the only realistic option is frequent maintenance & preventative stuff like you suggested at the start, service grease and touch up at the end of every season so its not sat rotting away over winter & be prepared to change shoes every 2-3 years. Personally I fit the cheapest replacement shoes & bearings I can find, its corrosion that kills everything & corrosion doesn't differentiate between cheap or expensive. I prefer taper bearings and bearing buddies to sealed for life bearings that you can't inspect, easy & cheap to change & you can repack with grease when required. Even disk brakes have their issues stainless disks might not rust but calipers will likely be ally or cast which will sieze in time unless meticulously looked after, many old us trailers also have brakes disconnected because of siezed calipers or master cylinders. No way I'd add 1500 to the cost of a trailer in the hope its going to last longer I'd rather keep the money in the bank & replace the complete axles when they are rusted beyond repair which is usually 10+ years.
The key is maintenance & more maintenance its just one of the chores of boat ownership. Look at it this way servicing a trailer takes no longer than antifouling every year & costs far less than a marina berth.

[Orwell boy]

Just changed my Snipe axle (1500kg) for 1100 mile trip for Easdale as trailer 2015 was new to me (and unknown ) and fitted new 14 " wheels to help movement £470 axle collected off the shelf was very cheap maintainance for an 8 year old trailer ,most important thing is to support the rubbers in the suspension as they sag with weight and variable temperatures ,no need for axle stands ,just cut pieces of 4x2 and push them under to support axle (not hold it off the ground) and when you go boating just hitch and drive forward ,put them back when you get home ,i am very lucky to launch from a steep slipway so never immerse my brakes in normal launches

[Sargan]

Just an update - the idea of changing shoes every 2-3 years would be good - they are only lasting 1 season.

AlKo shoes delaminate - I know why, its water gets under friction pad rust and friction lining comes off.
The issue is this, is sold as a marine trailer and to have the manufacturer of brakes say it will not suit immersion is absurd!
Last year boat only launched 7 times, each time hubs flushed with fresh water after each time trailer is in the water - and they still fail.

Did pre-service check yesterday to and found 3 delaminated shoes

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by Sargan

Just an update - the idea of changing shoes every 2-3 years would be good - they are only lasting 1 season.

AlKo shoes delaminate - I know why, its water gets under friction pad rust and friction lining comes off.
The issue is this, is sold as a marine trailer and to have the manufacturer of brakes say it will not suit immersion is absurd!
Last year boat only launched 7 times, each time hubs flushed with fresh water after each time trailer is in the water - and they still fail.

Did pre-service check yesterday to and found 3 delaminated shoes

Are you flushing when you get home or at the slipway? Its best done at the slip so they dry out with the ride home, if your doing it at home your maybe making things worse. I recently serviced 2 trailers one had stood 5 years & the other 18 months, both used in salt water & never flushed both sets of shoes were re used. Something odd if yours are failing so quick

[Easedalenovice]

Originally Posted by Sargan

Just an update - the idea of changing shoes every 2-3 years would be good - they are only lasting 1 season.

AlKo shoes delaminate - I know why, its water gets under friction pad rust and friction lining comes off.
The issue is this, is sold as a marine trailer and to have the manufacturer of brakes say it will not suit immersion is absurd!
Last year boat only launched 7 times, each time hubs flushed with fresh water after each time trailer is in the water - and they still fail.

Did pre-service check yesterday to and found 3 delaminated shoes

You will indeed find that these types of shoes do delaminate at a horrible rate. If the shoe delaminates in use they will often jam up the brake system and can easily cause the hubs to overhead, melt the grease in the bearings and the bearings go. I have trailered several boats many miles and because of this issue I will only now tow unbraked trailers.

These types of brakes also seem to seize on with the least bit of corrosion and the same overheating occurs. To be honest the design for boat trailers that are submersed is not fit for porpose in my opinion

[Sargan]

Originally Posted by beamishken

Are you flushing when you get home or at the slipway? Its best done at the slip so they dry out with the ride home,

It is flushed within 2 mins of coming out of the water - I have a container of water and a pump in the car, especially for this.
Previously shoes would be good for 6-7 years then need changing due to friction lining wearing down.
On this trailer, they keep failing early life and linings coming off.

[Sargan]

Originally Posted by Easedalenovice

YTo be honest the design for boat trailers that are submersed is not fit for porpose in my opinion

I'd agree trailers are 40 years behind the time.
They should have disc brakes and better corrosion resistance.

[Easedalenovice]

Originally Posted by Sargan

I'd agree trailers are 40 years behind the time.
They should have disc brakes and better corrosion resistance.

The is a range of Stainless trailers that are just that but I feel they are well over priced.

https://vanclaes.com/en/standard-boa...ers/c-384.html