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Old 15 February 2016, 08:29   #11
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>>>what do they deem competent it might be me but if there's a way out!

Yes indeed. I know I'm competent... ha ha... but proving it in a warranty fight is another thing.

The local Suzuki dealer are talking about 45 for the 20hr post running-in service and 100 for a yearly. OK so I usually try for best value and it's 70+ a year more than DIY but overall SIBs are so cheap to own/run in the scheme of life it's nothing.

Edit: As PD says the meaning of competent could be elevated to you needing to be a dealer to meet the requirements. For example I ran my own motor engineers business for near on 20yrs so I'm familiar with far more complex machinery but it could be shown I had no experience of EFI outboards or the brand so... sorry mate claim rejected.

Not worth faffing about to risk that for a just 70/yr saved.
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Old 15 February 2016, 09:21   #12
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to be honest David you will probably do a better job yourself but that doesn't cut for them the one thing for me is they should stick it on the computer and do extensive checks on first service according to the service manual to make sure all set up OK so it puts it on them and for 70 as you say peace of mind.
on my 90 hp had it serviced till the 5 year then did it myself took the gearbox off to fit a new impeller no o-ring fitted to the pump just sikoflex really peed off.

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Old 15 February 2016, 11:07   #13
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I have come to realise that the professional service may not be all that professional.
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Old 15 February 2016, 11:15   #14
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I run a Susi DF20AC long shaft on my 4.2 Aerotec fantastic engine very economical,quiet and powerful,still very splashy over the transom though at full chat
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Old 15 February 2016, 11:17   #15
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Originally Posted by two stroke mick View Post
I have come to realise that the professional service may not be all that professional.
totally agree mick sorry to say take your car in and you can bet the lad gets to practice on it i am all for learning but not at my expense
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Old 15 February 2016, 11:25   #16
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I run a Susi DF20AC long shaft on my 4.2 Aerotec fantastic engine very economical,quiet and powerful,still very splashy over the transom though at full chat
That splash seems to be common with the Aerotec not common to a specific engine interesting ?
Fenlander will be along soon for performance figures
Interestingly I googled aerotec on google images there's a boat on there with a trim tab affair right across the transom to prevent splash
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Old 18 February 2016, 15:36   #17
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Well finally family life allowed a window to get down the dealers and look at the Suzuki DF20 today.

They only had a longshaft/no tiller/remotes version in stock but it gave me the chance to examine the model type.

Happy with the look and quality of everything but as a lifetime pre-2006 outboard owner need to get my head round so much use of plastics compared to the tank-like 2-strokes of old.

Looking at it in the flesh and talking to the shop guy getting quite keen on the idea of a no-carb fuel injection 4-stroke... I reckon there is far less opportunity for "stale" fuel and ethanol in the fuel to trouble this system compared with a multi-passaged carb.

The other issue is the very bulky nature of the hood and powerhead panels. Compared to my Mercury 15hp 2-stroke the hood is 2" wider, 1.5" taller and a whole 8" deeper back to front! This will look a bit more bloaty mounted on the Aerotec but more important might just affect the very particular way we have to pack it into the car loadspace surrounded by other kit bearing in mind it has to lie flat on one side which isn't how we normally transport the outboard.

Probably will buy one but just going to think it through for 24hrs before they get our cash.
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Old 19 February 2016, 03:25   #18
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good that you have got round to having a look and your right bulkier than the two stroke lot more to the engine though i was surprised when i got the 25 its a big as the old 40 mariner i had in size but it looks OK on my 365.lots of plastic yes the 90 i had was the same but its very durable bends easy not like the old cowls which cracked and they have to get the weight down some how.
fuel wise i just treat mine every year and in my 11 years of owning a four stroke no problems handy if you have a petrol car to put what you dont use in it.

packing was always going to be an issue if it were me i would adopt the gurnard method put the engine on a sack barrow or make a wood frame to sit it up right instead of on its side, i traveled up from Portsmouth with mine on its side didn't care for it at leaste if on a frame it will have the normal point of contact the clamp plus one for the leg bottom.
pics as a comparison.
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Old 19 February 2016, 12:03   #19
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Thanks Jeff. Travelling it needs a bit of thought. My estate car isn't tall enough in the loadspace to have it upright. Because it can only lie on a specific side then if on a sack truck type thing then the truck wold need to be large enough for the outboard to pivot on its steering while on the truck to be on its side in the required manner.

The dealer had a lateral thought to this. In discussing our needs he realised we were only pushed for space on our two week Scottish jaunts so he wondered if I would be happy to drain the oil off on the to/fro trips... that's doable I reckon then it can go any way round in the car.

I'd also be very pleased to hear from someone with the 20 to know what prop pitch it shipped with. Even Suzuki say you can't be sure as they are fitted with props somewhat at random in the factory. I mention it as I've seen a few posts other places about them hitting the rev limiter on the supplied prop. I think they can have a 9, 10 or 11" and I'd have thought a 10" best as my 15hp has a 9".
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Old 19 February 2016, 13:21   #20
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So if the engine rests on the clamps starter cord on the floor not enough height in your car then that's a shame.draining oil could work especially if you time it with a service get them not to fill with oil and you do it when you get there bit of a faff but doable.
Prop wise been there I spoke direct to Suzuki because of all the variables and there are lots they carnt give a definitive answer best is to get the engine see what's fitted and go from there it will be somewhere near just will need a fine tune working on the 150-200 lose /gain on 1 inch of pitch, with the lighter boat your running if you pitch up too far it might not be that crucial, OMO but I am going to go with this prop get it run in do some trials then buy a spare prop and go up in pitch so I can have a crusing prop as I did with my rib and a spare for piece of mind.
M Thornton has a 4.2 with a 20 you won't be far wrong following him only 400 MM length difference I take it shaft length is the same good starting point
Props for yours 7,8,9,10,11 on mine 10/14 x 11 for info

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