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Old 01 March 2016, 16:32   #41
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Spy-sea-one
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Me too it might not be worth the hassle for a few quid

Cheers
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Old 01 March 2016, 16:34   #42
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The belt is about £20 and the job is very easy with basic-med engine workshop tools. Happily do it myself.
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Old 01 March 2016, 16:46   #43
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Country: UK - England
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So you will be looking at an hour to do @£45 an hour + £20 + vat not going to bust the bank I live near international marine supplies so will have a cupa with David who owns it and have a chat about fishing while it's done
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Old 01 March 2016, 16:51   #44
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Country: UK - England
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Yep at 1 x £45 labour hardly worth resisting the dealer... just that I've heard silly money for outboard service/repair charges from folks with new motors... mostly larger ones though.
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Old 01 March 2016, 18:38   #45
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When I bought the charging kit it was a hour job charge was £45 but the mechanic was busy so I did it myself no guarantee issues doing that guess is you carnt get it wrong plug and play as it were.
Out of interest I just had a look on YouTube for changing a timing belt ok on o Honda 90 but good enough hardest thing undoing the crank bolt 181N so you need the crank holding tool otherwise easy.
Cheers
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Old 02 March 2016, 08:15   #46
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Country: UK - England
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Jeff you'll be pleased when this engine finally arrives and I can stop the questions... but...

Assuming they would be similar between 20-25hp how did the charge kit terminate? Some sort of flying lead or a socket in purpose built place on the lower cowling?

I see the kit for mine is available for £88 and at that may be worth it.
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Old 02 March 2016, 11:12   #47
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Country: UK - England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
Jeff you'll be pleased when this engine finally arrives and I can stop the questions... but...

Assuming they would be similar between 20-25hp how did the charge kit terminate? Some sort of flying lead or a socket in purpose built place on the lower cowling?

I see the kit for mine is available for £88 and at that may be worth it.
ask away David takes me away from work no probs
when you get the kit it has a step by step guide very easy.
you get a rectifier with a mount and a fused wiring loom that is just pull out the blanks and push connectors in tie wraps the lot.
the only termination you have is the two wires to your battery from the end of the loom i fitted mine with two bullet connectors staggered and insulated with amalgamation tape and electrical tape but you could get a connector from RS supplies if you wish it all clips back in where it came from as factory fit very neat when i fitted the hour meter i ran the wire the same route for neatness.


cheers
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Old 02 March 2016, 11:23   #48
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Country: UK - England
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>>>the only termination you have is the two wires to your battery from the end of the loom

Thanks.

So is this a flying lead that needs tying up round the outboard when removing at the end of the day or is there a power socket that fits to the outboard as the disconnect point?
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Old 02 March 2016, 11:46   #49
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Country: UK - England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
>>>the only termination you have is the two wires to your battery from the end of the loom

Thanks.

So is this a flying lead that needs tying up round the outboard when removing at the end of the day or is there a power socket that fits to the outboard as the disconnect point?
good point you have to be mobile. at the front of the engine at the side of the warning lights there's a rubber gromit best for your application is to have a waterproof plug socket female fitted in there at least 20 amp then male on to cable to the battery through an isolation switch just in case you drop it on to a wet floor it will look real neat.
no reason why you couldn't do it with a cigar lighter socket as long as its got a bung when not in use, there's one in the force 4 catalog part 170029 £39.95 pricey but 40A waterproof plug and socket there is others but only 10A rated your running up to 14A

cheers
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Old 02 March 2016, 12:05   #50
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just had a look at mine thinking roll the cable up and fit in side engine cowl but there's not a lot of room in the 25 i would wait till you get it and have a look for the best option just have to be mindful of the costs racking up £20-£30 here and there and simple less connections the better.
i can send you a copy of my installation instructions if you want just PM me your address and i will post them out to you.


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Old 02 March 2016, 14:05   #51
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Country: UK - England
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some pics of the two rectifiers and space around for cables
also front shot of warning lights and cable going in from battery
cheers
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Old 02 March 2016, 14:58   #52
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Many thanks for the pics and info offer.

My service manual describes with images pretty well every aspect of remove/fit on the charge components but doesn't mention how the cable exits the "control panel" bit of the lower cowling.

Here is an image of the charge kit for mine.

http://static.1000size.ru/middle/ust...ter_637106.jpg

On the grey leads there are plug/socket connectors and I'd hoped the socket mounted on the front panel then it would be an easy disconnect with the plug on a lead that could be wound up with the battery when packing away. Perhaps wait until the outboard is here in front of me before I order.
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Old 02 March 2016, 15:56   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
Many thanks for the pics and info offer.

My service manual describes with images pretty well every aspect of remove/fit on the charge components but doesn't mention how the cable exits the "control panel" bit of the lower cowling.

Here is an image of the charge kit for mine.

http://static.1000size.ru/middle/ust...ter_637106.jpg

On the grey leads there are plug/socket connectors and I'd hoped the socket mounted on the front panel then it would be an easy disconnect with the plug on a lead that could be wound up with the battery when packing away. Perhaps wait until the outboard is here in front of me before I order.
I would wait yours a little different to mine it says exit via the gromit shows you how and because I have hard wired mine keeping the cable similar to the fuel line in terms of position and slewing it worked best.i would think a socket will work best for you but you will sort when the motor comes

Cheers
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Old 02 March 2016, 15:57   #54
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Fenlander, you should have got the Honda, it's got a 12v 12A charging output already, they even give you the battery cable ;-)
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Old 02 March 2016, 17:39   #55
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>>>you should have got the Honda, it's got a 12v 12A charging output already

Now then don't start!

Yep must wait until it arrives just in case it turns out to have it fitted anyway (that would be in error I guess but odd things happen).
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Old 02 March 2016, 17:46   #56
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Ha... Just getting in early because I was considering same engine and I await your glowing appraisal of your new motor which may or may not affect my thoughts on my own choice ...

(I'm very happy with my motor and wouldn't notice the difference as a noobie anyway so I'll shut up now ;-)
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Old 02 March 2016, 17:55   #57
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Do you know I reckon there won't be anything in it performance wise... or reliability... or fuel usage give or take a few pence on a day out... it's just as a stand alone purchase they held their already discounted online prices so the Honda was £125 extra.

But if you add in the charge coil to the Suzuki at £90ish they're getting pretty close.
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Old 02 March 2016, 18:10   #58
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I can feel a day out brewing in the coming months eat my spray!
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Old 02 March 2016, 19:09   #59
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>>>eat my spray!

For anyone following an Aerotec... and even sometimes for crew... that's a given!!
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Old 02 March 2016, 22:31   #60
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Wet or dry I'll put any speed advantage down to the Aerotec over Honwave rather than Honda over Suzuki then...
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