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Old 20 October 2012, 04:10   #1
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Winterising a RIB

Hello,
We are coming to the last trip out on our rib of it's first season after owning a smaller tender for a few years before. It is a new 4.2m rib with an Evinrude 50hp engine. I was wondering what else I need to do to the rib to make it as easy as possible to get it going next season. All I know what to do is how to winterise the engine from the manual but that seems pretty basic, any responses would be great
Charlie
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Old 20 October 2012, 04:30   #2
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spray lectrics with wd40. grease up a little the movings parts on trailer/engine where applicable.
spray trailer all over with wd40.
removed battery and put in garage.
pop cover on rib and uncover next season.
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Old 20 October 2012, 10:57   #3
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Fuel stabilized and run into the fuel system? Anti-freeze run through motor? LU down so it drains? Drain plug out and bow up so the boat drains?

Kind of depends on if you're in a freezing area (above, 2 and 3.)

Jacking the trailer up and getting the tires off the ground will help with tire longevity.

jky
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Old 20 October 2012, 11:49   #4
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Duck oil is better than WD40 which tends to dry up.
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Old 20 October 2012, 12:51   #5
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Petrol tank

Hi guys I'm in a similar situation first outboard does the fuel tank need to be full ? And when you run anti freeze through what's the best antifreze to use and how much ?
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Old 20 October 2012, 14:39   #6
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Why run anti freeze in your obm?
it all runs out the leg water intakes.???
I have never ran anti freeze in and never neeeded to add any fuel stabaliser.

the longest my boat was out of the water for was 2.5 years, no anti freeze no fuel stabaliser.. and it started first time still does.
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Old 20 October 2012, 15:24   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jezza2011
Why run anti freeze in your obm?
it all runs out the leg water intakes.???
I have never ran anti freeze in and never neeeded to add any fuel stabaliser.

the longest my boat was out of the water for was 2.5 years, no anti freeze no fuel stabaliser.. and it started first time still does.
Some people run antifreeze through as an anti corrosion inhibiter as much as anything else .
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Old 20 October 2012, 20:43   #8
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Why run anti freeze in your obm?
it all runs out the leg water intakes.???
Do you really think *all* the water drains from the motor? If you live in a hard freeze climate, any residual water in the motor or the leg can freeze and cause expansion cracking of whatever it's contained in. Anti-freeze prevents that problem (well, mostly. You still want to keep the leg down to prevent rainwater from pooling in the exhaust hub and freezing.)

Quote:
the longest my boat was out of the water for was 2.5 years, no anti freeze no fuel stabaliser.. and it started first time still does.
Up until it doesn't, anyway. Winterization is proactive prevention of problems. If you don't do it and don't have problems, great. If you do and don't have problems, still great. If you don't and end up with problems, well...


jky
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Old 21 October 2012, 02:31   #9
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Thanks you all for all the replies,

Firstly I must agree that it seems logical that all the anti freeze will just run out of the motor instantly, secondly the boat and engine will be in garage under cover so I think I will leave the antifreeze and also fuel stabiliser. Would it be better to run as much fuel out of the tank as possible or have a full tank??
Thanks, charlie
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Old 21 October 2012, 02:53   #10
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wntrization

Quote:
Originally Posted by jezza2011 View Post
Why run anti freeze in your obm?
it all runs out the leg water intakes.???
I have never ran anti freeze in and never neeeded to add any fuel stabaliser.
.
Inboard or outboard tanks?

[QUOTE=jezza2011;494997the longest my boat was out of the water for was 2.5 years, no anti freeze no fuel stabaliser.. and it started first time still does.[/QUOTE]

I take it the fuel was also 2.5 years old, I'm staggered that it was not stale and actually sparked up.
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Old 21 October 2012, 04:43   #11
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[QUOTE=jezza2011;494997the longest my boat was out of the water for was 2.5 years, no anti freeze no fuel stabaliser.. and it started first time still does.[/QUOTE]

2x quicksilver tanks under the console with about 1/2 to 1/3 of a tank.

I take it the fuel was also 2.5 years old, I'm staggered that it was not stale and actually sparked up.[/QUOTE]

Well try storing some fuel and pop a match to it. its going to go boom.

I totally agree in countries that have high ethanol content to their fuels then yep you need something to stop the ethanol evaportaing as its more volatile than petrol but here its not totally nessesary. but thats just my opinion.
Having had experience of old classic cars sitting for months we never put anything in the tanks.
just made sure the batteries were good to go and turn the key.
like the obm never had any issues.

i do admit 2.5 years was a very very long to time to leave the fuel but it was as it turns out good. Poured the fuel into 1 tank and went round Howth ROI.

but again this was a 1991 3 carb 75hp mariner marathon mota so strong as old boots.
a modern efi engine my not be too happy.

as for anti freeze well there is nothing the manual for that and the dealers never as far as I know do that to the engines.

:-)
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Old 22 October 2012, 16:33   #12
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Antifreze

Hi guys can anyone tell me how much anti freeze a yamaha 115 will need roughly ? Is it just standard car anti freeze?
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Old 23 October 2012, 02:31   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajm81
Hi guys can anyone tell me how much anti freeze a yamaha 115 will need roughly ? Is it just standard car anti freeze?
The outboard will drain down so need for anti freeze, but if a matter if course 5 litres will be enough to do a 50/50 mix of water. Yes normal car stuff
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Old 23 October 2012, 03:04   #14
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In 20+ years of owning boats I've never run antifreeze through for winter storage, & we've had -15C up here in the frozen north. If it's an Etec, it will self winterise, just follow the instructions in the owners manual. Wash the powerhead with a low pressure hose & let the water run down inside the cowls to flush out the salt. I always add Evinrude 2+4 conditioner to the tanks & fill them to the brim for winter. Put the battery (ies) on a good charger (eg Cetek) & leave them on float through the winter. Make sure the trailer is WELL rinsed, including the hitch, brake drums & inside the box sections if you can get to them. Check the tyre pressures, if poss block up the trailer on axle stands or wooden blocks to take the weight off the tyres. Light the fire, pour a dram, get the dog in & settle down for the winter. Plan next years trips & spend the next few months talking bollix on Ribnet.
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Old 23 October 2012, 03:09   #15
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[QUOTE=jezza2011;494884]spray lectrics with wd40.[QUOTE]

I've always been told not to spray WD40 on Electrics especially on the connectors and rubber boots found on the wiring within the engine, because it eats away at it.

Can anyone confirm? Is there some alternative or something better than one can use?

I had once been advised that if I did spray engine with WD40 I should wait a bit and then use an air compressor to blow off excess, especially on the rubber boots/connectors?
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Old 23 October 2012, 03:19   #16
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[QUOTE=npm108;495453][QUOTE=jezza2011;494884]spray lectrics with wd40.
Quote:

I've always been told not to spray WD40 on Electrics especially on the connectors and rubber boots found on the wiring within the engine, because it eats away at it.

Can anyone confirm? Is there some alternative or something better than one can use?

I had once been advised that if I did spray engine with WD40 I should wait a bit and then use an air compressor to blow off excess, especially on the rubber boots/connectors?
Correct WD40 (which is glorified paraffin) will eventually turn all the rubbery bits to snot. I use Corroguard & dry silicone spray.
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Old 23 October 2012, 13:47   #17
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WD40 is a big NO NO paraffin and water mix get this its the dogs dangles http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrblock.htm
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Old 23 October 2012, 13:52   #18
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totally right. do not use WD40 for this as will expand rubbers n shit, I use quicksilver corrosion guard or Wurth 2040 spray
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Old 23 October 2012, 14:02   #19
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WD40 is a big NO NO paraffin and water mix get this its the dogs dangles http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrblock.htm
Or if you want to splash the cash how about a outdoor Coon (and I am not being racist ) that is what it's called I saw one today one of my customers has his Ferrari in one keeps the electrics dry.
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Old 23 October 2012, 14:51   #20
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Fuel tank

When I had a hard boat before the enlightenment there was mixed vies on whether the tank should be full or empty due to condensation building in the tank what do you guys do ? I must say the costs with an outboard are far less than lay up and servicing of my previous inboard engine : )
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