Go Back   RIBnet Forums > RIB talk > RIBs & ribbing
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 13 August 2012, 17:05   #1
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Mold, Flintshire
Boat name: The Laura - Lew
Make: Honda Honwave T40 Ae
Length: 4m +
Engine: 25HP 2 Stroke petrol
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 5
Suspected water in gear oil ?

Hi Guy's
I am new to all this as I have owned my rib now for only a short period of time and could do with some advice about my engine please.
The problem is that last weekend after a day out at sea I returned to base camp and as per normal attached my flush muffs to my Yam 25hp 2 stroke engine to begin the flushing process.
As the engine ran and the water flushing through I noticed milky coloured water coming from the prop.
After cleaning I took the gear box oil screw out to check the oil level and noticed that the oil was grey in colour, is this normal ? or is this a sign that water is getting into the oil ?
I know that there are oil seals in the prop area, but does anyone know how I can check them to see if they are in fact ok ?
Any advise would be great as I am new to it all and just starting out !
Thank you
__________________
knighty4391 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 August 2012, 17:23   #2
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Northampton
Make: RibTec
Length: 5m +
Engine: Outbaord mariner 75
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 506
Mine does this. comes out milky from the prop exhaust.
not a problem.

BUT grey oil is bad.
needs changing.

Change the Oil and take it out for a spin. then re check the oil.
drain it out and if it looks milky or small bubbles of stuff in it then its probably the prop shaft seals.

But get that oil changed sharpish :-)
__________________
jezza2011 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 August 2012, 19:22   #3
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Mold, Flintshire
Boat name: The Laura - Lew
Make: Honda Honwave T40 Ae
Length: 4m +
Engine: 25HP 2 Stroke petrol
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 5
Thanks for that advice, will do.
__________________
knighty4391 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 August 2012, 20:41   #4
Member
 
Peter_C's Avatar
 
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,912
Removed the bottom plug and put a glass something under it, and let the first few seconds drain into the glass, then inspect it. ANY water means the seals are toast. If the oil looks like a coffee latte the seals are toast. Kits are cheap and they are pretty easy to replace with basic hand tools.

Either way you need to change the gear box fluid as it should be a very light tan color. If you don't have the necessary tools to change it go buy them as it is a simple service and will still be cheaper than paying someone to do the service including buying the tools. Also replace the o-rings/seals on the fill and drain plugs every time. (Call it cheap insurance.)
__________________
Peter_C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 August 2012, 20:50   #5
Member
 
Pikey Dave's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,896
RIBase
Remove the prop & check for fishing line around the propshaft.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4:Don't feed the troll
Pikey Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 August 2012, 21:36   #6
Member
 
hamster's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 196
I regularly have this problem on our boats at work as we share the lake with fishermen. After lots of expensive repair bills I regularly check each engine ever 4 weeks for fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft in front of the prop.

If left undetected it wraps tighter and tighter and gets drawn into the gearbox through the seals and let's water in and wrecks the oil. If its nylon line it can also melt due to friction, even under water, and be a real bugger to get off from what ever it sticks too.

Simple enough job to change the oil and shaft seals. If the milky oil smells a lot when drained you know it's been in there a while. Change the drain plugs seals while your at it at 50p each it's worth it even just for piece of mind. When you drain the oil look at in sunlight for signs microscopic metal particles which could be your gears Wearing due to the oil not functioning properly.

Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net
__________________
Freelance skipper, RYA Powerboat Trainer and Advanced Examiner
hamster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 August 2012, 21:39   #7
Member
 
hamster's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 196
Invest in an oil pump with screw connector as well. A lot easier and cleaner than trying to squirt oil into the holes from the tubes it often comes in.

Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net
__________________
Freelance skipper, RYA Powerboat Trainer and Advanced Examiner
hamster is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT. The time now is 06:17.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.