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Old 14 February 2017, 19:16   #1
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Rehab for Zodiac Projet 350

Hello RIB forum!

I'm working on a 2002 Zodiac Projet 350 with 83hp Yamaha jet drive. I know my way around boats but this is my first RIB.

So far I've gotten it running, removed the tube, removed all loose glue-on accessories from the tube, removed and cleaned the bolt ropes and tube surfaces with MEK.

Now it's time to put the two bolt ropes back on with 2 part Polymarine PVC adhesive. I've read the guides at the Polymarine site and done some googling.

#1
I've had AC running in the shed I'm going to apply the adhesive in, but I'm on the coast in Florida and so far it's down to 66* and upper 50% humidity. Is that good enough to cure right?

#2
I'm concerned about the rippling on the PVC skirt around the bolt ropes in the spots where they curve preventing me from getting a good grab on the tube.

Should I expect the adhesive to just hold this down flush and flat like I can easily do with my fingers after letting the first coat sit and get tacky? Or is there something I can do to flatten it out like maybe warm iron it without damaging anything?

Or am I overthinking this and once all of the rest is stuck on it ought to hold just fine?
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Old 15 February 2017, 08:10   #2
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I'm thinking some wood furring strips separated from the adhesive by wax paper, painters taped around the tube and furring strips to press the skirt flat against the hull while it cures.
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Old 15 February 2017, 08:36   #3
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Multiple wipes with MEK are required. The rag should come up "clean" with a little melted plastic residue on it, allowing timing for evaporation between wipes.

Your last wipe should take place about 5-10 min before you start gluing. This is vital, as it will swell the material slightly and open up the coating to allow proper adhesion by the glue.

You need to inflate the tube more. There should be no ripples.

Once the glue touches itself, it cannot be repositioned.

Your temp and humidity are perfect. At those values, your cure time between coats will be approximately 6 to 7 minutes. You will have about 9 to 12 minutes of working time to lay the piece and burnish it.

Do one bolt rope at a time.

Ensure your glue coats are very thin. Excess glue will cause premature failure. excess glue skins over, and traps solvent underneath which doesn't alllow for a complete cure between coats. When the piece is laid, the skin pops, the solvents release, and then the solvent deactivates the glue you just laid down as it tries to escape from under the material.
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Old 15 February 2017, 11:22   #4
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Great glue tips thanks.

The tube will be fully inflated, but the ripples I'm concerned about are the fabric that is being glued To the tube.

Quote:
"Once the glue touches itself, it cannot be repositioned."
So if I understand, it's going to be tacky enough that once I push those two parts together flattening the ripples on the bolt rope's fabric, they are going to stay put..
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Old 15 February 2017, 11:35   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james63 View Post
Great glue tips thanks.

The tube will be fully inflated, but the ripples I'm concerned about are the fabric that is being glued To the tube.



So if I understand, it's going to be tacky enough that once I push those two parts together flattening the ripples on the bolt rope's fabric, they are going to stay put..
Creases can usually be burnished out, but it is preferable to avoid that.

If you touch the glue at the end of the cure, it will be almost completely dry to the touch.

Glued sections that has lightly touched can be jerked apart.

If the pieces have been burnished, and you made a mistake, you can deactivate the glue by applying drops of MEK to the edge as you unpeel it. After that, you can either scrub the glue entirely off with MEK and a rag, or you can wait 5-10 min for the MEK to flash off, then apply one more coat of glue to both surfaces, respect the cure time, and try again.
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Old 15 February 2017, 19:37   #6
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Horrible confession.. I poured the adhesive goop out into two solo cups like I usually do with epoxy resin (always fine for a half hour or so) because those rings make it easy eyeball exact halfings, got a rag to start up with the MEK, turned around, and it had already melted through the cups! ha oops.

In hindsight that's stupidly obvious as it's supposed to do the same to the PVC.... yeah.

So it's back to West Marine tomorrow for more adhesive, and this time some solvent-proof containers.
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Old 15 February 2017, 23:08   #7
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I use a 500ml Pyrex beaker and disposable pipettes to add reactant. Glue doesn't stick to glass, and it's completely non-reactive.

Gluing isn't an exact science, but the less variables you have, the better.
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Old 16 February 2017, 08:15   #8
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I had only bought a 250ml can. How much do you think I need for this?
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Old 16 February 2017, 19:32   #9
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Probably gonna need more so Get a second to have on hand. As Office mentioned do one side at a time. Check your amount used after first coat , if you need to mix more , never wanna run out in the middle of gluing.
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Old 16 February 2017, 20:04   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james63 View Post
I had only bought a 250ml can. How much do you think I need for this?
Takes about 2/3 Zodiac can, so about 500 ml

I use a 500 ml beaker, but I usually only mix 250 ml. Extra space prevents spillage during vigorous mixing.
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Old 20 February 2017, 17:41   #11
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Few days delay due to rain on Friday night waiting for AC to catch up to the humidity.

First 250ml can got the two bolt ropes and four of what appeared to be factory patches over slits made to allow tools inside the tube, and now I'll wait for that to cure then move on to some things that glue between the bow ends of the bolt ropes, Zodiac logo panels, etc.

Going to have to order some Hypalon glue to re-attach the rubber hand grabs since I see that PVC adhesive doesn't stick to rubber, but does stick to Hypalon glue, which sticks to rubber.

Order, because last week when I returned a tube to my local West Marine after remembering in the parking lot that the Internet said to check expiration date and found sticker on the tube expiration date was next month, I brought it back in and the salesman agreed that stuff was no good to sell.. We checked the other tube they had on hand and it was also expiring next month. A few days later buying more PVC adhesive I checked the two tubes of Hypalon adhesive they had on the shelf and West Marine had just removed the expiration date stickers from both expiring tubes, re-boxed them, and put them back on the shelves. Wow dishonesty.

But progress!
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Old 21 February 2017, 15:16   #12
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Any creasing can be gone after the glue sets by using a hot air gun . . But dont get it to hot.... Number one advice is when the two panels are bonded is use a hand roller and apply pressure... Roll all over and leave over night to set...
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Old 21 February 2017, 20:16   #13
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All parts on the tube take PVC glue.

If you're experiencing rejection problems, the surfaces may not be clean enough.
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Old 22 February 2017, 12:21   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by office888 View Post
All parts on the tube take PVC glue.

If you're experiencing rejection problems, the surfaces may not be clean enough.
I haven't actually tried gluing it with just the PVC stuff yet. This isn't my actual handle of course but same one--
http://www.ribsforsale.com/images/boats/grab%20handle%20on%20tubes%20of%20zodiac%20yatchli ne%20delux%20420%20deluxe%20rib_l.jpg

I am thinking from the feel of it that it's rubber, but will give it a try with the PVC only as soon as the rain stops again.
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Old 22 February 2017, 13:24   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james63 View Post
I haven't actually tried gluing it with just the PVC stuff yet. This isn't my actual handle of course but same one--
http://www.ribsforsale.com/images/boats/grab%20handle%20on%20tubes%20of%20zodiac%20yatchli ne%20delux%20420%20deluxe%20rib_l.jpg

I am thinking from the feel of it that it's rubber, but will give it a try with the PVC only as soon as the rain stops again.
Those handles are molded thermoplastic (plastomer).

Don't take my word for it... put a drip of MEK on it. If it melts / becomes sticky, it's a plastomer.
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Old 26 February 2017, 18:47   #16
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It all went back together surprisingly easily.

Thumbnail is upside down but full image doesn't seem to be.. (edit - clicking the thumbnail, then clicking the preview image, brings up non-flipped image. i removed all the tags and flipped it in photoshop but the forum software has spoken.)

It's inflated - those dark lines that make it look like it isn't are stains from sitting so long. Some of that PVC killing Florida sunlight would probably bleach it a little.

Anyone have experience with PVC tube paint? Is that worth doing or junk?
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Old 25 August 2021, 16:15   #17
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nice job james........is the repair holding up....as im in the first stages of the same repair!!!
Did you inflate the tubes when gluing?
Any other things / tips you can pass on
cheers roy in sheffield uk
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Old 31 August 2021, 20:09   #18
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I have tried to reply to you three times lately but this forum web application has always found new and inventive reasons to discard my messages and drop me back at an empty text box and I never wised up enough to copy/paste before submitting.

Long story short no real new information not already posted here. Everything I discovered and others suggested are legit good information. Would I do it again? Nope. Glad I learned it? Sure am. Best of luck to you and I strongly suggest you trust the advice these people gave me in this thread and maybe even my oops style findings too. 😁👍🏻
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Old 24 September 2021, 19:15   #19
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i have been cleaning and cleaning and cleaning and using up the western hemispheres supply of mek and gluing and burnishing and and and ........its come out reallly good....so good that after inspecting the bond strength on the bolt rope with an reinforcing strip down the seaward side, I really feel confident that its pukka for a few more years....i plan to test in ullswater uk .......we will see!
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Old 27 September 2021, 07:29   #20
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Hi ,
I just bought a zodiac 350 with a Yamaha engine and need to find spare parts to the engine. To be more exact I need a new exhaust , at least to start with…
Anyone knows where I can find this blue pipe and potentially also other parts in the future.
Thanks a lot for your help!!!
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