How to secure the centre console to the hull?

Tarikisan · 23 August 2010, 05:56

Hi

I was thrown off the boat yesterday, and if not for the cabling, the centre console will have followed me overboard.
I admit, I was thrashing the boat around as I tend to do, and I've either found the limit of what even a proper mounting is designed for, or possibly it was just old and weakened over the years.

The boat is under 10 years old, and it seems that the centre console was originally glued to the deck. Its some sort of adhesive anyway, the attached pics might show it more clearly if that matters.

So that brings me here, trying to find the best way to secure it to the boat, hopefully in a manner that still allows me to use it in the way that I do, or maybe just a wee bit less enthusiastically.

Ta

Cypman · 23 August 2010, 08:15

It looks like it has been "attached" with Sikoflex or some sort of resin, it may have been joied with an epoxy adhesive.
Other than building up a fibreglass join on the inside and outside I would suggest that a suitable connection could be made with SS self -tapping screws and an effective resin/epoxy adhesive, hopefully you can get to the internal lip to drill and screw. Screws should be circa 100-150mm apart. Before applying any adhesive make sure the surfaces are well roughened and absolutely clean and grease free.
What is clear is that the original fitting was totally inadequate.
Finally, there are lots of threads on the consequences of ill-fitted consoles/seats, they are worth a read before you proceed with the fix.

DJS · 23 August 2010, 15:20

I had a similar post re fitting seat pods and I am now reliable informed that the most secure method is a combination of glue, screw and fibreglass.

A bead of sikaflex 292 on well prepared surfaces(free from dust etc but not smooth) to include stainless screws as previously suggested however, do not over tighten the screws as this may squeeze out the sikaflex and reduce its bonding capability; following this (after all has cured) fibreglass the console to the deck again on surface which is free from dust paint etc.

Hope this helps!

Rogue Wave · 23 August 2010, 15:43

The fact that the console came loose indicates poor construction to me and that would make me wary of th material I was self tapping into.

I'd bang an inspection plate into the deck close to the console and check out the thickness and condition of the deck before I got happy ith the self tappers

Downhilldai · 23 August 2010, 15:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rogue Wave

I'd bang an inspection plate into the deck close to the console and check out the thickness and condition of the deck before I got happy ith the self tappers

Good point.

Then, as you have access to below deck, you could use button head bolts with penny washers & nyloc nuts (or Bigheads) instead of self-tappers

Tarikisan · 23 August 2010, 15:58

Thanks guys, that certainly helps.
It won't be comfortable but it looks possible to drill and screw in there, with as small a drill I can find I suppose. Or, I could drill the holes in the console first, and mark it off on the deck and then drill and screw. I'll give it some more thought.

As for the inspection plate, I did some googling to see what it is and how it will help me decide whether to go ahead with the screws and Sikaflex, but I'm still lost.
Please excuse my ignorance and explain if you don't mind.

At first I assumed that's how centre consoles are mounted to the deck, perhaps so that when it comes loose it doesn't rip the deck apart, as screws would. Not that they're supposed to ever come loose, but I did start out thinking I had abused the boat.

I think I assumed this because I expected this manufacturer to be reputable, not sure why, since I did repontoon recently with a private guy who uses military grade material instead of sticking to the manufacturer.

Anyway, I almost want to assume that the deck is OK and will take the screws, but maybe once I understand the inspection plate I'll think better of it.

Tarikisan · 23 August 2010, 16:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Good point.

Then, as you have access to below deck, you could use button head bolts with penny washers & nyloc nuts (or Bigheads) instead of self-tappers

There's definitely a missing piece here for me, I look forward to understanding how I'll get access to below deck.

Tarikisan · 23 August 2010, 16:07

OK, I think I see how the inspection plate works.
It looks a bit like a little door. Great idea, because I also have a bunch of sand below. Much more than I'd expect from a bit of fun in the sun. I wonder if the boat wasn't wrecked before.
I think I'll put it below the fuel.

Anyway, thanks again.

Downhilldai · 23 August 2010, 16:09

http://www.bailey-marine.co.uk/categ...eckplates.html

Tarikisan · 23 August 2010, 16:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

http://www.bailey-marine.co.uk/categ...eckplates.html

Any harm putting 2 of those plates down, 1 below the fuel and another in the hatch ahead of it?
These 2 areas are compartmented, so if I want to use the bolts, washers and nuts approach I'll need to gain access to both areas. That, or get a long enough inspection plate that gets me within an arms length of both areas.

How far apart would you put those bolts? And what size nut/bolt will do?

Tarikisan · 24 August 2010, 10:44

I've been looking into the nyloc nuts, big washers and the button head bolts.
Any reason you chose button head bolts?

I'll spread them 100-150mm apart as with the self-tappers that Cypman mentioned.

Downhilldai · 24 August 2010, 11:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tarikisan

Any reason you chose button head bolts?

They're nicely rounded, so less likely to cause injury, if someone walks on them barefoot.

As the flange on your console appears to be internal, you should be ok to use hex bolts.

Tarikisan · 24 August 2010, 11:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

They're nicely rounded, so less likely to cause injury, if someone walks on them barefoot.

As the flange on your console appears to be internal, you should be ok to use hex bolts.

Oh I see. Yes all the work will be internal, and the hex bolts are a little bit nicer to work with if I ever need to remove the console.

I'll go with the Sikaflex 292 and the nuts and bolts. That's got to hold it down. The fibreglass to finish I'll pass on for the moment, perhaps do it somewhere down the line when next I have to take it to a shop for work.

Thanks once more.