Feature follow-up: Pacific Console Change - Page 4

Seb · 04 October 2003, 17:20

Does anyone have any ideas where i can get a new strainer for the sea cock on my P22 from?

Also, does anyone know anything about the bilge outlets on these boats? Should the two hoses end when they exit the engine box or should they run along the aft deck to the drainage points in some kind of trunking?

All help/suggestions very much appreciated.

Cheers,

SEB

Neville · 04 October 2003, 19:35

seb,
the bilge pump is piped off from those two fittings across the deck and in front of the port deck drainer. A simple clamp holds the pipes down and is screwed in to the deck. The tube can bought at any chandlery shop.

The strainer can be ordered in by a reputable chandlery shop, or you could make your own from similar material purchased through a hardware shop. While you are there, check the gate valve.

Seb · 17 October 2003, 19:48

All, sorry to be a pain in the arse but im after more ideas.....

Does anyone know of or have a good anchor mounting/positioning method for the P22?

Im having trouble working a sensible solution out that will be practical and look neat (without crashing around on the deck).

Shame theres ot a solid bulkhead in the hull at the bow- put anything down the hatch at the moment and its gone for good!

Help appreciated

Cheers

Scary Des · 20 October 2003, 07:29

The anchor, in RN specification, is mounted on the deck, forward left. There should be a couple of wooden blocks on the deck to hold the middle of the anchor and one flute. I have a CQR but I am not really sure this is original spec.

Pete7 · 20 October 2003, 13:46

Seb, your right there is loads of space under the front deck, I can even crawl down in there. suggest you buy a decent hatch and mount it in the deck which would allow access and somewhere to store all the junk we seem to need. My hatch is mounted about 6 inches infront of the standard console.

The MCA recommend a 10kg anchor for this size of boat if it is going for coding. Seems a sensible recommendation.

Pete

Scary Des · 20 October 2003, 14:36

Seb, pete is right, fit a hatch but make sure it is strong enough I fitted one which claimed to be suitable for deck use but my son managed to break it in a moment of excitement. I replaced it with a Vetus Planus 5050 whish fits between the longitudinals and so far has been strong enough

Seb · 20 October 2003, 18:02

Cheers for that guys....the wooden mounting blocks make sense now- shame i ripped them up and binned them though- thought they were poxy paddle mounts and i couldnt find any paddles to fit on them!

No worries though, ill give the hatch idea some consideration. Will the anchor and chain be ok slamming around in th hull though?

Cheers,

SEB

Seb · 20 October 2003, 18:35

Pete, out of interest, was it hard work getting your boat coded? I have printed the boat rules ad regs off the mca website but they be awfully strict- or are p22's built to a requirement that will enable them to pass outright assuming that they are in good nick? i.e. the info goes as far as saying that fuel breathers have to be mounted higher than filler caps- i know mine isnt for starters!

Cheers,

SEB

Pete7 · 21 October 2003, 18:41

Seb, my anchor lives in a large platic box under deck with the chain and rope on top. Not had a problem yet. By the way you can get a P22 air bourne. Suprised the hell out of me when I did it!

The boat itself is a great start for getting coded. the breather tube on mine before I changed the console went up through the rear console seat frame so should comply. However its up to the surveyor on the day. You will deffinately need the space under the deck for all the stuff required.

The main heart ache is the cost. Surveyor and stability test cost £500. Life raft hire is £500 a year and probably £1k for life jackets and stuff like a barometer! However the YDSA how have a stability test for 9 people (my boat) so any other standard P22 can easily be coded for this number now. (Halmatic rate the boat for 12 pax and two crew).

The rules are about to change and a draft set of the new rules is available on the net, somewhere. However stick with the yellow book and you wont go far wrong. However if it says something you have to do it. for example you need hatches to cover the air vents on the engine box. Not a problem two pieces of wood and two door stops to hold them in place against the S/S hand rail but the surveyor checked they fitted!

Pete

Seb · 21 October 2003, 20:51

Cheers for that Pete- i think ill leave the coding for a while now though. I dont think my heart can stand any more costs like that!

Something to look at in the future though.

Have also got my P22 airborne and it surprised me too! Still managed to come back down elegantly and comfortably considering the weight.

One more query if you dont mind? (Not sure if i want to hear the answer though) but do p22 decks tend to have flex in them or are they suppost to be rock solid like a grp deck?

For instance, in front of the console on mine, above the void in the hull, the ply deck tends to flex when walked upon. Just the plywood naturally moving under the weight or likely to be damp and soggy?

Cheers again,

SEB

Pete7 · 21 October 2003, 23:33

Seb, no don't worry. The decks are 3/8" ply as standard and not a structural item so they do flex. They are held in place by thousands of screws that you can see. Perfectly normal on these boats.

Pete

thewavehumper · 22 October 2003, 07:46

Quote:

Originally posted by Pete7
They are held in place by thousands of screws that you can see. Perfectly normal on these boats.

Pete

what I had to take out! when Pete replaced the deck he covered the new piece of wood on both sides with a sheathing of GRP. This was a really clever thing to do as it updated the look of the boat by about 10 years

Seb · 22 October 2003, 17:13

Cheers for that! I had visions of a slowly rotting deck and one day jumping on it and disapperaing into the hull!

Will also allow me to get some sleep at night- no more nightmares about having to renew the whole surface!

Cheers again,

SEB

Pete7 · 27 October 2003, 14:58

Seb just keep an eye on the deck at the back. JW has done a number of these ribs and they do go soft there after a while. Also do you have the standard round hatch above the prop in the rear deck ? if so this piece is susceptable. Mine has been replaced with that Al chequer plate (4 x 3')which is much stronger.

Pete

Seb · 28 October 2003, 07:33

Yeah, i do have the standard round hatch at the stern. This is on its way out though i think- its particuarly flexible so i guess that its quite damp.

Ali check plate sound like a good plan. Probably looks smarter too!

Cheers for the idea.

Having the new a-frame delivered today. Could anyone give me a pointer as to how you go about connecting the 2 neutral and live power cables to the wiring from the 4 nav lights- im no sparky!

Cheers

SEB

DGR · 28 October 2003, 08:34

Seb,

Could you post the link on the MCA site for the coding stuff that you mentioned? I've been looking for the info and can't find it on the site (probably me being thick!!

)

I believe that there is a big difference in requirements between Cat 5 and Cat 4, and as I'm only really interested in Cat 5 at the moment, I'm trying to work out what the differences actually are!!

Cheers,

Dylan...

Pete7 · 28 October 2003, 15:27

Dylan,

The latest newsletter from the MCA is at:

http://www.mcga.gov.uk/c4mca/mcga_dq...news_oct03.pdf

However the MCA is playing around with their web site at the moment so the main site is at:

http://www.mcga.gov.uk/c4mca/mcga-home

The big difference in coding is between 3 and 4. Difference between 4 and 5 wasn't much so I went straight for 4. Interestingly the MCA have just bought 3 ribs from Halmatic to Code 3. Code 3 is supposed to have shelter for the crew from the elements which the open ribs haven't. Looks like they are foul of there own rules. Quite a good web site worth having a good look around.

Pete

DGR · 28 October 2003, 16:15

Thanks Pete7.

Good website - much easier than last time I tried the MCA site!! Looks like I'll just have to get the Yellow Code Book.

Cheers,

Dylan...

Seb · 30 October 2003, 16:39

Im in the process of replacing the engine gauges on my rib and am having trouble with the ammeter....

The old ammeter was a VDO blue line but this is now discontinued so i have bought the latest equivalent- VDO ocean line ammeter.

However, the connections for this are different. Existing feeds are chunky positive and negative cables only and the new one requires this as well as 2 other feeds labelled 1 and 2 whose purpose i do not know (instructions are useless!)

Has anyone else done anything like this and had this problem and if so, how is it overcome?

Cheers

chrisallse · 30 October 2003, 17:45

I have just looked at the instructions on the net. term 1 and 2 connect to the shunt the + and- connect to the battery neg and to the alternator. the gauge shows charge and discharge.
the shunt is in line with the load. (the gauge would burn out if the load was connected across it). i assume you have got a shunt with it? if you are not sure what you are doing i would seek help as you could cause damage or even a fire if you connect it incorrectly. good luck.