Cracked hull

Cumbria · 08 September 2020, 20:24

Hi

My flatacraft force 4 hull has a crack and looks like a old repair.

Looks like it's going to be a right off :-(

Anyone found any boat builders up north who could mold a new hull , or can it be done ? Prob not but thought maybe worth a ask.

Will post a wanted add as need a new 4m rib to replace it as just got a new outboard.. a 40hp ..

Would like to keep the ob as it's great..

Caps a blooming great month

gtflash · 09 September 2020, 07:48

Picture ? Great little boats.

pilotwillie · 09 September 2020, 08:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cumbria

Hi

My flatacraft force 4 hull has a crack and looks like a old repair.

Looks like it's going to be a right off :-(

Anyone found any boat builders up north who could mold a new hull , or can it be done ? Prob not but thought maybe worth a ask.

Will post a wanted add as need a new 4m rib to replace it as just got a new outboard.. a 40hp ..

Would like to keep the ob as it's great..

Caps a blooming great month

There’s one for sale on the ‘Bay at the moment if you were desperately seeking another [emoji1303]

Cumbria · 09 September 2020, 08:23

Photos I hope

willk · 09 September 2020, 08:30

I see that my crystal ball is still working...

Linky

If I was the repair shop - I'd be having a waiver signed.

Cumbria · 09 September 2020, 08:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by willk

I see that my crystal ball is still working...

Linky

If I was the repair shop - I'd be having a waiver signed.

Appreciate link ... No problems when took back previous we sorted it and bought loads of stuff from the said dealer :-) ... Really impressed with them helping me sort it out

Cumbria · 09 September 2020, 08:43

Even doing my service on the yammaha :-) ...

Nasher · 09 September 2020, 14:20

A bit of work but an easy enough repair for somebody who wants to save the hull.

Cut the inner deck moulding out carefully, let it all dry out for a few weeks under cover then repair/strengthen from the inside.
Then grind out the crack underneath, fill and fair it.

Replace the inner moulding, make good the join and the jobs a good-un.

It saddens me that nobody is prepared to do stuff like this any more.

If you were closer I'd do it for you as I appear to be going to have a bit of time on my hands.

By the way, Flatacraft used sprayed chopped strands rather than mat to make inner mouldings towards the end of their production run, but it was not as strong as cut mat, so many inner mouldings split, including the one in my last Force 4 which I cut out, repaired from the underside and strengthened in key places before putting it back in by joining it around the edges.

An acquaintance who visited the factory to buy a boat near the end of production told me he'd changed his mind as he'd seen a hull being laid up with a spray gun, but I didn't believe him.
Perhaps I'd owe him an apology after all these years if I knew where he was.

Nasher.

Fenlander · 09 September 2020, 15:14

>>>It saddens me that nobody is prepared to do stuff like this any more.

Agreed.

I had a 4m GRP sports fisher with a 20hp having previously had such a repair to a similar area. I improved the external look of the repair but otherwise it was problem free and withstood the Sound of Jura waters OK on a couple of two week holidays.

Nasher · 09 September 2020, 15:28

Ah, but Fenlander, you and me are old school Ribnet, who do stuff for ourselves.

Nasher.

beamishken · 09 September 2020, 16:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nasher

A bit of work but an easy enough repair for somebody who wants to save the hull.

Cut the inner deck moulding out carefully, let it all dry out for a few weeks under cover then repair/strengthen from the inside.
Then grind out the crack underneath, fill and fair it.

Replace the inner moulding, make good the join and the jobs a good-un.

It saddens me that nobody is prepared to do stuff like this any more.

If you were closer I'd do it for you as I appear to be going to have a bit of time on my hands.

By the way, Flatacraft used sprayed chopped strands rather than mat to make inner mouldings towards the end of their production run, but it was not as strong as cut mat, so many inner mouldings split, including the one in my last Force 4 which I cut out, repaired from the underside and strengthened in key places before putting it back in by joining it around the edges.

An acquaintance who visited the factory to buy a boat near the end of production told me he'd changed his mind as he'd seen a hull being laid up with a spray gun, but I didn't believe him.
Perhaps I'd owe him an apology after all these years if I knew where he was.

Nasher.

Wasnt chopper gun layup quite popular back in the day? My pal used to lay up boats with a chopper gun system which was quicker and easier than manually cutting csm.
Probably not environmentally friendly enough nowadays though

36valley · 09 September 2020, 19:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by beamishken

Wasnt chopper gun layup quite popular back in the day? My pal used to lay up boats with a chopper gun system which was quicker and easier than manually cutting csm.
Probably not environmentally friendly enough nowadays though

Back in the seventies laminating was a pretty messy game. Basic mat bashing was done for the most part by unskilled guys who just wanted to get the day done and clear off home. Workshops were usually covered in discarded mat and resin and your feet were in danger of sticking to the floor, when there was a floor, I've seem workshops were they were working on dirt!

And then there was the chopper gun booths, they took the mess to a whole new level. If you think about the over spray you get in a paint booth and then change the paint for csm and resin you get the picture. It took a certain type of guy to work in that environment.

beamishken · 09 September 2020, 19:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by 36valley

Back in the seventies laminating was a pretty messy game. Basic mat bashing was done for the most part by unskilled guys who just wanted to get the day done and clear off home. Workshops were usually covered in discarded mat and resin and your feet were in danger of sticking to the floor, when there was a floor, I've seem workshops were they were working on dirt!

And then there was the chopper gun booths, they took the mess to a whole new level. If you think about the over spray you get in a paint booth and then change the paint for csm and resin you get the picture. It took a certain type of guy to work in that environment.

You've been in my pals workshop then[emoji6]

Cumbria · 09 September 2020, 19:17

Thx guys .. I have found a local boat builder who's going to do this for me ... Is u have any tips please email me I will pass it to builder .. well pm and I will print and pass on.. .

Matt · 09 September 2020, 21:34

What Nasher and Fenlander said. GRP is easy to repair. It just requires a little patience, thought and research to do it right.

Here's one I did "earlier".

gtflash · 10 September 2020, 22:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nasher

A bit of work but an easy enough repair for somebody who wants to save the hull.

Cut the inner deck moulding out carefully, let it all dry out for a few weeks under cover then repair/strengthen from the inside.
Then grind out the crack underneath, fill and fair it.

Replace the inner moulding, make good the join and the jobs a good-un.

It saddens me that nobody is prepared to do stuff like this any more.

If you were closer I'd do it for you as I appear to be going to have a bit of time on my hands.

By the way, Flatacraft used sprayed chopped strands rather than mat to make inner mouldings towards the end of their production run, but it was not as strong as cut mat, so many inner mouldings split, including the one in my last Force 4 which I cut out, repaired from the underside and strengthened in key places before putting it back in by joining it around the edges.

An acquaintance who visited the factory to buy a boat near the end of production told me he'd changed his mind as he'd seen a hull being laid up with a spray gun, but I didn't believe him.
Perhaps I'd owe him an apology after all these years if I knew where he was.

Nasher.

Well done for distinguishing the pictures. I can’t work it out.

WhaT nasher failed to mention is not only is a grp repair quite easy and many of us would help you step by step. But an average looking repair on an old boat is even easier. It’s the new kit and funky gelcoats I’d be scared of as final finish is the hardest. A solid repair is pretty easy

Matt · 11 September 2020, 06:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtflash

Well done for distinguishing the pictures. I can’t work it out.

WhaT nasher failed to mention is not only is a grp repair quite easy and many of us would help you step by step. But an average looking repair on an old boat is even easier. It’s the new kit and funky gelcoats I’d be scared of as final finish is the hardest. A solid repair is pretty easy

gtflash · 11 September 2020, 07:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt

What Nasher and Fenlander said. GRP is easy to repair. It just requires a little patience, thought and research to do it right.

Here's one I did "earlier".

How’s the arrow Matt? What’s the ride like?

Matt · 11 September 2020, 07:51

Very good. Needs almost no up trim to get it on the pad so runs nice and flat, on the pad and just romps along really. Ran out of prop on the last run, so have some others to try next time - but unsurprisingly, it's not been a priority this year. Should be out in it again soon - fired the motor up a couple of weeks ago on the hose - just doing a bunch of work on the Landrover now to get it roadworthy again so I have a tow vehicle.

(Sorry about the bald spot. It is what it is.)