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Old 22 August 2005, 22:20   #1
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Batteries

Can someone give some advice regarding the suitable battery to fit in a rib with a 50hp outboard and GPS/sounder.

Thanks,

Nuno Canteiro
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Old 22 August 2005, 22:24   #2
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Any thing that fits, really! A 50 hp motor shouldn't need too much cranking current, but a "Leisure" battery (ie caravan spec.) should be better than a standard car battery as they are supposed to with stand full discharge better than a car battery which is built cheap, light and for maximum current in short bursts.
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Old 22 August 2005, 22:26   #3
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Sealed ?

Does the battery needs to be a sealed type ?
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Old 23 August 2005, 00:25   #4
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sorry - i dont want to steal the thred but whilst we are on the subject of bateries - has anyone ever had a battery failure out at sea.

does anyone carry backup batteries.

i was thinking of buying one of those small sealed lead acid bateries you can get in maplin if for no other reason than to get the gps and vhf powered back up.
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Old 23 August 2005, 02:58   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roycruse
sorry - i dont want to steal the thred but whilst we are on the subject of bateries - has anyone ever had a battery failure out at sea.

does anyone carry backup batteries.

i was thinking of buying one of those small sealed lead acid bateries you can get in maplin if for no other reason than to get the gps and vhf powered back up.
You may as well go for one of the self contained powerpacks - they are the same price as buying just a battery if you shop around!!!
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Old 23 August 2005, 03:03   #6
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Do a proper job

why not fit two batteries with a selector switch!

I only fit Maximas to my boats but they are real dear 140 poonds each. the leisure batteries from towsure will do get two 85 amp ones for abot 70 kwid.

I see no point in carting around a powerpack which usually is not butch enough to spin the outboard and is not waterproof or damage reistant
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Old 23 August 2005, 07:06   #7
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Batteries are pretty important!. Depend what engine you have, Two stroke, Four stroke, DFI. DFI engines need quite alot of power to run the electrics so the engine can fire up. They also can take a few turns of the flywheel to get the compressor to bring the up to the right air pressure. So they will need a good battery on a cold morning.
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Old 23 August 2005, 09:35   #8
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With twin engines you can do a self jump start, all via just an isolator key.
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Old 23 August 2005, 10:40   #9
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providing you have enough grunt in the Battery to start the first one!
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Old 23 August 2005, 21:39   #10
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just back from scotland i got one of thows battery pack booster starter £35 halfords my batterys on the blink and ive a 115 hp 2 stoke loads of power turned the engine no probs about 10 times on one charge and still charged my camp light
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Old 23 August 2005, 21:58   #11
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Quote:
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just back from scotland i got one of thows battery pack booster starter £35 halfords my batterys on the blink and ive a 115 hp 2 stoke loads of power turned the engine no probs about 10 times on one charge and still charged my camp light
I presume you mean you started the engine 10 times - not just turned over 10 revolutions.

it sounds just what im looking for - thanks
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Old 24 August 2005, 09:47   #12
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yes the boat battery went flat and wouldnt turn over the engine ,put the jump start onand spun the engine nice and fast .started/ bobs ur uncle done this 10 times
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Old 24 August 2005, 09:57   #13
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Is this the one you have
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Old 24 August 2005, 12:14   #14
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I've been toying with the idea of fitting on of these:

http://www.force4.co.uk/ProductDetai...6-6db22b05e5e4

In short it isolates your battery before it goes flat if you leave anything on.

Any thoughts?
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Old 24 August 2005, 12:28   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael S
I've been toying with the idea of fitting on of these:

http://www.force4.co.uk/ProductDetai...6-6db22b05e5e4

In short it isolates your battery before it goes flat if you leave anything on.

Any thoughts?
It all depends on how it reaches the trigger voltage (11.9v) if it reaches it quickly the battery will recover to a reasonable voltage but if the drain has taken a long time the battery will simply stay at the trigger voltage
When we tested this type of device some years ago we really couldn’t find one that justified the cost. Things might have changed but I really think that the fundamental principle of operation is flawed, far better to have twin batteries and a split charge system Des
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Old 24 August 2005, 13:36   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael S
I've been toying with the idea of fitting on of these:

http://www.force4.co.uk/ProductDetai...6-6db22b05e5e4

In short it isolates your battery before it goes flat if you leave anything on.

Any thoughts?

They fitted an equivalent to some small 12v commercial vehicles-as well as them being very common for 24v Leyland/Daf trucks. I'd like to bet it'd be half the price from a commercial vehicle spares outlet...
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Old 24 August 2005, 16:03   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roycruse
Is this the one you have
thats the one
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Old 24 August 2005, 23:34   #18
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Des,

I agree completely that two batteries would be way better but I just don't have the room. My battery is in my single jocky which also houses my aux. fuel tank. Thanks for your comments. Finding someone who had tested the thing was exactly what I was after.

Nos4r2,

They do make a commercial vehicle version and you're right it was cheaper, but less so than I expected and they claimed the marine version was different. You're probably right and there's no difference.

Cheers

Mike
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Old 25 August 2005, 13:36   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael S
Des,


They do make a commercial vehicle version and you're right it was cheaper, but less so than I expected and they claimed the marine version was different. You're probably right and there's no difference.

Cheers

Mike

The commercial one probably has a higher shutoff point-you're unlikely to be able to start a truck with 23.8v from cold-and bloody great solenoids to isolate tail lifts etc. You'd probably have to waterproof the switch too-but they look a hell of a lot prettier (black rocker switch)and have a flashing LED as part of the rocker switch to tell you if it's tripped.

Course, if you want to get something a whole load cheaper there's always this... http://www.sailgb.com/p/battery_guard_c8310/

I suspect if you were to cut the cables and route your accessory wiring through it then it'd do the job-as long as you havn't got 15 amps running through it continuously.
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