1st Rib Project a Humber 6m Destroyer

whackywoody · 10 February 2013, 18:27

Folks,

I have been lurking on the site for some time and it looks like I have taken some inspiration from some of the project blogs as I have taken the plunge myself to go ahead with my 1st rib project. I am relatively new to boating as purchased my first boat (a bayliner - I know its a mistake) in the summer of 2012 after I had completed my PB level 2 in 05/12. Anyway that's enough of me for now here is the boats specs!

1996 6m Humber destroyer
1989 Evinrude V6 VRO 150HP (actually runs but yet to do a compression test but doesn't appear to rattle) - The plan is to sell bayliner the end of summer 2013 to pay for a replacement engine such as 150 Opti!
Running gear - very minimal as VRO not connected to engine (maybe a good thing as I may want to go down the pre-mix route), stainless steel A Frame, teleflex steering which is seized, petrol tank but no fuel lines, rev counter which doesn't work.
Centre console - Looks like its been caught in the cross fire some where and foam seat needs re-covering. I have a plan to redo layout of the boat with a different console and jockey seats.
Roller Hallmark Trailer - Mudguards need replacing, tyres don't hold air, coupling damper needs to be replaced and the wheel bearings are shot as it was long 30mph journey home listening to the droning noise of bearings about to collapse

Anyway the post would be worthless without PICS

A1an · 10 February 2013, 18:31

It looks a good strong base to start from.

Best of luck with it.

Tim M · 10 February 2013, 18:32

Looks like a great project! May I ask what you paid? Tubes should clean up with some TFR. I too would ditch that engine! Have fun!

SteveHall · 10 February 2013, 18:37

Looks like a good project

whackywoody · 10 February 2013, 19:03

I only purchased the rib this Friday so not much progress just yet. The project will be split into phases.

Phase 1 - Tubes

In the couple of spare hours I had this morning I have found that all three tube sections go flat with the following problems

1.) All A7 (x3) valves leak so I will be looking to buy 3 valve service kits

2.) Previous patch repair doesn't hold air as per picture 1. Advice needed please, I will remove the patch but what chemical do I need to remove the old glue, how do I prepare repair area (sand paper?) and can I buy a new patch which matches the humber orange from anywhere along with the Hypatholon glue?

3.) Picture 2 there are 2 leaks one at each end of the ark and the ark is roughly 20 cms long. This was done by the previous owner who dragged the boat with flat tubes and trailer with no mudguard across a field, end result is the wheel has rubbed the tube

. Advice please - Same as above really but will I get a big enough patch to cover the whole length of wheel rub rather than 2 patches at either end where the leaks are

4.) Picture 3 and 4 show the front nose (sorry don't know proper name) which needs regluing for cosmetic reasons. Ideally I don't want to completely remove as rubbing strake goes over the top and hope I can do this. Advice please - To reglue the base onto the hull what prep work/tools do I need to do and what glue should I need to use. With the top bit should I pull it off the tube upto the rubbing strake and then prep and reglue. If yes what prep/tools and glue can I use?

5.) Picture 5 shows the underside of the rear cone which isn't leaking but again needs regluing. Similar question to item 4 above do I just pull back rubber patch until I get good glue bond, prep and then reglue?

As I have no manual please can somebody tell me what pressure should I inflate the tubes to as I don't want to pop them next time I inflate them

nugent · 10 February 2013, 19:15

Woody it's an early 5.8 same as my latest quest transom gives it away

whackywoody · 10 February 2013, 20:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by nugent

Woody it's an early 5.8 same as my latest quest transom gives it away

Yo Ed, I took the 4 digit number from the transom ID plate and phoned up Humber to ask them what boat it was and was told it was a 6m 1996 destroyer. Is there another number somewhere else on the boat I should have given humber to identify it?

Cheers Woody

Chris · 10 February 2013, 23:23

Woody,

Where you are peeling back bits to have them re stuck then you will need to sand the old glue off back down to Hypalon. you can use a sanding wheel on a drill if you are careful as well.

For cleaning the tubes and removing stray glue I would use Hypalon Glue Thinner and some fibre pads to get the really deeply engrained stuff off. Bostik M501 Thinners. Only available to companies. Not available to general Public HEN002004 - Henshaw Inflatables Ltd

Then Bostik 2402 is the stuff for gluing hypalon. Bostik 2402, 250ml Adhesive including D10 hardener HEN002009 - Henshaw Inflatables Ltd

Personally I hate doing tube work and prefer to leave it to a pro. NWRI is near you speak to Dave he is very helpful and a good guy.. North West RIBs & Inflatables - boat repairs If you can get them to do the work it will save you a lot of grief.

Nos4r2 · 11 February 2013, 02:08

Use a Scotchbrite wheel on a drill to clean the old glue off. Do it lightly. It'll key the tube nicely as you do it.

colcreate · 11 February 2013, 07:14

Looks like it will make a decent rib, good luck with the repairs.
As previously mentioned Dave at Northwest ribs should be able to get you some orange patches or even do the job for you. Round off any square corners on the patches as they tend to lift first and don't bother re-glueing old ones, replace them. An 80s grit flap wheel will prepare the surfaces but be careful with old previously repaired areas as they will already have been worked quite hard already.
Only 3 x A7 valves on a 6m, (3 chambers)? That wouldn't meet current standards so perhaps it would help confirm the year?

nugent · 11 February 2013, 17:04

If humber state it's a 6 mtr it will be, I was under the impression the extra build up on transom as yours was on the 5.8 early 90's hull

whackywoody · 12 February 2013, 18:22

Thanks everyone for your support and advice so far as I do appreciate it. I now have plans to tackle the punctures and dodgy valves at the weekend.

Thinking ahead a little bit - Does anybody know where I can get a manual for the outboard engine (1989 Evinrude VRO 150Hp) as I wouldn't mind trying to get a going for a short while. I have looked on the web and have not found anything so far

whackywoody · 10 March 2013, 21:51

Right its time for an update folks but don't have a photo of everything unfortunately!!

Tubes are up and stay up!

1.) A7 Valve leaks (x3) fixed with service kit (diaphragms replaced)
2.) 2 Punctures fixed with small patch followed by large overpatched bits sourced from North West Ribs
3.) Bow strake and rear cones reglued!!!

[B][U]Trailer[U][B]

1.) Bent handbrake now straightened and rebuilt
2.) All wheels bearings were shot and have now been replaced with new wheel bearings
3.) New backplate welded to axle stud as other one badly corroded
4.) New brake shoes and springs fitted to both wheels thanks for the bits supplied by Port sunlight trailers

Consoles and fuel tanks

1.) Centre console now removed from deck and sikaflex removed
2.) Double console with suicide seat and 2 x jockey seats now ordered but will need to wait 7-8 weeks
3.) Main fuel tank removed (its a big un - see for sale section as I am replacing with a plastic tank)

Whats the next job!

1.) Sell engine / remove from transom
2.) At Easter the plan is to prep, fill, glass in anchor storage and flowcoat deck / transom
3.) Do trailer brake cabling
4.) At Easter gelcoat scrapes in hull
5.) Order fuel lines, vhf radio / hardware, underfloor trunking, deck / nav lghts, chart plotter and sonar
6.) Have another go at cleaning these bloody tubes!!!!

whackywoody · 04 April 2013, 21:46

Been busy but time for an update folks!!!

1.) Engine has been removed and there is holes everywhere (1st photo) Don't ask how we got the big old beast off as that's another story.

2.) Transom holes all filled with wooden dowels and chopped strand. Transom then ground and smoothed out flat.

3.) Deck ground out with grinder and all holes sifllexed in and fibreglassed over to ensure a good seal (photo 2). The grinding was a dirty job as there was dust everywhere and took 3 of us 3 hours to clean up. Next time I will be grinding outside!!

4.) Bow / anchor storage cut and fibre glassed onto deck (sorry Ed stole another one of your ideas!!) (photo 3)

5.) Bow, transom and deck sides flow coated (photos 4 and 5). This was difficult and a bit disheartening as the finish close up is not that great. Looks like I will be repainting in some localised areas to get a better finish!!

Back to work tomorrow but not bad for a weeks work!!

whackywoody · 04 April 2013, 21:48

Next up jobs

1.) Paint deck floor in the next week with black non-slip paint. Looking at the last photo there is spillage of my flow coat on the deck area will this need to be ground down or will the non-slip paint hide this? (photo 1)

2.) Turn boat upside down on grass to polish (G3) and acetone hull and then fill and paint scratches / gouges

3.) With boat off the trailer, service rollers on trailer

4.) Put boat in the water to test for leaks

5.) Look for an engine and running gear

Thanks

Gareth

nugent · 05 April 2013, 05:44

looking good,keep up the good work,,,

Jizm · 05 April 2013, 05:48

Nice job, well worth flipping it over if you can.

nugent · 05 April 2013, 06:33

grinding drips and spillage,
depends on finish your after with non slip, i had drips ever where, messy worker i am,,,,, and went over the top it looks fine to me

even better now that i have masked up the base of seat pods and tidy'd it up some what, i intend to complete mine this weekend,

keep up the good work can not beat doing it your self,

whackywoody · 07 April 2013, 17:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by whackywoody

Next up jobs

1.) Paint deck floor in the next week with black non-slip paint. Looking at the last photo there is spillage of my flow coat on the deck area will this need to be ground down or will the non-slip paint hide this? (photo 1)

2.) Turn boat upside down on grass to polish (G3) and acetone hull and then fill and paint scratches / gouges

3.) With boat off the trailer, service rollers on trailer

4.) Put boat in the water to test for leaks

5.) Look for an engine and running gear

Thanks

Gareth

Just another update to bore you all!!

Deck now done with non-slip paint and now not far off starting the technical stuff!

Have a big decision to make regarding what engine to go for??

whackywoody · 22 April 2013, 20:42

Ok, another update for you all with the last 2 weeks work

Boat was removed from trailer and was flipped upside down to find various scratches / gouges, poor previous repairs and black rubber roller marks

To tackle this the following was carried out!

1.) Hull wiped cleaned with acetone
2.) Hull polished using G3 rubbing compound and buffer
3.) Bad gouges through gel coat and poor previous repairs prepared and then filled
4.) Repair areas then masked and painted with a close paint match (not repainting the whole hull as I know I just won't get a satisfactory finish)
5.) Last photo shows afterwards