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Old 12 October 2012, 14:18   #1
Gaz
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My New Bombard Aerotec Set-Up

Right, well I've been lurking around here for a while now, asking questions, but probably not giving as much input as I should have myself.

To that end I'm gonna post a few pics of my new Bombard Aerotec set-up, in the vague hope that they might come in useful to someone else (after all, everyone loves a photo).

I've just upgraded from a 15hp tiller to a 25hp, 2 stroke, with remote controls and cross bar steering. I initially thought that I would have all this in place within a couple of months, but it actually took closer to three years, buying everything piecemeal, individually, and second-hand - and I'm not finished yet (although, to be fair, most of the delay has come from me being easily distracted)!

The trailer is a De Graff, if anyone is interested (and I have one or two things to say about the suitability of these trailers to the Aerotec - again, if anyone is interested).

Only been out on the water once since I fitted the new engine, and it seems as though it needs a bit more tweaking yet (for example, I have have literally gallons of water tumbling over the transom, swamping the boat, when I go at max speed, which forces me to slow down for a while whilst it flushes out - any help with this problem would be gratefully received, by the way).

Anyway, here are the pics. If anyone has got any questions, please feel free to ask away:


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Old 12 October 2012, 14:32   #2
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And here are a couple more pics (not the greatest, I'm afraid, as all taken on an i-phone):



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Old 12 October 2012, 15:11   #3
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post a pic looking directly at the transom at prop level .Looks like your motor could be too deep in the water . what length shaft engine have you fitted ?
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Old 12 October 2012, 15:48   #4
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Hard to tell, but I'd guess that your motor is sitting way too deep. Seems to be verified in the 1st pic of post 2, but the angle is possibly deceiving. As Ian says, a shot from directly behind, about even with the keel, with the motor down, would be helpful. Or if you don't want to take the pic, the anti-ventilation plate should be about even with, or slightly above, the keel when in normal running trim.

jky
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Old 12 October 2012, 18:56   #5
Gaz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
Hard to tell, but I'd guess that your motor is sitting way too deep. Seems to be verified in the 1st pic of post 2, but the angle is possibly deceiving. As Ian says, a shot from directly behind, about even with the keel, with the motor down, would be helpful. Or if you don't want to take the pic, the anti-ventilation plate should be about even with, or slightly above, the keel when in normal running trim.

jky

No fear, I am more than happy to take the pic suggested. Will have to wait until tomorrow though, as it is now dark outside and I am well into the bottle of port that my missus bought me for my birthday yesterday (incidentally, I received a 'Happy Birthday' message from Ribnet in my emails, so happy with that!).

When I bought the engine I interrogated the guy over the phone about it's length and he insisted that it was short shaft. After that I just accepted what he said and haven't even thought about measuring it. Think I will stand it up against my 15hp short shaft tomorrow to check it's length.

Apart from that, thanks for the responses guys. Better stop typing now as I'm a bit tipsy, and likely to start (continue) rambling.

Will get that pic up asap.
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Old 13 October 2012, 01:01   #6
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Reckon I have a near identical set up. Without a raise it really was a water fall coming in the boat.

Once the engine read lifted it's all fixed :-) ...

Simple job..
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Old 13 October 2012, 10:25   #7
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Thanks again for the responses, guys.

Here are the pics of the anti-ventilation plate, in relation to the keel, (along with some measurements from the anti-ventilation plate to the point where the transom clamp hooks over the transom, at about 38cm, which is the equivalent of 15", indicating that it is indeed a short shaft). And yes, it looks as though the plate does sit a fair few centimeters below the rear of the keel, whilst out of the water.

Peter, reference your offer, on another thread, to come and have a look at your set-up, this is much appreciated. I've got a combination (clash!) of hangover and lots to do this weekend, so if I can't fit it in this weekend hopefully I can come over another time, if that's OK? Is your engine also a Mercury?

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Old 13 October 2012, 10:26   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterM View Post
Reckon I have a near identical set up. Without a raise it really was a water fall coming in the boat.

Once the engine read lifted it's all fixed :-) ...

Simple job..

Yep, quite a waterfall. I was shocked to turn around and see the boat swamped so quickly!

.
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Old 13 October 2012, 10:43   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz View Post
Thanks again for the responses, guys.

Here are the pics of the anti-ventilation plate, in relation to the keel, (along with some measurements from the anti-ventilation plate to the point where the transom clamp hooks over the transom, at about 38cm, which is the equivalent of 15", indicating that it is indeed a short shaft). And yes, it looks as though the plate does sit a fair few centimeters below the rear of the keel, whilst out of the water.

Peter, reference your offer, on another thread, to come and have a look at your set-up, this is much appreciated. I've got a combination (clash!) of hangover and lots to do this weekend, so if I can't fit it in this weekend hopefully I can come over another time, if that's OK? Is your engine also a Mercury?

.
Hi Gaz no worries . Im a little delicate myself today ( was still taking boat apart at 9am though

Pic of mine attached - I think yes same Merc 25 . Mines a 2004 (from memory) engine.
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Old 13 October 2012, 20:21   #10
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Mercs being rebadged Tohatsu's are natural water splashers if not height seated correctly on transom. In normal sib/ribs you should have a minimum of 40 cm height from keel to upper transom, being your sib a deep inflatable V keel hard to determine correct height.

What you can do for the moment is : inflate well tubes and keel to factory recommended working specs, sit engine on top 1" wooden shim to start with to raise engine, water splash is caused by water flow hitting the non triangle at lower middle leg, it's not a malfunction, it's a design issue. Height specified at owners manual is just a theoreticall refference, if wanting boating perfection it's a wot spin under trial and error shimming.

With engine perpendicular to sib go for a wot spin and add shims accordingly untill there's no water splashes at back tail, probably will need to fill the middle space properly and permanently once perfect transom height is achieved, including raising both engine pads to new position. This is a one time job.

Years back had same issue with a 380 sib, problem was corrected testing different shims heights until the optimum was reached, then proceeded to fill and flaten middle transom with epoxy cement to become a straight transom.

By the way you can pass that 2 strokes 25 to 30 for penauts, piece iof cake to do so, will have better hole shot and better top speed at wot than with standard 25 HP. Plenty info on this forum.

To have an overal idea of what need to be done. If anything not clear, just ask.
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Old 22 May 2015, 09:16   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz View Post
And here are a couple more pics (not the greatest, I'm afraid, as all taken on an i-phone):



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Hi,

I have a question about how to fit the floor in the Aerotec: is it done the way this picture shows ? (the straps holding the floor in place) Or should the floor be pushed under the tube ? What is the correct pressure for the floor ? Thanks !
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Old 22 May 2015, 18:20   #12
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Hi,
Manual states inflate floor fully then tubes. Although in practise it seems easier to partially inflate tubes first then edges of floor slide under tubes better as floor inflated.
Floor should be inflated to 0.8 bar (11.6 psi)
Pic below shows floor when boat new and floor didn't seem to tuck far under tubes even though straps were pulled tight. After a bit of use floor easily tucks a bit further under tubes.
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Old 23 May 2015, 14:04   #13
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Manual states inflate floor fully then tubes. Although in practise it seems easier to partially inflate tubes first then edges of floor slide under tubes better as floor inflated.
I've always inflated the tubes first, then the floor. I don't know why, it just seemed the most natural way to do it - I didn't know I was doing it wrong! I'll try the proper way next time.
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Old 23 May 2015, 18:10   #14
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John,
I wouldn't bother, doesn't seem to make much difference either way. As I'm sure you know the key to getting the best out of these superb little boats is max. max. max. pressure!!
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Old 26 May 2015, 07:43   #15
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So, we took the Bomard out for the first time last sunday. It went very well. I inflated the tubes first (partially) then the floor and finally the tubes to the correct pressure. The boat performs very well with the 15hp Mercury (couldn't go full speed because of the 16km speedlimit but i did hit 32kmh on the GPS with 2 adults and one child in the boat). Just some minor spray/splash.

One more question: the "vents" in the transom (near the floor), these are to loose water that enters the boat ? Do I have to close these ? How does this work ?

Thank again !
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Old 26 May 2015, 10:37   #16
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Glad you are pleased with your new boat.
Yes, they are self bailers and will drain the boat when underway. I leave mine open all the time, even when stationary.
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