Excel 435 HD fit out from scratch

[Keltoyboy]

Hi Jeff
I haven’t tried as of yet, weather not been very kind.
Great to hear you have been out on the boat,
I didn’t raise my engine and have not suffered with any cavitation but find that in any bit of weather she is difficult to keep in a reasonable straight line, find when flat calm but very skittish in any bit of sea.
Still running standard prob and am going to check on top speed and revs next time out but I don’t feel I was anywhere near 18 knots two up, prob 12/14 at max.

[jeffstevens763@g]

just a bit of footage of the grey gurnard and the falls of lora entering loch etive

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZkF0...ature=youtu.be

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by Keltoyboy

Hi Jeff
I haven’t tried as of yet, weather not been very kind.
Great to hear you have been out on the boat,
I didn’t raise my engine and have not suffered with any cavitation but find that in any bit of weather she is difficult to keep in a reasonable straight line, find when flat calm but very skittish in any bit of sea.
Still running standard prob and am going to check on top speed and revs next time out but I don’t feel I was anywhere near 18 knots two up, prob 12/14 at max.

good news that you have no cavitation so dropping mine should sort that.
sibs aren't the best to keep straight but tightening the slew brake so its stiff i find makes it better so does tightening the throttle screw so that it stays in place at you chosen revs. if its skittish you need more weight forward all your kit spare fuel etc take an empty drum and fill with seawater try that and keep taking a bit out until you get it right
i dont think having the leg down 40 mm will drop speed that much my standard prop was 10 1/4 x 11 i would expect at least another knot out of it with an inch of pitch at WOT

[The Gurnard]

Here you go Jeff..enjoy the memories ..It was a great weekend despite the weather

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSmIZLqFLAk

[jeffstevens763@g]

nice one Donny thanks for posting until the next one cheers jeff

[jeffstevens763@g]

as above rarely do you get it right first time so i ended up with lowering the engine, clamp saddle directly on top of the transom ok it might not be optimum performance but for my style of boating it will do.

i lost power entering loch etive on my radio & chartplotter no big one so i left it until we landed and got the tents set up turns out the connector at the engine end on the charging cable had come adrift on the +ve side it was suspect when i fitted it since it didnt lock in on the spade connector so i ripped it off made a quick joint to get me home. ive used a 240v connector i had laying around its ip something so ive sealed it where the cables enter and wrapped in amalgamating tape, its only going to get splashed and rained on so will be ok.

next was the splash web where the Aux engine fits the stick on velcro works ok but when its sunny it goes into a sloppy mess and moves so off it came ive wrapped it around a piece of HDPE rod with a screw to stop it unraveling.

lastly the console shroud was a bit flimsy as i used what i had so i used 5 mm sheet this time also put a better angle on the top so i can see the chartplotter better.

i mentioned the tarpaulin clamps slipping i was going the put a shackle through the web but i thought it might tear down the road so ive put some of the anti slip fabric in the clamp jaw to see if that will hold seems good so far

[Fenlander]

All useful fine tuning Jeff. I see the old elec lawn mower connector came in handy. That's what I've used to make a plugable extension lead for my 12v pump. Good size pins so no heating under load, snaps securely together and made to be waterproof.

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

All useful fine tuning Jeff. I see the old elec lawn mower connector came in handy. That's what I've used to make a plugable extension lead for my 12v pump. Good size pins so no heating under load, snaps securely together and made to be waterproof.

well spotted David ive had it donkeys years i knew it would come in, i took the earth pin out which makes it easy to put together if pins get distorted a bit

[jeffstevens763@g]

well it must be a yearly ritual or im just searching for the best console.
I've decided to make a mould for a console that hugs the tube, i've made a plug out of an old bookcase out of my office at home, its soft wood so easy to work with a few pics of the start.
now I've never made a mould so this is a learning curve, I've got it sanded down to 120 grit with a final filler curing now so when that's sanded down i will coat with durabuild and sand down with 1200 grit for a polished finish.

[Steve509926]

I'm being a bit slow today Jeff, must be alcohol residue from the weekend! When you say hugs the tube, am I right in thinking between the deck and the tube?

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by Steve509926

I'm being a bit slow today Jeff, must be alcohol residue from the weekend! When you say hugs the tube, am I right in thinking between the deck and the tube?

the last pic is how it will be on my boat Steve the radius is 250 mm my tube 500mm the righthand side goes up to the hogging rail and will be attached there the bottom will be half way down the tube and attached by bungee to a floor clamp using the existing clamp i have now, my chart plotter radio will be flush mounted, battery etc housed inside on a false floor with access by a hatch.
keep drinking like wine you'll get better at it with age: D

[Steve509926]

Great idea, look forward to seeing the finished console.
I might have next winters project already lined up

[jeffstevens763@g]

all sanded and filled, durabuild coat on and rubbed down with 1200 grit cleaned off with acetone ready to wax. the tyre inflator i fitted to aid splitting the mould from the plug.

[Steve509926]

Good progress Jeff. I've never done a mould before.
What's the first coat to go on? and how many layers of glass mat will you put on?

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by Steve509926

Good progress Jeff. I've never done a mould before.
What's the first coat to go on? and how many layers of glass mat will you put on?

ha me neither i done it in reverse by glassing over the wood then sanding finishing with flow coat but you don't get a good finish unless spraying which i don't have the skills for or kit. so its a first for me I'm going to wax 12 times then coat with PVA release agent applied by sponge it leaves quite a good finish to be fair. then gel coat twice, on to one 100g chopped strand mat then 300g matt twice lastly biaxial cloth one layer, plus i will strengthen the mould with glass over plastic pipe and make some feet on the base. ill have a look at the finish but I'm inclined to use matt PVA on the console its self more in keeping with the boat fabric texture. as i say its a learning curve but i hope to have a little mould to make these i don't see anything out there to buy hence making one.

[beamishken]

Looks like you might struggle to pull the mould off the plug & or pull the piece out of the mould the sides look very square to be able to release. Unless it's just the camera angle & it is actually tapered

[36valley]

It's been a few years since I last worked with Matt PVA but it had to be sprayed on to the mould. There was quite an art to getting a good uniform finish.

If you think It might be difficult to release the mould from the plug your making then it's best make a split mould with a side that can be unbolted.

[jeffstevens763@g]

BK it's got a 5 MM taper on all sides my idea is to pressurise the mould with air to split restraining it with foam rubber cushion under a shelf when it if it flys going to try and video it be a laugh if it wipes the shed out lol
36 valley I'm going to use smooth on the plug using a micro density sponge I'm getting a good finish on a test piece following the east coast resin supplies video also Im touch with them for technical support. The Matt I'll try for the cast if I can apply as you say it might be out of my skill set nothing to lose it washes off thanks for the tip

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

BK it's got a 5 MM taper on all sides my idea is to pressurise the mould with air to split restraining it with foam rubber cushion under a shelf when it if it flys going to try and video it be a laugh if it wipes the shed out lol
36 valley I'm going to use smooth on the plug using a micro density sponge I'm getting a good finish on a test piece following the east coast resin supplies video also Im touch with them for technical support. The Matt I'll try for the cast if I can apply as you say it might be out of my skill set nothing to lose it washes off thanks for the tip

The picture looks square but even 5mm taper isnt much & could cause you problems, hopefully not.
You also need to be careful with the compressed air too as if can find its way into the laminates it can destroy the mould or workpiece. I like to leave a hole or flange somewhere that either wont be seen or is going to be cut out later & fit a bottle jack to push it out.
If your going to be fitting anything on top of the console (vhf, guages,steering helm etc) you could leave a 25mm hole just enough to get a small bottle jack through to push with & glass a reaction frame below to push against as you fit your reinforcements /stand to the mould.

[jeffstevens763@g]

the longest side is 400mm the short side 250 mm I'm pretty confidant on splitting it from the mould because i use to make kayaks years ago when i did slalom & river running so i know a few knacks with that plus i made the webs wider than i need on the curves and base so a little damage there prizing off will get trimmed off