Avon Sportsboat Floor - a couple of questions

[9D280]

Evening all.

Following a bit of a fight with my Avon S3.4 to assemble the floor single handed last weekend, I tried searching the posts here to see if there were any "hints & tips"... Bottom line was I couldn't keep the boards under the toobs on both sides as I "arched" it's back to lock the triangular bit at the bow into the "rectangle" part of the floor...

Having tried said juggle with various degrees of inflation from completely flat to "soft full" , I realised this is probably a 2 person game... (first time attempting it solo!)

So, first question - not being a gymnastic octopus, is it possible to assemble the floor correctly with only 1 person? if so- how?


Whilst perusing the posts, I became aware of people talking about the "lengthwise struts"...

I am now wondering if the boat I bought is missing same, and could this be part of the answer to the "can it be done single handed"? I am aware that my rearmost and frontmost rectangular sections both have "sticking out bits", and I am now wondering if the "recess" between them is for said strut?
I'm thinking it might be an aluminium extrusion similar to the ones that hold the rectangular sections together, and the bow section into the wood stuck into the bow, but with only one slot and a nice rounded edge on the outside?

Q2 - can anyone with one of these hulls post a pic of a <definitely all there> floor?

(For the avoidance of doubt, the recess I speak of is between the arrows on the attached pic. apologies for the quality, it's the only one I have showing the possible lack of said strut)
(For the avoidance of doubt 2 - I'm only running a 5HP on the transom at the moment, so a less than totally rigid floor hasn't "shown face in action" yet....!)

[spartacus]

Long time to hear from you.

Making a guesstimate as not familiar with Avon S3.4.

That said it won't be a million miles away from early Zodiac MkII.

I used to run oars under either side of the boat to provide rigidity. That was in Zodiac's instructions. Inflation, tubes soft, just to give them shape.

I wonder if you are missing the internal stringers? On Zodiac, you'd get the floor built including the bow thrust board, then add aluminium stringers either side. There's a knack to adding them. But once installed it holds the floor in situ, and you can hear everything lock into place under inflation. Zodiac used to have rubber pucks as guide of where to fit on the floor.

[Fenlander]

This is a 70s Zodiac but will be very similar. I guess you are missing the side stringers.

Re getting the floor in... usually tubes part inflated to give a bit of shape (but no pressure) and as Spartacus says laying the oars under the floor just a few inches in from each side makes a huge difference.

[smallribber]

Interesting ‘construction’ Just the same as modern sibs with Ali floors but made from wood

[9D280]

Spartacus,
Yeah, it;s been a while... I think I've done more sea miles by Calmac than I have by Inflatable boat recently.... (other Ferry companies are available! )

Do you mean use the oars to keep the floor flat and presumably under the partially inflated toob? My problem was being solo, the opposite side "popped out"regardless how I tried to lift it (I even tried almost properly inflating one side of the back section & sitting it on it's side, but the bow floorboard fell out repeatedly.

Fenlander,
Yeah, What you picture there is what I imagined. your "rectangle boards" are pretty similar to mine (I'll get some pics later) - Does your "stringer" have a floorboard thickness groove, or is it a step so it sits on top of the floorboards & pressed into place when the toobs are inflated? (held in place by inflated toobs?)

Easdalenovice,
Interesting you say that... The old Avon sales brochure has an Ali floor as an option... but is it any lighter than the ply? (I think I know the answer to that! )

- anyone got an alu floor sportsboat and can comment?

[Fenlander]

The stringer has a groove in it with a slight V to aid fitting so the board edge slots into it rather than the stringer just resting on top with a step as you say.

[tinker]

Don't fit the front part last, fit it first and slide a middle section in last with semi deflated tubes.

[9D280]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

The stringer has a groove in it with a slight V to aid fitting so the board edge slots into it rather than the stringer just resting on top with a step as you say

Brilliant, thanks.
I should be able to attack some wood with a planer / router & get a working pair of them.

If you have a Genuine Avon set, any chance of some dimensions or close- up photos? If not I can probably guess-to-make something work!

Originally Posted by tinker

Don't fit the front part last, fit it first and slide a middle section in last with semi deflated tubes.

Slide - of course - from the side?....

Remind me to drink more coffee before I start assembling it next time!

Only possible problem is the Avon alu connectors are quite sharp cornered and may dig into the ply, which is the problem I had trying to get everything to "drop in" last time.

Will give it a go tho'.

[Fenlander]

There is no doubt the all wood floors of the early Zodiac and Avons were easiest, as in my pic post 3. It was all round edged and pushed in place with ease and no trapped fingers. Some of the alloy floor models have such sharp edges you really have to watch out for the tube material as you push boards and stringers into place.

Sadly no close up pics. We've been all air floors here for ten plus years.