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Old 21 June 2005, 14:26   #1
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Destroyed Jockey Wheel

The jockey wheel on my trailer is playing up. Very hard and graunchy to turn. It has been taken apart and fully re-greased, but it still graunchy even on an unloaded trailer.

Suggestion is the thread is knackered because the nose weight is quite high. I suspect the fully laiden rib is and trailer to be about 1300kg. When we attach it to the car, there is a noticable depression of the rear suspension. But it drives very well.

Solution may be to move the wheel on the trailer but that sounds complicated and is probably best left for the 100 hour service at Solent Ribs.

Suggestion is that I purchase a new more heavy duty jockey wheel

BJ48ML Bradley Jockey Wheel 48mm 175x45 wheel
48mm medium-duty telescopic jockey wheel, Sylvatect finish, 175x45mm steel centre wheel with composite tyre. Suits Bradley couplings & clamps, ideal for light/medium commercial trailers. Maximum nose weight: 150kg


I cannot really lift the trailer at all on my own so it suggests a nose weight of way more than 30kgs - or am I wrong given the angle?

My question is - does the new wheel come apart when you wind it out (like the old one) so is the process of fitting just replacing new for old very simply?

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Bruce
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Old 21 June 2005, 14:31   #2
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Really speaking you should check the nosweight of your trailer - by placing a bathroom scales or similar under the nosewheel - it should be within the limits set down by your car maker. Heavier is better but not more than they state!!!
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Old 21 June 2005, 14:34   #3
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Yeah, thanks for that idea. Problem is I don't have bathroom scales in Lymington, and a buying a pair seems overkill. Anyway, they scare me
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Old 21 June 2005, 14:37   #4
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Usually Bruce you replace the whole lot, that's bracket, wheel and winding mechanism.

Have a look at this: http://www.towsure.com/default.asp?d=28&t=57&p=0&op=

Is based in Southampton as well.

Just wind up the front of the trailer (if you can) on the jockey, place some bricks underneath the trailer drawbar and lower the trailer onto the bricks to unload the jockey. Remove jockey and replace......Easy

Andy
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Old 21 June 2005, 14:38   #5
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If ya can't lift it, I bet it's more than 60/70kg's
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Old 21 June 2005, 14:55   #6
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Hightower, the clamp is all sort of one assembly with the trailer, welded on. See piccy. You get the jockey assembly out by screwing it out all the may, then if falls apart into two pieces, and one half comes out of the hole upwards, and one part downwards.

The question is - do all jockey wheels fall apart in the same way?
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Old 21 June 2005, 14:58   #7
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My old Indespension jockey wheel corroded internally from dunking.

The heavy-duty Bradley one I have on my current trailer is OK, and although I don't dunk it, previous owners have.
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Old 21 June 2005, 15:03   #8
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Bruce,

Going beyond the stated noseweight will infringe your insurance. Also it isnt at all kind to the performance of the suspension. If you cannot lift it then I'm guessing its pretty high.

If bathroom scales scare you measure the hieght of the bottom of the hitch whist loaded and get your mates to sit in the boot of the car till it gets to back to that level, diplomatically request an "estimate" and hey presto your noseweight is calculated.

Our trailer was "heavy" so we borrowed a noseweight guage - 130kg my old landy was ok but other vehicles wouldnt be.
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Old 21 June 2005, 15:04   #9
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The mind boggles. What happens to the car if you dunk the jockey wheel?

Oh, I get it, the trailer is on a rope and they put the wole trailer fully into the water?

But I have never done that.
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Old 21 June 2005, 15:06   #10
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Simon a great idea. Have you ever sat on the 'bonnet' of a people carrier

But I am getting the impression the weight may the problem.

BUT is that not something a boat builder who supplied boat and prepped trailer would have checked??
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Old 21 June 2005, 15:19   #11
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That's a mighty stupid design!!

Right, measure the diameter of the old one and match it up with a new one. Once the new one is apart so that you can install it, cover everything internally with waterproof trailer axle grease. Job done .

Andy
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Old 21 June 2005, 15:31   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
cover everything internally with waterproof trailer axle grease. Job done .

Andy
Grease is the word, is the word, is the word...
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Old 21 June 2005, 15:31   #13
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Andy, can I just confirm that ALL jockey wheels come apart gracefully whatever the make?

Bruce
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Old 21 June 2005, 15:37   #14
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I can say from all the jockey wheels I have ever taken apart, the answer is yes - just keep un winding.
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Old 21 June 2005, 15:40   #15
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Brilliant - thank you
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Old 21 June 2005, 15:55   #16
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Bruce

Whilst changing the jockey wheel, consider getting one with a pneumatic tyre. I did when mine fell apart, and it is now much easier to move around by hand on uneven groung & gravel.

Regarding what made it sticky. Have you moved the trailer with the wheel wound well out? I imagine that you do not move it up and down on the clamp with all that nose weight. If you have you may have bent the "bolt" inside which will make it hard to turn.

An alternative way to reduce nose weight is to move the boat back on the trailer and then adjust the winch post and snubber.
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Old 21 June 2005, 16:03   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Halliday
Regarding what made it sticky. Have you moved the trailer with the wheel wound well out? I imagine that you do not move it up and down on the clamp with all that nose weight. If you have you may have bent the "bolt" inside which will make it hard to turn.
Don't think I have moved it around. However, have regularly extended and retracted the wheel so as to raise the nose of the boat in a series of step wise movements using wooden blocks to get the nose very high so as get all the water out of the hull. Have sometimes left her for a week or so in such an upnose attitude.

Could that have caused the problem and bent the "bolt"?
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Old 21 June 2005, 16:22   #18
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Possibly. The thread is not very big and if it is pushed a bit sideways when only a few threads are engaged, you can damage the end of it.

BTW I got my jockey wheel from the caravan shop 4 doors down from my house. I think there only 2 shaft sizes.
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Old 21 June 2005, 17:22   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucehawsker
BUT is that not something a boat builder who supplied boat and prepped trailer would have checked??
was up there today and lifted 2 of there rib/trailer setups. Way too much weight up front imho. Dont know if yours is the same. Have you got the 1250 admiral trailer also?? Ive moved the axial forward on ours by about 18 inch to get a desent weight on the ball. I beleive that they dont move the axial and leave it in the position they get them from admiral, but could be wrong. I'll measure the distance between the axial and the center of the rear roller support to give you some idea. But bear in mind that ours has a bigger lump on the back so the set up would not be quite the same also fuel load and other stuff will effect the loading

if you have a standard car you should be able to lift it fairly comfortably.

paul
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Old 21 June 2005, 17:37   #20
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Not sure which admiral I have. But it is a single axle admiral.

How do I tell which it is?

Is it difficult to move the axle forward? Please tell me how?
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