Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinyShoe
I'm still perplexed!
- where does Yamaha get its switches made? How will I know which I have? I will bet it's erm... China
- curly cords - well known the cheap ones have no string core and are not up to much. (Although if the choice is no spare or a cheap spare... I'll take the cheap spare)
- what actually fails on these and does it mean my engine won't start or my engine won't stop
- I have one of these with the wires btw. So far been just fine. But not had much use.
- does a snapped metal connection on a spade not make corrosion MORE likely?
- if the wire version is a true pattern part... It will fit the space.
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It's likely you have an original one or a original pattern one, if so now your aware now you choose. . . (you weren't up to now!) either leave it alone or order one from a main dealer and replace. I snap off the connectors to make then fit easier and to just get rid of them they are not needed, either keep them or snap them off, I put some glue on them once snapped off (bent them to and fro gently and they just come off) I use a hot glue gun stick, melted with a lighter and dabbed on the snapped off terminals, if you have or get the wired version it's not a issue. I didn't mention sealing with glue before cos its long winded, fitting these switches is diy right! Make the connections good and make as waterproof as possible, like you see in the pics i covered the connector and wire with heat shrink, don't snap them off cover them with heat shrink, do what suits you!
I also solder the bare wires before crimping on the spade connector, that's the better way to do it, if you don't have a soldering iron then you will just have to crimp or get a soldering iron! I always use heat shrink, many do not. I have extensive knowledge of general electrical work and that how I fit a switch my own personal way. I Could have gone further and soldered the wire straight into the terminal and coved with heat shrink for a true waterproof seal but i didn't because I didn't want to risk melting the internal parts or soldering.
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Yes if your replacing an original switch that is faulty, but 9 times out of 10 these switches are used to upgrade no kill cord switches which are much smaller, like I said very rarely do original fitted kill switches fail, generally it's old outboard owners wanting a kill switch fitted and old rib and speedboat control boxes that because their original has been exposed to the elements for some time it has failed or often their control box is refurb or self build using secondhand used or pattern switches and although the original pattern ones were ok they still had a limited life if used for a few years in a harsh environment, And I realised that even these pattern universal kill switches are being produced as a copy of a copy/pattern part whatever you chose to call them. . .
And like I said the current universal (but often sold as Yamaha, Mercury etc. .) pattern/copy kill switches in circulation are junk and not fit for purpose, so I was just informing you all! As one I fitted come back within 2 weeks and when I pulled it apart I realised it was not the same as the others I used over the last years and I had been done! They are not same as the other ones I brought and used over the last few years (like hundreds of other people have done likewise!) those ones were fine! And were sold by many online Marine chandlers, As people have been using and fitting them for a good few years, so attention everyone!! there is now a junk copy of the chinease universal kill switches on eBay and Amazon!. . . . Thanks lee!
And I did not buy the £2.50 or so ones I paid £6.50 for the ones I thought were the same as usual and the ones that are sold by chandlers and uk sellers for £19.99-29.00 yes I order direct from a Chinese seller my mistake and I got done, BUT I posted to give everyone the heads up and look at the nonsense that was posted about me! I posted it for general heads up!!! Apologies needed I think!!
And my final word is this, the past pattern switches are ok, no reported deaths to date right!! Time to avoid them now though and get a genuine switch from the main dealer is £40 really worth the risk!
We all get sucked in right £40 for a switch when they are now £2.50 on eBay and Amazon and EVERY listing has many many sold!
Non kill switch off switches that were the same switch used by all outboard manufactures 1970's to mid 1990 (when I believe kill switches were made mandatory )available as a Chinese pattern or copy what ever you want to call them, also just as risky, imagine if it fails and you can't turn off your engine! (Pull out the choke)
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