Carling Contura switch wiring

[spartacus]

I've just finished installing navigation lights on my Ribcraft 4.8m. I want them to work with a Carling on/off switch. Half the battle was installing the switch. I hate cutting into the console at the best of times, but it's done now and looks neat. Sounds simple enough, but when I've connected everything together the navigation lights illuminate, (battery isolator switched on) but the navigation lights still continue to illuminate when switched off.

The Carling switch is a straight forward on/off switch. It has three terminals (spade points) underneath. My boat also has a BlueSea battery isolator fitted.

Here's how I've done it.

+tive feed from battery isolator to Carling switch (includes inline fusebox with 5amp fuse). From here the wiring runs to both +tive terminals on navigation lights.

-tive feed from battery terminal to both navigation lights (-tive spade terminals). From here the wiring runs direct to the Carling switch.

The Carling switch didn't come with any instructions (and took 6 weeks to arrive - but that's a different story.)

Do all three terminals need to be used on the Carling switch? I'm a complete no-hoper when it comes to electrics... so any help appreciated.

[Jizm]

Do the switches illuminate?
Got any pics of the back of the switches as there are different types.

[martini]

Try swapping one of the wires in the back of the switch to the 3rd(spare) terminal. Sounds like you're using the wrong two terminals.

[Erin]

Originally Posted by spartacus

From here the wiring runs direct to the Carling switch.

I don't understand this bit. You shouldn't have the negative running back to the switch.

On the Carling you should be using only the middle terminal and one of the outer two. Which one you choose to use just changes which way the switch has to be for it to be on.

+ from batt to isolator to fuse to centre terminal of switch. Red wire then from side terminal of switch to nav lts. Black wire from minus terminal on nav lts back to battery. You will also need to connect battery neg to small neg wire in carling light to allow the light to operate.

[Rokraider]

Basic Circuit Function | carlingtech.com

†his should help. Also the Carling switches operate in the American fashion of up for on.
The 2 earth connectors at the top of the switch are earths for the illumination and activation bulbs on the switch. You should have the navlights earthed to the earth circuit from your battery.

If anyone wants Carling Contura II switches, these guys carry a good range in stock, plus all the plugs and connectors. They offer a very good service.

http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/Carling_Switches.shtml

[Downhilldai]

+1 for mudstuff

[Mollers]

+2

[spartacus]

Thanks for the replies. I ordered the Carling Contura single mount from Mudstuff. It came within a day or two - so fantastic service.

Right back to the drawing board. The Ribcraft console is as tight as a gnat's chaff. I was looking at it again last night and did a bit of adjustment, but still no success.

I double-checked the switch - and I've posted pictures. The Carling switch has four spade terminals on the reverse, not three as I'd originally remembered. Not the best picture - I know, but you get the general idea. Two spade terminals are at the top, and the other two are in-line on the left hand side. The white stuff isn't expanding foam - it's just a little Sikaflex. To avoid confusion (on my part), can we agree terminal top left is (1), top right is (2) and the lower spade terminals are (3) and finally (4) at the bottom left.

I did as you suggested Erin, and have run a black wire direct from the battery -tive to both navigation lights in sequence.

A red wire connects both navigation lights in sequence and runs through a small-fuse box with 5 amp fuses. Again spade to be confirmed prior to connecting to switch?

There's a small gauge red wire from the battery isolator which will need to attach to the switch. Spade to be confirmed?

You will also need to connect battery neg to small neg wire in carling light to allow the light to operate.

Can you confirm which spade this would attach to on the switch?

Thanks

[mick]

Originally Posted by Mollers

+2

+3 top bloke is Kevin at mudstuff very helpful

[Rokraider]

On the switch, each contact (tab) has a number by it, if you wire it up as follows, it should work:

Power in (+) in at tab 2
Power out to Nav lights tab 3
Earth is tab 7
Back Light power (+) tab 8 (if you want the switch to illuminate at night, pick up a (+) from the lighting circuit. Alternatively you can jump a feed from No. 2 and it will always light up when you turn the power on.

Number 3 is linked internally to power on light (small bar).

Hope this helps

[Erin]

Are those battery isolators waterproof? They're normally mounted in a sheltered position.

[kerny]

Originally Posted by Erin

Are those battery isolators waterproof? They're normally mounted in a sheltered position.

I thought the same, but didn't say nowt cos I wasn't sure ...

[ashbypower]

You say BOTH nave light!! there should be 3 where is your allround white??
Also as far as i can recall the isolator is not waterproof !!

[Dirk Diggler]

I thought the Isolator was IP67 rated

[martini]

Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler

I thought the Isolator was IP67 rated

Those are IP66 - protected against powerful water jets.

Sent from my portable speaking device using Rib.net

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by ashbypower

You say BOTH nave light!! there should be 3 where is your allround white??

Patience, patience.

I have a draft plan for a 6' bespoke stainless steel light pole to be fitted on the transom, complete with all round LED white light and platform for my Metz antenna. Only on hold due to a lack of funds. The same company that make the Avon MOD alloy lightpoles are going to fabricate it.

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by Erin

Are those battery isolators waterproof? They're normally mounted in a sheltered position.

There's a plastic housing goes over the back of the battery isolator which was removed to install wiring. It's bone dry... and I jet wash the boat after I've been out. When I fitted it, it was a snug fit to start, and waterproof seal applied with Sikaflex.

[spartacus]

Thank you Rokraider and Erin.

Navigation lights are now working, and switch illuminates on and goes off.