noobie with outboard questions

[Bieny]

Hi, just found the forum and have been reading for hours!
I have just bought a 4m Tidalwave sib that im going to collect tomorrow (very excited) and I will be using a 25hp mariner 2 stroke. I plan to take the boat to france on holiday for the summer but the outboard is long shaft and has previously been on remote controls. I want to change to a tiller but I have a few questions;

1. Can/should I keep the electric start system or just use the pull start?

2. Where do these wires go?!

they are hanging out the front of the engine, ive go the engine started with none of them connected but I had no way to switch it off.

3. is it safe to make a plate to raise the transom 5"? Something like this: http://www.marineengine.com/products...php?in=3430218

any help would be much appreciated!

[jyasaki]

1) I liked the electric start on my Honda 40. Lots easier than pulling the cord. You do have the battery that has to be charged and perhaps replaced on occasion, but it also allows you to run a GPS and VHF without always replacing alkaline batteries or charging both of those. And, you always have the option of pulling the cover and pull starting anyway.

2) No idea. No experience with Mariners. Sorry.

3) You sure your boat doesn't take a long shaft? My Achilles 14 did. I'm not sure I would trust aluminum unless it was a seriously heavy gauge (that said, my current F115 is mounted on a pod built out of 1/4" plate.) It would be easy enough to have someone build the same thing out of fairly stout stainless, which would make me feel better. 5" will create a pretty good arm for the motor to act on; make sure the extension is adequately rigid, and really well secured. And, make sure you seal up any mounting holes so you don't get rot.

Luck;

jky

[Bieny]

thanks for the reply, I would also like to keep the electric start - when i figure out the wiring i will add a switch to the front panel. With regards to the battery charging - does the outboard have an alternator or is it a total loss system?

Also i will make the transom plate from stainless steel plate, thanks for the tip on sealing the holes - what's the best method?

[tinker]

IMO Two of the wires will be to energize the starter solenoid and the other two the stop signal (an earth and the the stop wire)

[m chappelow]

unless you have thought about it ,its not a bad idea fitting a kill switch between the stop wire and earth ,for what they cost its worth it not to kill yourself or some one else ,if using just the boat with a tiller and no other electrics ,ie fitted radio or nav lights ect i wouldent bother with electric start ,you will have more bother with the battery than its worth on a small boat .with regards to a stainless transom plate make sure the engine when clamped on wont be able to twist its self off .as with a smooth stainless face the clamps have nothing to bite on ,it wont come off when going straight but with full engine lock it could slide off,i have seen it done a couple of times ,and tie it on too . good luck mart

[Bieny]

Just got back from collecting the boat, can't wait to get it on the water.
The wiring makes sense now, i'll try it tomorrow thanks tinker. I have read else where that running the engine without a battery would have damaged the rectifier?

As for the transom I will use the knurled plates that were on the original transom on the stainless plate.

[jyasaki]

If it has electric start, it will have an alternator. No other connections; hook up the battery leads and you're energizing the motor and hooking the battery to the alternator output.

You should not disconnect the battery from the motor while it's running. It can create an overvoltage situation that can blow diode packs.

Enjoy the boat;

jky