200 Etec - Stalling at low speed

Tarbh · 31 March 2012, 21:52

I went out for the first run of the season the other day...(with fresh fuel!).

After a good warm up, then a WOT run, i slowed down to enter a speed restricted area...my engine laboured then stalled!.

It then wouldn't start, and only re-started after a couple of minutes when i had it in nuetral with quite a lot of throttle...

It ran fine after that, with no problems.

It happened again when i was at slow speed and wouldn't restart until i put it neutral with quite high revs...

...again once it started, i put the throttle back to idle, engaged gear and it ran fine.

There were no audible codes when the engine stalled, and once it restarts it seems fine.

...any ideas?, it will be going in for a service shortly, but it would good to try and understand what the problem may be.
2005 Big block 200Hp, prior to this it always started fine with just one crank of the engine.
The engine had been started on muffs about 3 weeks before, with no apparent problems...

Thanks John

Chris · 31 March 2012, 22:13

My 150 E-tec used to stall at idle when the plugs needed changing...

Would certainly check them if they are over 100 hours old. THey will normally last a maximum of 150 hours before they start to cause promlems..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tarbh

I went out for the first run of the season the other day...(with fresh fuel!).

After a good warm up, then a WOT run, i slowed down to enter a speed restricted area...my engine laboured then stalled!.

It then wouldn't start, and only re-started after a couple of minutes when i had it in nuetral with quite a lot of throttle...

It ran fine after that, with no problems.

It happened again when i was at slow speed and wouldn't restart until i put it neutral with quite high revs...

...again once it started, i put the throttle back to idle, engaged gear and it ran fine.

There were no audible codes when the engine stalled, and once it restarts it seems fine.

...any ideas?, it will be going in for a service shortly, but it would good to try and understand what the problem may be.
2005 Big block 200Hp, prior to this it always started fine with just one crank of the engine.
The engine had been started on muffs about 3 weeks before, with no apparent problems...

Thanks John

Tarbh · 02 April 2012, 19:19

Thanks Chris.

I'll take a look at the plugs in the next couple of days...once the forecasted snow disappears!!...

Tris · 02 April 2012, 22:12

etec plugs, make sure they go in the same directions, electrodes have to point the same way

jyasaki · 03 April 2012, 00:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tris

etec plugs, make sure they go in the same directions, electrodes have to point the same way

Called "indexing", if you want more info on what Tris was talking about.

jky

Chris · 08 April 2012, 22:21

Yes the open side of the electrode has to be within 90 degrees each side of of the injector and in an ideal world the closer you can get it the better.

Let me know if you need to know any more details as I have done a few !

Tris · 14 April 2012, 22:14

Is it right you can use a few plugs to get them to line up right? do you mark on the white on the plug where the open electrode is before inatlling

gotchiguy · 14 April 2012, 22:19

Make a felt tip mark on the spark plug being removed and another in line with it on the engine block. Take the plug out, copy the felt tip mark placement from the old plug onto the new plug and make sure to line it up with the mark on the block. Done!

Boats&Outboards · 14 April 2012, 22:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotchiguy

Make a felt tip mark on the spark plug being removed and another in line with it on the engine block. Take the plug out, copy the felt tip mark placement from the old plug onto the new plug and make sure to line it up with the mark on the block. Done!

Assuming the current plug is indexed correctly of course

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007

Chris · 15 April 2012, 07:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotchiguy

Make a felt tip mark on the spark plug being removed and another in line with it on the engine block. Take the plug out, copy the felt tip mark placement from the old plug onto the new plug and make sure to line it up with the mark on the block. Done!

If you were re-using the same plugs then yes. NOT if you are fitting new ones however as you will never get the plugs to match up exactly. And you don't know where the current plugs are indexed they might be right at the limit either way!

You mark the plugs by drawing a line on the white section that matches the open side of the electrode.

Then follow these instructions.

http://www.boatsetup.com/PlgIndex.pdf

If you look on your etec you should be able to see the deflection pin just next to the spark plug this is what you are lining the plug up to.

I have indexed numerous plugs and never needed to bin any yet.

Just take them up to 15lb's with the torque wrench and if they are out side the zone then swap them to the other side and they should work.

MarkM · 15 April 2012, 09:04

Doing this for many years by now.
On each plug there's a ring. From the old plugs I take the rings off. With a Dremel I abrade the rings to different thicknesses. Say 1/3 to 2/3 of a millimeter. I use these rings to adjust the new plugs, leaving the new rings in place naturally.
Use these abraded rings over and over again. This works out fine and you don't need to use these rings on all the plugs. Only when indexing is way off.
I use the Champion QC12PEP plugs for my Evinrude 250 DI and they are very expensive.
Therefore I order them in the USA at Sparkplug.com, 24 pieces at the time. Only costs $168 and no shipping en no Tax.

GordyP · 17 April 2012, 09:02

I do hope that its your spark plugs, the symptoms sounds exactly like the injectors being fouled with water. Check your fuel filter to make sure its clean.

Chris · 17 April 2012, 14:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkM

Doing this for many years by now.
On each plug there's a ring. From the old plugs I take the rings off. With a Dremel I abrade the rings to different thicknesses. Say 1/3 to 2/3 of a millimeter. I use these rings to adjust the new plugs, leaving the new rings in place naturally.
Use these abraded rings over and over again. This works out fine and you don't need to use these rings on all the plugs. Only when indexing is way off.
I use the Champion QC12PEP plugs for my Evinrude 250 DI and they are very expensive.
Therefore I order them in the USA at Sparkplug.com, 24 pieces at the time. Only costs $168 and no shipping en no Tax.

Adding shims may void your warranty as in the E-tec service manual they specifically say don't.