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Old 18 November 2020, 09:41   #61
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Originally Posted by craig_c View Post
What do you recommend for the slicer software?
Nice work!

I use Ultimaker Cura

Edit: Yep, free for personal use from their site here...

https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
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Old 18 November 2020, 10:10   #62
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WOW! I can't believe how easy this is. Took me 5 attempts to get the bed levelling right but after 30 mins now the first print is still going.

Thanks for the tips! I definately would have been stuck without them
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Old 18 November 2020, 10:50   #63
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The worst thing is if you are separated from your printer and NEEEED a certain part, its so frustrating to need something of a certain dimension and have to do it the old fashioned way with duct tape!
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Old 18 November 2020, 13:14   #64
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I’ve been following this thread with interest, being an “old skool” maker of stuff, routers, lathes, welders are my go to tools. I am however intrigued by the possibilities that 3D printing throw up. But just a quick question, how strong & robust are the parts that can be printed by the amateur with “hobby” kit?
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Old 18 November 2020, 14:03   #65
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But just a quick question, how strong & robust are the parts that can be printed by the amateur with “hobby” kit?
The machine builds up the work in layers, usually between .08 and .32 of a mm. That makes for distinct stratification and therefore weakness in the horizontal plane.

For example if you make a bar where the work is a series of circles places one on top of the other - it will be easy to snap. Whereas if you make it lying down, so the layers pass along the length then it will be far stronger.

As mentioned earlier in the thread if something needs to be strong then I will use another material such as aluminium and the 3D printed parts will be to make a snug fit. I commonly work to 0.05 of a mm, so when something fits it really becomes a thing of elegance.
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Old 18 November 2020, 14:32   #66
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Laughing my head off here, this is a really great thing

Picked up a second hand machine and one afternoon later I have a finished useable GPS mount

The tips were superb. Tinkercad is wonderful

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Old 18 November 2020, 15:04   #67
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Just throwing in here as you know I was interested in building a console printed that is, the op Simon did a cad drawing for me ( thanks si) I sent it off to a local firm £500 ish delivered si did the same quote was £4000 ish but said it wasn't printable so I chased another company they said the same so it has limitations especially with voids even if the £500 firm could achive it for what it is at this time it's expensive but still very interesting there's a vid of them printing a boat God knows how much for it mind hope it takes off though every day a school day
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Old 18 November 2020, 15:42   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
I’ve been following this thread with interest, being an “old skool” maker of stuff, routers, lathes, welders are my go to tools. I am however intrigued by the possibilities that 3D printing throw up. But just a quick question, how strong & robust are the parts that can be printed by the amateur with “hobby” kit?
use the right material and tune it right and you can make some surprisingly strong bits, i used an engineering nylon and ended with a part that survived my design teacher running it over
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Old 18 November 2020, 16:55   #69
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3D Printing Help

I'm the lead design engineer for a 3D printing company. My advice for people wanting to do their own printing is:

- Fusion 360 is easily the most powerful free CAD package, and not particularly hard to learn (though the terms of the personal license has changed recently).
- Cura is a relatively intuitive slicer, with plenty of printer presets and material profiles readily available.
- All3DP (https://all3dp.com/) is an extremely helpful magazine to get you started.
- Creality printers are a good affordable place to start, with a massive user base and loads of tips, tricks and printable upgrades for them.
- PLA is the best material to learn with; it's really forgiving and cheap(ish). However, it won't do well in "dashboard" conditions (hot or in direct sunlight) as it will warp.

For parts that are going to be exposed to the weather, like on RIBs, material selection is super important. The materials I would be more inclined to use are only usually printed on more industrial machines e.g. ASA and nylon.

If there are bits people want printing I'll happily give feedback or a quote for your parts!
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Old 22 November 2020, 15:41   #70
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I think I've got PLA sussed. I've ordered grey, white and gold PLA as I have found my temp settings to be

212 Nozzle, 60 bed and a good dose of hairspray.

My PLA is of unknown age, it just came with the machine so I am burning it up making various test's of keyrings and redbays!



I did have a go with the ABS that came with the machine and it was a disaster! seemed to stick well to the bed at 110 degrees, my little ender 3 took forever to get up to that however I had lots of defects, super brittle and the raft fell out about 5% into the print.
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Old 22 November 2020, 16:05   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craig_c View Post
Hey Obsidian, awesome recommendation. Tinkercad is definately more my level!

Allready started. I have a few old chartplotters lying around without mounts so that has been my first project.

What do you recommend for the slicer software?

Tinkercad is great until dimensions become important. Spacing, rounding corners to specific radius etc is hard to do on it.

For slicer - cura! It has an ender 3 profile that you can use straight away! The ender is a great bit of kit, but be prepared to tinker with it!
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Old 22 November 2020, 16:15   #72
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Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
I’ve been following this thread with interest, being an “old skool” maker of stuff, routers, lathes, welders are my go to tools. I am however intrigued by the possibilities that 3D printing throw up. But just a quick question, how strong & robust are the parts that can be printed by the amateur with “hobby” kit?


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My printer cost less than £200, here’s a few things I’ve printed. The mp3 adaptor will have the thing mounted at my knees but the screen will be angled towards me.

The red handle is for my lawnmower grass basket - I tried to snap it over my knee and couldn’t get it to flex.

The last one is just a drawing which I have since printed and I’ll have 2 holding my barbell for squats... it’s amazingly strong.

You can choose how solid your print is - 10% will have a weak honeycomb structure inside, or 80% will be 80% solid - you get the idea. You can choose how thick the walls are before the centre filling starts etc. You can make some really robust parts, or some really lightweight ones! The more robust, the stronger the print. The squat rack brackets took 11hrs each

What i love about it is for things like the bluetooth stereo bracket... pre 3d printing, i'd have just slapped it in with a bit of plywood and it would have looked awful! My new VHF is smaller than my old one, so i've also printed a plate which holds the new one and covers the previous hole - you'd never think that was its purpose!
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Old Yesterday, 02:55   #73
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Well played Simon

Great work!
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