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Old 01 May 2017, 09:30   #11
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Country: UK - England
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Surely if I buy a complete steering kit with the cable included I could fit it? Unless there is more to it than nuts and bolts and tracing a heavy cable??

There's certainly not any writing on the outboard end, but I don't have good access or view to the cable at the console end... I'll take another look when I get a chance
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Old 01 May 2017, 09:41   #12
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Quote:
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Surely if I buy a complete steering kit with the cable included I could fit it? Unless there is more to it than nuts and bolts and tracing a heavy cable??

There's certainly not any writing on the outboard end, but I don't have good access or view to the cable at the console end... I'll take another look when I get a chance
You only need the length of the cable if your fitting helm and cable together that's why it's easier to do both together as it avoids compatibility issues
Measure from big nut on engine to the fitting that goes into the helm and that's your length
Then just ensure the system is rated above your hp and I'd go for a no feedback system (I think most are now but worth checking)
Before you order check you can get your wheel off the taper slacken the nut back till its level with the end of the threads and pull hard on the wheel while someone gives the nut a sharp smack with a hammer.
If you can't get it off you can buy a kit which includes the steering wheel too which is cheaper than buying separate
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Old 01 May 2017, 11:00   #13
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I'd replace everything. It all looks very old.

Having a helm or steering cable fail at speed is extremely scary.
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Old 01 May 2017, 13:17   #14
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I'd replace everything. It all looks very old.

Having a helm or steering cable fail at speed is extremely scary.
I agree and that's my thinking too.

For the sake of about £130 it seems the most sensible thing to do.
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Old 02 May 2017, 17:00   #15
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I have a teleflex NFB (no feedback) helm and cable sat in my workshop in excellent condition if you want to make me an offer. I think it's a 13ft cable so may be a bit long but it is easy enough to measure your existing one. The cable was brand new 2-3 years ago and did about 5 trips out over 8 months before the engine blew. I massively upgraded the power so went hydraulic and it's sat on a shelf ever since. If it fits, I'm open to offers.

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Old 03 May 2017, 00:47   #16
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I have a teleflex NFB (no feedback) helm and cable sat in my workshop in excellent condition if you want to make me an offer. I think it's a 13ft cable so may be a bit long but it is easy enough to measure your existing one. The cable was brand new 2-3 years ago and did about 5 trips out over 8 months before the engine blew. I massively upgraded the power so went hydraulic and it's sat on a shelf ever since. If it fits, I'm open to offers.

Phil M
Phil, when I'm next at the boat I'll have a measure but I think the cable is around 8' at a guesstimate. I do need to measure it.
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Old 04 May 2017, 04:00   #17
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Before you order check you can get your wheel off the taper slacken the nut back till its level with the end of the threads and pull hard on the wheel while someone gives the nut a sharp smack with a hammer.
That's the most important bit & often forgotten.
In addition to giving the end of the threads some protection it stops the wheel suddenly releasing & smacking the puller in the face!
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Old 04 May 2017, 08:57   #18
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A new kit would come with a new wheel, so id not be overly concerned if it doesn't come off... There's always a hacksaw. From the kits I've seen, the whole wheel and mechanism is replaced along with the cable. Is that not correct?


But I'm sure removing this wheel is like removing one from an older car... a total pig to start then SMACK.. wheel meets unexpecting face!
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Old 04 May 2017, 15:13   #19
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RIBase
I invested in a gear puller which makes separating the wheel from the taper very simple. I couldn't separate mine at all with the brute force approach but the puller worked immediately.
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Old 05 May 2017, 01:44   #20
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heat the boss up with a heat gun if its suborn the expansion can help break them apart
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