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Old 01 May 2017, 03:43   #1
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Country: UK - England
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Steering advice - Technical Issue

*Technical issue* even!!!

Wonder if anyone can help..

Took my rib out for the first time yesterday and had steering issues. 4.9m Lifeguard Equipment Ltd 1996 (Tornado) with 60hp 2 stroke Mercury.

When I bought it a week or so ago steering was tested and was smooth and faultless. On the water yesterday the steering was excessively heavy and at times felt like it "locked out" with an inability (or severe issues) to manoeuvre at slow speed.

Need less to say I then decided to put it back on the trailer and that was also a mission with limited steerage!!

Being new to boat ownership can anyone give any advice on where to start looking for a fault finding mission?

Anyone in Kent recommended perhaps to take a look??

Cheers

Ian
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Old 01 May 2017, 03:46   #2
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Need to know if it's cable or hydraulic? Pictures would help
Maybe disconnecting the link arm to the engine would be a good start point to rule out issues with the engine itself which is unlikely as it's usually the steering mech itself
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Old 01 May 2017, 04:57   #3
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It's a hydraulic system to my knowledge, but then I am new to this!!

Looks quite worn and corroded to be fair... and I have no idea on where I could top up any fluid??? It appears to be a mechanical unit so I'm guessing the fluid would be self contained? Any suggestions?
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Old 01 May 2017, 05:49   #4
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That's cable steering
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Old 01 May 2017, 06:24   #5
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That shows you how much I know then!!
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Old 01 May 2017, 06:24   #6
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That cable looks like its kinked to me..?

Maybe the source of your problem
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Old 01 May 2017, 06:28   #7
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Easiest option is complete helm and cable kit around 100 then your fully sorted
You can buy separate but pointless for a safety related item
Cable is fine for 60hp so not worth the expense and hassle of hydraulic
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Old 01 May 2017, 06:31   #8
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That sounds like a fair and sensible suggestion... any recommendations on where to get one??
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Old 01 May 2017, 06:44   #9
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Asap, Bainbridge , aqua fax most online chandlers will do steering and cable kits
Measure cable length from nut to nut if it's not marked on the cable
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Old 01 May 2017, 08:18   #10
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The cable will have a code normally printed in white at either the engine or back of the steering end ( or close to the end ) you will need those numbers if you plan to do it yourself.
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Old 01 May 2017, 08:30   #11
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Surely if I buy a complete steering kit with the cable included I could fit it? Unless there is more to it than nuts and bolts and tracing a heavy cable??

There's certainly not any writing on the outboard end, but I don't have good access or view to the cable at the console end... I'll take another look when I get a chance
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Old 01 May 2017, 08:41   #12
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Quote:
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Surely if I buy a complete steering kit with the cable included I could fit it? Unless there is more to it than nuts and bolts and tracing a heavy cable??

There's certainly not any writing on the outboard end, but I don't have good access or view to the cable at the console end... I'll take another look when I get a chance
You only need the length of the cable if your fitting helm and cable together that's why it's easier to do both together as it avoids compatibility issues
Measure from big nut on engine to the fitting that goes into the helm and that's your length
Then just ensure the system is rated above your hp and I'd go for a no feedback system (I think most are now but worth checking)
Before you order check you can get your wheel off the taper slacken the nut back till its level with the end of the threads and pull hard on the wheel while someone gives the nut a sharp smack with a hammer.
If you can't get it off you can buy a kit which includes the steering wheel too which is cheaper than buying separate
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Old 01 May 2017, 10:00   #13
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I'd replace everything. It all looks very old.

Having a helm or steering cable fail at speed is extremely scary.
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Old 01 May 2017, 12:17   #14
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I'd replace everything. It all looks very old.

Having a helm or steering cable fail at speed is extremely scary.
I agree and that's my thinking too.

For the sake of about 130 it seems the most sensible thing to do.
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Old 02 May 2017, 16:00   #15
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I have a teleflex NFB (no feedback) helm and cable sat in my workshop in excellent condition if you want to make me an offer. I think it's a 13ft cable so may be a bit long but it is easy enough to measure your existing one. The cable was brand new 2-3 years ago and did about 5 trips out over 8 months before the engine blew. I massively upgraded the power so went hydraulic and it's sat on a shelf ever since. If it fits, I'm open to offers.

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Old 02 May 2017, 23:47   #16
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I have a teleflex NFB (no feedback) helm and cable sat in my workshop in excellent condition if you want to make me an offer. I think it's a 13ft cable so may be a bit long but it is easy enough to measure your existing one. The cable was brand new 2-3 years ago and did about 5 trips out over 8 months before the engine blew. I massively upgraded the power so went hydraulic and it's sat on a shelf ever since. If it fits, I'm open to offers.

Phil M
Phil, when I'm next at the boat I'll have a measure but I think the cable is around 8' at a guesstimate. I do need to measure it.
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Old 04 May 2017, 03:00   #17
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Before you order check you can get your wheel off the taper slacken the nut back till its level with the end of the threads and pull hard on the wheel while someone gives the nut a sharp smack with a hammer.
That's the most important bit & often forgotten.
In addition to giving the end of the threads some protection it stops the wheel suddenly releasing & smacking the puller in the face!
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Old 04 May 2017, 07:57   #18
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A new kit would come with a new wheel, so id not be overly concerned if it doesn't come off... There's always a hacksaw. From the kits I've seen, the whole wheel and mechanism is replaced along with the cable. Is that not correct?


But I'm sure removing this wheel is like removing one from an older car... a total pig to start then SMACK.. wheel meets unexpecting face!
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Old 04 May 2017, 14:13   #19
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I invested in a gear puller which makes separating the wheel from the taper very simple. I couldn't separate mine at all with the brute force approach but the puller worked immediately.
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Old 05 May 2017, 00:44   #20
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heat the boss up with a heat gun if its suborn the expansion can help break them apart
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