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Old 08 September 2006, 16:46   #31
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yes it should be higher, less drag, when going for the max
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Old 08 September 2006, 16:49   #32
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You could also trim your skeg a bit for an extra 2 Kn mph
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Old 09 September 2006, 05:44   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster
Do you guys mean you are running the engines much higher than the normal arrangement of the cavitation plate being level with the base of the hull? How does that work then?

Not trying to start an argument or anything, just curious as to why it works
my osprey had its 150 optimax set of centre 50mm to right and was set 80mm higher on transom than i expected it to go, run a treet at that tho
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Old 09 September 2006, 07:31   #34
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At the risk if this thread getting far too technical for a saturday morning!!!.


Congratulations Richard! I know your going to be happy with this one!!
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Old 09 September 2006, 16:21   #35
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Guys
Great comments and contributions on this thread. I am sure most of you will agree that the info given has been of interest to most of us and in particular to those who have had some experience with the Verado outboards or perhaps considering such for their next rib

One must remember however that each hull is different and the results here provided will not necessary apply to another hull even of the same length.

as an example here is a photo taken during the recent Sopot Boat Show.

from the left we have a Parker 900 Baltic (twin Verado 250) then a Parker 900RS with the Mercruiser 4.2 (320HP) which is close to becoming Seahawk 5 and a Parker 750RS known as Seahawk 4. In the background Grand Hotel Sopot

Richard no doubt will be posting photos of his new rib and results of the first speed tests. We will for sure test a large range of props and select the best suited for that particular rib
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Old 09 September 2006, 17:03   #36
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It has to depend on the shape of the keel and the stream of water going to where the motors are placed, and varies with the water exit from the hull. I stand by my earlier point that these engines perform best when only 2/3rd of the prop is engaged, and acknowledge the fact that many dealers get it wrong by burying the leg in the water.

If you have enough trim on the transom slip shouldn't be a problem for take off, then tune/trim up as you get under way for the max
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Old 16 September 2006, 05:46   #37
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Maximus

Anyone tried the Maximus 5-blade? Searafting.no? Actioboat.dk?
Read a test in PowerBoat Mag and the Maximus seemed to be superior to the
Bravo One. Much better holeshot and about the same topspeed.
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Old 16 September 2006, 14:29   #38
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In the past we tested at least 8 different props. We are using the high five prop, and on our rib it's the best prop we have tested in every way.
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Old 19 September 2006, 04:01   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7075T6
Anyone tried the Maximus 5-blade? Searafting.no? Actioboat.dk?
Read a test in PowerBoat Mag and the Maximus seemed to be superior to the
Bravo One. Much better holeshot and about the same topspeed.
No I haven't try the maximus. I was playing with the 250 for speed.
Rev4-hydromotiv-Bravo1

but I work to much. so the config on my boats are revolution4 25* max speed 67kn. that fine for now. (nobudy is overtaken me jet)

BR Jan
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Old 19 September 2006, 13:31   #40
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My guess is that you wont see more top speed with a Maximus prop, you could try contact Brett at www.bblades.com he has been working for mercury prop department in the US and knows what he is taking about regarding props.

What you should do is to get your engines higher up on transom, that way you will pick up some extra knots.
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