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Old 15 March 2015, 23:52   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinyShoe View Post
I may be wrong but do people not usually bolt from outside to inside. Assume to reduce crud on the thread when time comes to remove?

Are they stainless? Look like zinc dipped? Should there be a large washer to spread the load properly...?

Is the other side also not flush or is the transoms cross section not a parallelogram but a trapezoid?
The bolt comes with a large washer. Both seem to be some sort of hard aluminum alloy (does not attract to magnet).

The other side of the transom is not flushed. It has a piece of plastic that's thicker at the top and thinner at the bottom. Does anyone know what the purpose is?



Anyway, I've seen dealers that bolt the engine directly on top of this plastic piece (with the exact same boat), so I'm doing the same.

I think Mercury recommends bolting from outside to inside (nut inside the transom). This seems to be a better arrangement to stop water coming from the outside into the transom core.

However, my Suzuki manual has the nut outside of the transom, so I'll do the same. Not sure if there's a reason for Suzuki to do that. Anyway, since I have that plastic piece, it seems bolting either way won't have much difference in terms of sealing effectiveness.
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Old 15 March 2015, 23:53   #62
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Originally Posted by ShinyShoe View Post
Good chance they are A2 stainless rather than A4 (316). Still stainless but may rust in salty water especially if surface gets damaged during install...
Thanks for bringing this up. It's a good thing I keep receipts. It's a double good thing that my progress is so slow so I haven't bolted anything permanently yet.

I will visit West Marine tomorrow and see if they have 316 stainless fasteners. Maybe that's why they are more expensive.
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Old 16 March 2015, 00:03   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_fisher View Post
I will visit West Marine tomorrow and see if they have 316 stainless fasteners. Maybe that's why they are more expensive.
I think most of West Marine hardware is labeled 8-18 and is from Fastco. 8-18 is 304 is A2. 316/A4, aka the good stuff, is hard to find.
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Old 16 March 2015, 00:58   #64
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I heard that 316 is necessary only if the part is constantly touching salt water. If I just use 304 for things like console and seat, would that be OK?
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Old 16 March 2015, 01:39   #65
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Amazon to the rescue:

316 Stainless Steel Hex Bolt, Plain Finish, Hex Head, External Hex Drive, Meets ASME B18.2.1, 1-3/4" Length, Partially Threaded, 1/4"-20 UNC Threads (Pack of 25): Cap Screws And Hex Bolts: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

This is the exact length I need. Most shops have either 1.5 or 2.0 inches, and they are partially threaded (only 0.75 inches of threads). The 1.5 inch is too short and the 2.0 inch is too long. It's good that Amazon carries the 1.75 inch!
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Old 16 March 2015, 01:45   #66
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By the way, for anyone drilling holes into fiberglass, this is a good read:

Sealing Deck Penetrations to Prevent Core Rot Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com
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Old 26 March 2015, 00:47   #67
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Not too much to report, but got into an interesting situation today.

I need to relocate the handle of the motor control box from port to starboard, and from the manual it seemed to be an easy job.

Step 1: remove some screws and a cover. Easy enough, done.

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Step 2: remove some more screws and strip one of them. That was easy too.

The manual says this screw need to be tightened with 2.9lbft torque. Maybe the screw had a lot of thread locker glue on it, in any case, it was much much more than 2.9lb. Suzuki compounded the problem by using very cheap soft screws. I was able to remove one of these screws very carefully, but ended up stripping the other one.

I finally gave up and drilled away the screw head. It's lucky I have a drill press, as I could have never done that with a hand drill without damaging the surrounding plastic.

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Now only the stump is left. I tried flattening it with a dremel tool and twisting it with a large spanner, but this bugger just won't budge.

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I'll soak it with wd40 overnight and see if it becomes loose tomorrow. If that won't work I'll just cut the stem away. Hopefully I won't need to relocate the handle back to the port side.
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Old 29 March 2015, 00:04   #68
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How did it go?
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Old 29 March 2015, 01:08   #69
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The WD40 did nothing. Probably the screw was further tightened when I drilled the head off. So I cut it.

The screws are metric and Home Depot doesn't have them. I bought two replacements from OSH for $2.69 apiece. Ouch.

And they are the wrong length so I had to cut them with an angle grinder and the carefully restore the threads at the tip.

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This is how it looked after being relocated to the other side.

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Old 29 March 2015, 20:48   #70
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The console is installed, and I added an aluminum plate to reinforce the steering helm. I thought about using it as a backing plate, but putting it on top of the plastic seems to be stronger.

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So I spent 2 hours polishing it to give it a brushed aluminum look. It probably is meaningless, and get scratched/oxidized soon, but for today it looks great!

I also bought a steering cable with the correct length (9ft). I bought a 10ft one before and it was sticking all outside of the tube. It's too much trouble to return, so I'll try to sell it on eBay instead.

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