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Old 06 March 2015, 16:30   #31
ncp
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This is one of drainage holes in my anchor lock. Some people will just us a q-tip and coat it, I chose to drill, fill, and re-drill.
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Old 07 March 2015, 01:43   #32
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This is one of drainage holes in my anchor lock. Some people will just us a q-tip and coat it, I chose to drill, fill, and re-drill.
I have 20 holes on the deck for the console and the seat. And I don't have access to under the deck. So it's hard to fill the holes and redrill. I'll use qtip to coat them ..

I will drill 4 more holes on the transom. Those I will try to fill and redrill. Any suggestion on how to fill these vertical holes and also avoid bubbles in the epoxy?
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Old 07 March 2015, 08:28   #33
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I will drill 4 more holes on the transom. Those I will try to fill and redrill. Any suggestion on how to fill these vertical holes and also avoid bubbles in the epoxy?
Thicken the epoxy into a paste with cabosil. If you don't want to go buy some (and West Marine over charges), I've heard of people thickening with talcum powder.
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Old 08 March 2015, 22:32   #34
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Drilled holes for the console. Added aluminum angles per advice of defender.com. Put everything together for a dry fit. Amazingly it fit the first time, thanks to my precision engineering method of cardboard templates. Tomorrow I'll add 3M 5200 to finish it.

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To prevent corrosion between the aluminum angles and the stainless bolts, I added flanged nylon washers so there is no contact between different metals

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Close up of the bolt and nylon washer

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Added a rubber boot for the steering and battery cable to go through.

Plenty of space on front of the console.

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Old 08 March 2015, 22:33   #35
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Rubber cable boot

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Old 08 March 2015, 22:40   #36
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Here are the toggle bolts. I pared off the tips so that I can do the dry fitting

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I haven't tightened the toggle bolts yet. Will tighten it at the final fitting after squirting lots of 5200 into the holes. I already q-tipped the holes with epoxy but it's probably too thin.

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Old 08 March 2015, 22:47   #37
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Drilled four holes on the transom. It wasn't easy with the motor already there, and also no template from Suzuki. There might be a template, but it didn't come with the motor and I am too lazy to ask for one.


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I decided to not raise the motor now. It will be slightly lower than the spec. I left enough space there so I can raise the motor by 3/4 inch later if the extra drag becomes an issue.

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The hole on the transom is aligned with the 2nd lowest hole on the motor. I can raise the motor later by moving down to the lowest one.
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Old 08 March 2015, 22:53   #38
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The cooler seat's base is too wide for my deck, so I removed it and build a new base using starboard.

Hollowed out the middle to save some weight.

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Counter-sunk the holes with a frostner bit to allow space for the bolt heads.
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Old 08 March 2015, 22:54   #39
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Old 09 March 2015, 21:08   #40
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Great progress so far! Any idea on where to mount the vhf ant?
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