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Old 28 April 2008, 22:31   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Easyrider View Post
understand that the race boys inflate them much harder than this though.
Perhaps, but it will drastically reduce the life expectancy by doing so. Some of the hardcore racers get a new hull every year or so from their sponsors, so they aren't too concerned about product durability.
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Old 29 April 2008, 04:31   #32
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I too would recommend the Bravo 12 inflater pump, I have got one after trying so many others & would say to any one it was money well spent! (but money wasted on all the rest!) One big benefit is setting the pump to the right pressure & switching on & being able to be getting on with other setting up jobs as it switches off then at the right pressure saves a lot of time!
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Old 29 April 2008, 06:05   #33
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I run my tubes at 7 psi when racing or 0.5bar and my h'jackers at 1 bar.
When for pleasure use I still keep the 1 bar underneath but release some pressure down to 5.5psi or 6 as it makes it slightly more comfortable. Also depends what conditions you run in and what your set up is like, some run higher pressure on flat water and then soften the tubes for more harsh surf racing etc.

If you need help with offsets on engine, slotting of the saddle holes, welding the saddle or and prop advice, feel free to PM me at any time. I have spare boats aswell if you want to go for a run.

Kind Regards


Tom
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Old 29 April 2008, 11:54   #34
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Tom - Can I ask how high your engine is off the transom?

At the moment mine is 40mm off the transom, it's definately too high
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Old 30 April 2008, 07:09   #35
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if you mind me asking what is the total load weight in Kg's, and what conditions do you normally run in? And what prop do you use?
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Old 30 April 2008, 16:55   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom View Post
if you mind me asking what is the total load weight in Kg's, and what conditions do you normally run in? And what prop do you use?
I'm 70KG and my GF is around 50KG I think
I've been told that my prop is a semi-cleaver powertech, but i'm not certain. IT's the normal stainless prop I got when I bought the boat from Mullacott Marine

Heres a pic:






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Old 01 May 2008, 04:34   #37
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Ok the best thing for you to do is to weld up your saddle. Im surprised that Ceasar doesnt do this as standard, as it is needed to strengthen everything up to stop any twisting over time. Also this gives you more adjustment as you can slot the top holes, meaning you can slide the engine up and down on the transome quite freely. Its also makes the bracket thicker by another 5mm, therefore you engine sits further back off the transome.

If you have any queries with this just PM me, I have pictures of how its done, if not I have a jig etc here and plenty of high grade ali and happy to help.

After this has been done, you should find for you, that having the engine 10mm high instead of your 40mm, with a 3mm spacer on the top bolts to bring a small amount of negative trim will work really well.

It looks like you have either a 15" or 16" Powertech. This is a good prop and with this set-up will run well on calm/flat water. A good prop for you with your weights and the new set-up would be a 14" Merc Vengence prop. Again if you need help sorting these out re working them etc send me a PM.

You will find also have a hydraulic damper that is also adjustable will really help and wont make you as tired. Also your spead is increased because your not fighting the engine the whole time. I am using my own unit that ive modified from a baystar/seastar unit. works really well and is small so doesnt get in the way. I use it for racing and you find at higher speeds, having full control of where the engine is going means you can fly straight and have more speed rather than fighting it.
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Old 01 May 2008, 05:00   #38
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Some photos for you:

Notice the 3m strip of metal next to the top bolts.
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Old 01 May 2008, 05:04   #39
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some more
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Old 01 May 2008, 07:26   #40
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looking at your photos more closely it appears your damper you already have on the engine is the type I used to run, these are actually Merc Sprinter van rear suspension shocks. Therefore they do rust with slat water. As a tip just keep it well greased so that inside it does not start to rust.

Also your transome goes to a lower level where the engine is mounted. where are you measuring your 40mm from. I have attached some pictures to help you with the currect set up...
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