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Old 19 July 2016, 16:40   #21
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I didn't see any leaking just there was water in the oil. Ya know looked like grey milk.
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Old 19 July 2016, 16:53   #22
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that could simply be moisture due to lack of oil change for x years or it could be leaking.

to do a pressure test buy a gearbox oil kit, it will come with a screw hose which you can attach a pump to somehow and put some pressure on it. i must admit i do not know what that pressure should be so someone else will need to answer that one.

as for your makeshift shaft test with a screwdriver, certainly a good start! that only proves not massively out though, we are looking for very small differences here. (i think 0.03 inch is the max recommended for mercury, i don't know about suzuki but i would imagine they are all similar as it is a spinning part after all)...check this out.



another one- (this guy heats up the shaft but need to be careful as that alone could kill the seals, TBH i wouldn't put heat on it as you couldn't get it hot enough to make any difference and keep the seals good, although i have never done this so happy to be wrong?)



And the leak test, you should also ideally pull a vacum too.

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Old 19 July 2016, 17:51   #23
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I ran a yamaha 85 for about 5 years with a bent shaft you could clearly see the shaft going up and down when you spun the prop it never ailed a thing and never let water in the boat used to get used 2 or 3 times a week too
Was still bent when I sold the boat and the new owner used it for several more seasons too
Personally I'd change the oil use it and make sure no other issues,the oil needs to be severely contaminated to start doing damage
Have a few trips with it and check again see if it does have water in again if it does get it sorted worst thing for a box that's had water in is to drain it and not refill it. The moisture needs oxygen to start corrosion
If it's going to stand for any long period change the oil and refill with clean oil untill you can get it fixed even engine oil is better than no oil whilst laid up awaiting repair
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Old 19 July 2016, 18:05   #24
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Last week it was cutting transoms and now advocating running with a clearly bent prop shaft...cmon now.

Note to self...never buy anything from beam
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Old 19 July 2016, 18:24   #25
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Yeah I figure start with the cheapest solution first. That would be changing the gear oil. After that I will see where I stand with the seals. I don't mind changing the seals when I do the impeller but I want to see if the motor is worth putting money into before I do. No use putting a new gearbox in the water only to have the power head blow up. Always a gamble with outboards. Salt water is amazingly destructive I am learning.
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Old 19 July 2016, 18:25   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamishken View Post
I ran a yamaha 85 for about 5 years with a bent shaft you could clearly see the shaft going up and down when you spun the prop it never ailed a thing and never let water in the boat used to get used 2 or 3 times a week too
Was still bent when I sold the boat and the new owner used it for several more seasons too
Personally I'd change the oil use it and make sure no other issues,the oil needs to be severely contaminated to start doing damage
Have a few trips with it and check again see if it does have water in again if it does get it sorted worst thing for a box that's had water in is to drain it and not refill it. The moisture needs oxygen to start corrosion
If it's going to stand for any long period change the oil and refill with clean oil untill you can get it fixed even engine oil is better than no oil whilst laid up awaiting repair

Did you at least tell the guy it was bent?
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Old 19 July 2016, 18:31   #27
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Did you at least tell the guy it was bent?
Yes I did, he knew the boat and used to ski with us and bought the boat when I traded up he knew it wasn't an issue as it had been like it for years
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Old 19 July 2016, 18:33   #28
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That's what I figure haha amazing that the gear box did not tear it's self apart. Was the prop just perfectly missing a chunk that it balanced out ha ha .
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Old 19 July 2016, 18:35   #29
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When you change the oil you *should* replace the small seals on the filler plugs. If you don't you still won't know if the leak is a small or bigger repair.

You'll find videos on YouTube of pressure testing the gearbox. It should be easy enough to tell if it's a big leak or a slow one.
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Old 19 July 2016, 18:38   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubrus View Post
Last week it was cutting transoms and now advocating running with a clearly bent prop shaft...cmon now.

Note to self...never buy anything from beam
Far too many people on here have a "can't do that" attitude when actually you can often do just that!
Not everyone has the money or time to get exactly the right thing but often there is a simple answer there that costs very little
The op here can refill his gearbox for less than a tenner and enjoy the remainder of the season when everyone's sat there saying no you can't do that! It's maybe not ideal but it gets him out boating
Your own post says mercs max recommended runout is 30thou you would clearly see 30thou
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