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Old 28 May 2013, 14:52   #71
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I didn't use any sikaflex as I believe that the gasket is more than up to the job of sealing water out and the holes are way above the waterline.
I think that's a bit brave!
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Old 28 May 2013, 15:08   #72
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The lowest hole is 100mm above the waterline, the wheels protect the area from and splashing and it a very substantial gasket that runs the whole length of the fitting so will be very evenly compressed. My transom is also perfectly flat to no less than 50mm from the lowest hole so the gasket will only be sealing flat surfaces within the areas of the holes. No mention of sealant in instructions either.

Bit like a head gasket on an engine that is fitted with no sealant - will last 100000+ miles and is under far greater pressure. But then some people will still use a sealant just in case.
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Old 30 May 2013, 13:59   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IanH View Post
The lowest hole is 100mm above the waterline, the wheels protect the area from and splashing and it a very substantial gasket that runs the whole length of the fitting so will be very evenly compressed. My transom is also perfectly flat to no less than 50mm from the lowest hole so the gasket will only be sealing flat surfaces within the areas of the holes. No mention of sealant in instructions either.

Bit like a head gasket on an engine that is fitted with no sealant - will last 100000+ miles and is under far greater pressure. But then some people will still use a sealant just in case.
I would have disagreed with you simply because of how easy it is to dab a little sika around it but having now fitted them I completely agree with you. No need for sealant, everything you say is right I would be very surprised if they let any water in.

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Old 01 June 2013, 13:27   #74
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In any application where I need a bolt to go through the transom which will sustain any significant load (such as outboard mountings and launching wheel mountings), I use a bronze sleeve.

The length of the sleeve is ground to precisely match the thickness of the transom and the inner diameter provides a snug fit for the bolt (always use stainless steel bolts!). The wall thickness of the sleeves are ~ 3-4mm.

The diameter of the hole through the transom is drilled so the sleeve fits snugly and needs to be lightly tapped in (have a cheap bolt within the sleeve while doing this so you are striking the bolt head rather than the sleeve edges). Prior to tapping the bolt in, line the hole through the transom with a proper marine sealant such as 3M 5200 (my preference - this is the permanent version) or sikaflex 291 (do not use just any sikaflex or it will eat away at the plywood). Prior to bolting up the launching wheels (or outboard) line the sleeve with a non permanent marine sealant such as 3M 4200.

Using this set up only adds about 10 minutes of extra work (if that) per hole and will ensure that the through transom bolt will not induce transom rot and will drastically reduce the mechanical load at the edges of the hole. Any abrasion due to vibration will occur between the bolt and the sleeve rather than from the bolt grinding directly against relatively soft edges of the hole in the transom, (which would continually widen the hole). No matter how many times you pull the bolt out or put it back in, it will not affect the transom.
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Old 01 June 2013, 14:51   #75
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I had previously read that you don't use bronze fasteners with stainless steel fittings due to galvanic corrosion.

Metals in a Marine Environment

The stainless steel in these wheels are specified V4A 1.4571 (316Ti) - assuming that salt water use was specified when ordering. As a result, the wheels are more noble than the brass and the brass would corrode.
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Old 01 June 2013, 15:20   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IanH View Post
I had previously read that you don't use bronze fasteners with stainless steel fittings due to galvanic corrosion.

Metals in a Marine Environment

The stainless steel in these wheels are specified V4A 1.4571 (316Ti) - assuming that salt water use was specified when ordering. As a result, the wheels are more noble than the brass and the brass would corrode.
Excellent link. You may want to double check for yourself, but it It says that stainless fasteners are fine with bronze (but not brass) fittings.
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Old 01 June 2013, 15:35   #77
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Irrespective of my bad swapping from bronze to brass mid post, the stainless is still more nobel than the bronze and the bronze will end up corroding. Ok, maybe it won't be for a good few years, but being an ex Landrover owner, I've learned the hard way what happens when different metals are in close contact with each other. The link clearly shows stainless steel fittings with stainless steel (or Monel) fasteners. 316 stainless to wood is pretty good corrosion wise, as long as the sea water does not get too warm.
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Old 01 June 2013, 16:40   #78
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No argument from me against using a 316 stainless sleeve with stainless bolts.
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Old 22 June 2013, 10:32   #79
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Fitted mine last week, I mounted them about 20mm lower than the installation instructions show. The bracket is flush with the bottom of the transom. This does give extra clearance between the wheels and bottom of the boat. My Honda 2hp Skeg does not contact the ground in the lowered position. The wheels appear robust and well made. I have the covers fitted to the tyres and the boat still fits in its bag. I will be trying them out in anger next month when I go on holiday.
Thank you to the guys recommending these wheels. I have used them for the first time this week. They are robust, so easy to use, sit very smartly in the retracted position and do not rattle when underway.
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Old 23 June 2013, 02:18   #80
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Not sure if these have been posted but they look like something that 007 would use:

Sealegs Patented Amphibious Technology
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