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Old 07 November 2012, 10:51   #11
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
Originally Posted by camelgas View Post
I have the means to cut and weld mild steel, so may give this a go and get it galvanized and then paint it so it blends in.
Not for use in salt water. And I'd personally stay away from galv mild steel in fresh water as well.

Go either SS or thick marine (5000 series) aluminum, or you'll find yourself with a rust colored transom and tube, and be back in the shop remaking the thing in a year or two.


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Old 07 November 2012, 13:40   #12
TomKat's Avatar
Country: Ireland
Town: Bangor
Boat name: Lencraft 4.8m
Make: Lencraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: DT55HP Suzuki
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 469
An Bombard Aerotec 420 takes a long shaft AFAIK.

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Old 08 November 2012, 02:30   #13
m chappelow's Avatar
Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,310
If anyone does happen to have a go at making something out of shiney stainless steel watch that the engine won't slide off when doing power turns ,

Once saw a near brand new engine slip off a rebuilt shiny stainless steel capped transom ,, the owner thought to omit the thin plywood board that the engine saddle beds onto ,,
was ok going forwards but when the owner turned , the engine clamps had nothing to bite on so the engine just twisted its self off and into the deep .
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Old 08 November 2012, 08:16   #14
Country: Ireland
Town: Tralee
Make: Tornado / Zodiac 3.1
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam F60/ Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 71
I work in metal fabrication,, Stainless steel is very hard to clamp as the surface is so hard. defiantly would not trust outboard clamps to hold on stainless,, bolting the outboard through the stainless be the only safe method
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Old 08 November 2012, 12:36   #15
Locozodiac's Avatar
Country: Other
Town: Lima-Peru
Boat name: Nautile
Make: Sea Rider Boats
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 /30 HP
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,706
You can cut and glue a large piece of tire bladder, PVC, to both sides of SS engine mount and secure a small rope between both clamp's eyes. If you can make them face each other well tight the better. Don't know why boaters always adjust both clamps tight and forget all about engine vibration issues loosening clamp tightness and losing engine.

Have seen careless boaters dropping main engines & aux into the blue from 3.5 to 30 HP, most irrecuperable due to waves, wake, not having marked dropping position fast enough or deep waters issues, some even being unaware having lost it's aux engines, a real engine crime indeed. You must always place a safety line between engine and boat, just in case...

Happy Boating
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Old 09 November 2012, 09:22   #16
Country: Canada
Town: Southern Ontario
Boat name: -Unknown-
Make: SeaMax
Length: 4m +
Engine: Merc/Minn Kota
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 216
Good thought. Though my transon is a general type (marine plywood coated over with fibreglass and steel engine mount plate), I have been considering mounting a through-bolt from the bottom of the engine bracket.

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