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Old 29 March 2016, 11:02   #11
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it would be interesting to see what difference it actually makes on the rise and fall on a sib engine height?
not that keen on the doel fin Neil if it worked significantly i think the manufactures would have changed the cav plate by now, when we fitted one we were right on the line for weight perhaps too much but that was then,but lift equals friction so top end must suffer.
if i had the splash problem i would fit a necklace of bristles like they use in fish filters or in gutters to stop birds getting in, above the waterline the bristles are close enough to stop the water passing light weight & cheap held with bungee cord
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Old 29 March 2016, 13:17   #12
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Aerotec transom splash issue.

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Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g View Post
it would be interesting to see what difference it actually makes on the rise and fall on a sib engine height?
Well in my humble opinion....lots. Plus or minus as little as 10mm either side of optimum can have a dramatic effect on performance and/or splashing.
Most boat/engine manuals usually state AV plate within 0 to 50mm below keel. With on water testing we usually end up with AV plate about 10mm lower than keel. This gives us good performance, no splashing, but occasional ventilation out of tight turns. It's always a compromise but this set up suits us for slight swell and chop....our usual conditions.
Obviously trim is also critical....we set this up so AV plate is as close to horizontal when on the plane.
Well worth a bit of effort/faffing to get this right as the performance gains can be surprising.
As Fenlander quite rightly mentions the Aerotec does seem to have its own unique set of splashing problems, although never had this come back into boat! Luckily, we seem to have virtually eliminated any excessive splashing with both our Suzuki and Tohatsu motors. I think the Suzuki lower leg profile with large AV plate, upper deflector plate and pointed leading edge really help negate the problems caused by the Aerotec deep V transom.
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Old 29 March 2016, 14:39   #13
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Hi chipko really interested in your findings re height have you got any figures.
I always set up strait on the transom top and second hole up on trim I don't suffer splash or cavitation but I might not be getting the best out of the rig any input helpful.

Cheers
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Old 29 March 2016, 15:20   #14
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On our aerotec the height is quite critical. Being a 420 version it takes a long shaft motor but it still needs exactly 30 mm of packing to stop the splashing, and if it's just me aboard then nothing stops the splashing completely. However, the transom on ours is considerably taller than a 380 so the splashing never finds it's way in.
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Old 29 March 2016, 16:31   #15
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So displacement makes quite a difference to the normal set up does trim compensate at all when single handed.
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Old 29 March 2016, 17:23   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g View Post
So displacement makes quite a difference to the normal set up does trim compensate at all when single handed.
No, nothing I can do with height or trim stops the splashing completely when 1 up.
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Old 30 March 2016, 06:45   #17
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Agreed. Even with a tiller extension I've not been able to get a level trim one-up and there is no doubt the splash was quite fierce with our Mercury last year in this situation.

Of course there are two elements to the splash... the amount that comes over the transom and the confused short rooster tail that fall harmlessly behind. With the Mercury last year we reduced 90% of the water over the transom with riser blocks but never lost the wake splash.

In the image below you can see with the Mercury on the left despite not having a fountain into the boat there is still an extra central spray that fills in the normal tapering V wake. This is rising to about the height of the outboard hood. On the right with the Suzuki this is pretty well non-existent.
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Old 30 March 2016, 07:21   #18
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David,

That's interesting. What height shim gave you the best result?
With the Tohatsu, I was using about 40mm last time out, and it was quite good in terms of splash, certainly no waterfall as with only a 20mm ish shim, not sure about the rooster tail. But, Certainly it had cavitation.

I just measured the Tohatsu shaft length and it's more like 18" compared to the Merc 17", so it kinda makes sense the Merc does not need such a large shim.

I also just measured two yammies, the 20hp SS is also 17", so hopefully the same size shim as the Merc will suffice. The 25hp ls, which will never now be used on the BAT 380, is about 22", which makes sense.

(I am sat here wondering if I will ever find a reasonably priced larger BAT, to justify keeping the 25 for!)
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Old 30 March 2016, 07:53   #19
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Do you know I've genuinely forgotten the final preferred shim size with the 380/Mercury combo last year... over 30mm... possibly 35mm?? I remember we got to the best compromise and I was due to raise bother inner/outer pads to suit... then the weather turned... I took the shims off forgetting which ones I'd used and put the outfit away for the winter. I had several of differing thickness all drilled in the same place so I could use them in combination to try a range of heights.

It will be interesting to take the 10mm shim off next time we are out with the Suzuki and see if that changes anything.
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Old 30 March 2016, 14:03   #20
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It's interesting how the aerotec always needs a tramsom shim.

Neil how comes you wouldn't use your 25 on the aerotec ?
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