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Old 19 October 2013, 12:56   #11
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Transom savers are recommended by Evinrude for the ETEC30 if it cannot be trailered locked in the down (run) position.
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Old 19 October 2013, 13:26   #12
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Hi
Are there any purpose made supports for sale in the uk?
I use the trim pin in highest position and tie the leg against this to stop it bouncing
I avoid speed bumps and kerbs like the plague
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Old 19 October 2013, 15:03   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher View Post
Oh how I hate those things.

Any movement, however slight, of the boat on the trailer is transferred through the tilt mechanism of the engine.
True, but a) the boat shouldn't move on the trailer; b) without support, any bouncing, penduluming or other road caused jarring gets transferred to the pivot tubes and on to the transom. I remember watching the transom on my SIB get rocked back and forth by over an inch, which is why I now use transom savers.

jky
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Old 22 October 2013, 13:20   #14
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Originally Posted by C2 RIBS View Post

Best advice is to lower the engine as far as safely possible for trailing and lift a little and lower onto a block of wood to hold and support. The higher you trail with engine uo the bigger the strain on the transom as it pivots
+1 for the wood.

Would debate the leverage thing tho'. Tilted a good chunk of the powerhead weight is forward of the transom, whereas when down most is behind...


On phone so can't multi quote.

As for the trailer saver - as all trailers are padded to a degree, there must by definition be movement of the hull relative to the chassis, which will also bend slightly at every impact...
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Old 22 October 2013, 13:50   #15
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Originally Posted by 9D280 View Post
+1 for the wood.

Would debate the leverage thing tho'. Tilted a good chunk of the powerhead weight is forward of the transom, whereas when down most is behind...

Good Point on the weight. We have been told by Yamaha and their enigeers NOT to use the lever support on a trailer, it was designed for engineers working on engine rams etc. Thats their account
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Old 22 October 2013, 13:58   #16
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Originally Posted by 9D280 View Post

+1 for the wood.

Would debate the leverage thing tho'. Tilted a good chunk of the powerhead weight is forward of the transom, whereas when down most is behind...

On phone so can't multi quote.

As for the trailer saver - as all trailers are padded to a degree, there must by definition be movement of the hull relative to the chassis, which will also bend slightly at every impact...
Which is the same stresses as when the engine is in use so it doesn't really make much difference.

Wood it, job done.
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Old 24 October 2013, 09:03   #17
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well, if you ignore the extra HP trying to lever it off when it's in use.......

But yes, I think we are meandering down the same train of thought here.......
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Old 24 October 2013, 19:37   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher View Post
Oh how I hate those things.

Any movement, however slight, of the boat on the trailer is transferred through the tilt mechanism of the engine.

Nasher
I agree with you Nasher with hydraulic Tilt and Trim outboards like ours, but not such a problem with manual tilt outboards providing they are free to go up and down.

Wood still your best option though!
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Old 24 October 2013, 20:01   #19
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Cover the bottom of the leg & prop with a large highly visible bag as it usually sticks out a fair way behind the boat & it will provide a warning & some protection to those who don't notice it.
This. If your overhang is over 1 metre long then it must be clearly marked, but even if it's less than it's still a good idea. Get a cheap high-vis jacket and tie it over the prop.
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