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Old 20 July 2011, 16:57   #11
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no problems at all, i designed it to do exactly what you want - support the weight of the engine so as not to damage the transom, tubes or mount from the turning motion of the outboard. being able to strap the leg of the outboard to the trailer also meant it held the boat securely whilst being towed. this trailer although i say it myself was a dream to tow - never swayed at all even when i caught myself doing 85 with it! was also light - i could just about pick it up on my own. i have more photos if required.
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Old 20 July 2011, 17:07   #12
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Hmm, your making me want to make my own! If you have an overall pic of the trailer, so i can see the basic layout of how you made it, that would help. Did you weld the majority? I dont have/ know how to use a welder, but i know someone who probably would for a bit of beer money. Self build may possibly still be in the equation as there seems to be very little coming up for sale, although im still waiting for a couple of people to get back to me. I think which ever way i go, ill make sure theres some kind of outboard leg support as to stop it bouncing around and possibly causing damage. It would save time having to lift the outboard out the boot & fit it everytime i use the boat. Which doesnt sound much effort, but when the outboard weighs about 50-60kilo, its a hell of a strain!
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Old 20 July 2011, 18:13   #13
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If you build your own you may want to use a galvanised square tube unless you can find someone to hot dip galvanise the whole lot when finished. If you use the galvanised tube, make sure you paint over the welds with something like 'Cold Gal'.
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Old 20 July 2011, 18:28   #14
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I'd snap this up super quick:

Snipe SB1-3 boat trailer | eBay
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Old 21 July 2011, 01:16   #15
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built out of 50x50 box for chassis and 50x25 to form the bunks (which were then wrapped in cord carpet). i also used the lowest rated suspension units i could find so there was still some 'give' in them without the trailer bouncing all over the road. people are often temped to put too highly rated suspension units on trailers. i then of course had it hot dipped - not cheap but means it will last forever (almost!). dont be tempted to just paint it as you will regret it, especially if going in the sea. sea water is as effective as acid at killing steel, and you would find a painted trailer suffering after its first seasons use.
i built this 8years ago and it cost just under 500, which was what you could buy a comercial one for, though the difference being that it was made to fit the boat perfectly and was fully welded, as well as supporting the engine and carrying the lighting board!
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Old 21 July 2011, 03:35   #16
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Thats a great trailer that you have made and for 500, it makes it a lot better than a commercial one as its well suited to your boat. I know someone who works with metal who would have gotten it hot dipped, but id imagine the charge would be massive. Thanks for the advise on self build!
Max... Thats a great spot & iv snapped it up! Hopefully ill be going down to collect it on Saturday, just waiting for the contact details from the seller. Nice 3hour drive each way, but you know, itll only have to be done once .
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Old 21 July 2011, 03:57   #17
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Glad you got it - that was a real bargain and being a proper commercial plated one will hold it's value well.
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Old 21 July 2011, 05:06   #18
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Festinghouse,

I'm no trailer expert but that looks like a long draw bar which will have quite a "twisting moment" on the joint to the front cross member. I know it is only a light boat but it looks to a non-expert like it is crying out for an A-frame at the front - perhaps its because its has 4 wheels that the light weight design looks wrong?
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Old 21 July 2011, 12:28   #19
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Im glad i bought it too, i cant imagine loosing much (if any) money on it if it ever comes to resale. To think i nearly bought a self made one which was pants in comparison for 180... Much rather spend a bit more on the snipe.
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Old 21 July 2011, 14:06   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polwart View Post
Festinghouse,

I'm no trailer expert but that looks like a long draw bar which will have quite a "twisting moment" on the joint to the front cross member. I know it is only a light boat but it looks to a non-expert like it is crying out for an A-frame at the front - perhaps its because its has 4 wheels that the light weight design looks wrong?
yeah i understand what youre saying, as a twin axle it looks like it should be stronger. but as you say it is a very light boat and not a huge amount of weight on the nose so was never a problem when loaded. the only time i noticed any flex in the drawbar was when it was being towed empty and i could feel it wobble as it bounced over any bumps in the road. the only real flaw in my design that i saw was the height of the bunks - if they were lower then it would have been easier to launch on a shallow sloping beach.
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