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Old 12 December 2016, 15:01   #1
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Brake flush - hozelock fitting

I have a Snipe trailer which came fitted with brake flush ports.

Rather annoyingly, there is one port on each side of the trailer (as opposed to a single port that does both brakes at once), and no hozelock connection. You hold a naked hose in place, and hope it doesn't spray everywhere.

Is there a hozelock adapter on the market, or do I need to change the fitting?
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Old 12 December 2016, 16:21   #2
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do you mean one on each drum back plate or have you the pipework too the fittings are just push together units like on pub beer lines think the pipework is 10mm mine connect to a t piece in the middle of the axle and a single pipe to a normal garden hose lock connector
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Old 12 December 2016, 16:27   #3
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I just had the same problem and put a tee piece in to link them then machined an adaptor to go from 3/4 bsp to 16mm x 1.5 pitch as its air pipe fittings I am using take a trip to your local hydraulic place or plumbers merchants to see what they can fix you out with or eBay 271428401633 this type of thing
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Old 12 December 2016, 17:09   #4
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Fek me its not easy is it ! Anyone would think that Hozelock connectors have never been used on boats before....nothing on Snipes website, and fek all information available on the type of hose used etc. So frustrating. Guess will have to call them up tomorrow to find out about the options open to me.
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Old 13 December 2016, 01:41   #5
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there's a good tutorial on u tube
https://youtu.be/Ulr3igcg8NA
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Old 13 December 2016, 05:32   #6
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And to stop water going everywhere when you're pushing the hozelock onto the flush connector just bend the hosepipe back on itself a couple of feet from the connector to stop the flow & then release it to let the flow resume. Same to disconnect.
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Old 13 December 2016, 11:20   #7
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I spoke with Mersea Trailers (Owner of the Snipe trailer brand). Seems that the barbed connection on the brake drums will take standard garden hoze.

So ordered a length of hose, a Hozelock 3-way connector, and some Hozelock quick release connectors.

With some zip ties I want to end up with a single hozelock connection at rear of trailer feeding water into both brakes.

Would be good to take this a stage further and also have this feeding the flush port of the outboard. That way I can make one connection that flushes everything, and leave it for 10 mins or so.
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Old 13 December 2016, 11:40   #8
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You might find that you don't have enough water pressure to feed all at the same time & risk starving the engine. The brake flush points are basically open ends
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Old 13 December 2016, 11:42   #9
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Yes good point. However there is only one way to find out. If the water comes out of the "pee hole" of the outboard at reasonable pressure, then all good.
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Old 13 December 2016, 12:24   #10
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Yes good point. However there is only one way to find out. If the water comes out of the "pee hole" of the outboard at reasonable pressure, then all good.
Don't do it, water coming out pee hole doesn't mean squat for pressure unfortunately. I get overheat alarms on hose only after a short period, is pi33ing water like a race horse but it isn't enough.
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Old 13 December 2016, 12:25   #11
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I am using the flush port, not flush muffs. So engine will not be running.
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Old 13 December 2016, 13:50   #12
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Don't do it, water coming out pee hole doesn't mean squat for pressure unfortunately. I get overheat alarms on hose only after a short period, is pi33ing water like a race horse but it isn't enough.
mines the same can leave it ticking over for ages in the sea and its fine 5 mins on the muffs and the beepers start. id put the connection point for the brake flush next to the bow snub post less ducking down to connect it its all a bit lower at the stern
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Old 13 December 2016, 13:59   #13
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Your flush point on your engine is higher than your trailer flushes water will take the easy route and it won't be your engine as pressure increases in the tell tail ( small bore) both my suzuki's have back pressure when I took the hose off.bad idea IMO.
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Old 13 December 2016, 14:48   #14
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just referencing this thread...check out the last few posts.
Indespension Rollercoaster Trailer - a review - RIBnet Forums
maybe helpful (or not)
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Old 13 December 2016, 15:52   #15
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Your flush point on your engine is higher than your trailer flushes water will take the easy route and it won't be your engine as pressure increases in the tell tail ( small bore) both my suzuki's have back pressure when I took the hose off.bad idea IMO.
Disagree.

Will be using engine flush port and engine will be off. If there is enough water pressure to flush, it will be evident by the flow from the tell tale. If flow from tell tale is poor, then I have a problem.
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Old 13 December 2016, 16:03   #16
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why are you over complicating a simple process?

just plug hose in for 30 seconds in brakes then for a few mins in engine.....job done.

btw, i agree, the water will probably just go out the drums as said above. however, it is your time/money that is wasting so please come back so we can say we told you so ...or you told us so!
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Old 13 December 2016, 16:06   #17
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why are you over complicating a simple process?

just plug hose in for 30 seconds in brakes then for a few mins in engine.....job done.

btw, i agree, the water will probably just go out the drums as said above. however, it is your time/money that is wasting so please come back so we can say we told you so
Only one way to find out, using hozelock stuff that costs buttons. Not over complicating at all. One flush connection makes things simpler.
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Old 13 December 2016, 16:11   #18
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nah, you are now having to carry extra hose which goes between the trailer and engine flush port now. one hose that done the job before is now 2!

my money is firmly on- water skooshing out the brake drums like a good un and absolutely sod all going upto the engine, that is a 3-4ft climb.
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Old 13 December 2016, 16:26   #19
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nah, you are now having to carry extra hose which goes between the trailer and engine flush port now. one hose that done the job before is now 2!

my money is firmly on- water skooshing out the brake drums like a good un and absolutely sod all going upto the engine, that is a 3-4ft climb.
id agree there's sod all resistance in the drums infact I doubt the tops of the drums see much water while flushing so I doubt the water will go much higher
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Old 13 December 2016, 16:39   #20
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We have a hose pipe busting 160psi cold water pressure. I have a 4 wheel trailer. I tried plumbing up all 4 wheels to the flushing port & the water just dribbled out of each drum. I had to split it into 2x2 to get any meaningful "flushing" action. The losses in a hose pipe are considerable. Just turn on your tap & see the pressure that comes out of the unrestricted open end, now divide that by 3.
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