Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 08 August 2004, 04:48   #31
TIM
Member
 
Country: Ireland
Town: Dublin
Boat name: WIZARD
Make: REDBAY 7.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: OPTI 225
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 417
I tow all the time....

Everything from, j24's (From Italy to Ireland) to sand, gravel, plant and machinery....

3 simple rules

1. With twin axles, keep the load even on the wheels, ie ajust your tow hitch or load. One way to check, if you cant tell buy looking at the trailer, is drive a couple of miles and feel the tyre walls, the warmer one has the greatest load ... they should be even temp.

2. wheel bearings . drive a couple of miles, stop and check the hubs buy feeling them, if they are warm its OK, But not any warmer that luke warm. If they are hotter than luke warm keep an eye on them.... and if the wheel close to the hub is warm too, you will have a problem... Ie the wheel is acting as a radiator, and sheeding the heat from the hub, you think everything is fine, while the bearings are cooking. Also Watch you speed, if you tow at 40 and everything is fine , if you increase it to 50 , everything can rapidaly go down hill, so keep you speed constant and dont push it, after a couple of tows you will get to know you trailer and what is right and wrong .When on a long tow check for heat in tyre walls (uneven weight distrabution, or lower air pressure) and Hub heat and wheel heat... you will be fine.

3. GREASE. bearing only get hot for two reasions, overloaded or no grease in them.... fill them full of grease all the time and you wont have a problem, I have seen people drill and tap in a grease nipple in the nut cap of the hub so they can easly pump in the grease untill it comes out the back ,to save the bearings.... just keep them loaded with grease, it not a nice job but its got be done, and dont over tighten the hub nut!!!!!

Sorry for the long post
__________________

__________________
NOT THE SHARPEST KNIFE IN THE DRAWER
TIM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08 August 2004, 06:29   #32
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Birmingham
Make: Avon
Length: 5.5
Engine: Mercury 75
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 41
Send a message via MSN to Andy Beach
Bearing Savers

Quote:
Originally Posted by rads
The other style of hub has two separate taper roller bearings, and it is easier to replace these bearings, though they should be lubricated regularly (after every immersion) to try to minimise internal corrosion. Bearing savers are highly recommended with this type of bearing.
Are 'Bearing Savers' the same as 'Bearing Buddies' I've heard mentioned (spring loaded bearing caps that gently force grease into the hub)?? Can anyone give me details of where I can get them??

Thanks

Andy Beach
__________________

__________________
Andy Beach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07 December 2004, 04:11   #33
Member
 
Pete7's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,850
Thought I would keep this thread on the boil after crawling along the M27 in the middle of the night with with a very hot Alko bearing from Weymouth to Pompey The problem? well an alko sealed bearing and hub that can't be removed. Bent the socket set T bar, broke the ratchet and shattered a 36mm socket trying. Gave up, winched 2 tonnes of Pacific 22 off the trailer instead because it was easier. Used a pully block attached to the rear of the trailer and a rope from the boats painter through the block and back to the trailer winch. Boat moved surpsingly easily.

Spoke to RM, the trailer manufacturers who said sealed bearings were excellent for boat trailers never give any problems so following this useful piece of advice I took the wheel off (4 wheel trailer) and towed the trailer up to De Graaff in Chobham. Arthur De Graaff said they never fit sealed bearings to boat trailers, they are totally unsuitable as the seals are designed to keep dust out not salt water. At last someone who knows what they are talking about. Two new axles later at a very good price, I now have hubs and bearings that I can take apart and check myself without needing a hydraulic press or a 6 foot scafolding bar. Came fitted with "bearing savers" too.

http://www.degraafftrailers.co.uk/
__________________
Pete7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07 April 2005, 11:43   #34
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Kent
Boat name: Cygnet
Make: Humber
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 70hp 4* outbo
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 205
Just had an interesting afternoon trying to get more information from the horse’s mouth so to speak.
I started by doing a search on AL-KO only to find on companies house web site that AL-KO Britain was dissolved on the 31/03/2003.
After another search I found AL-KO KOBER Ltd on the web at the same address & with the same phone number, I tried to ring them only to get a recorded message saying “their office was closed at the moment & to ring back during normal office hours between 08:15 & 16:30.
I then tried to send an e-mail to them; this bounced around for a while between servers before coming back as un-deliverable.
I finally managed to get through on the phone and had an even more interesting conversation, I asked if AL-KO sealed hubs were suitable for boat trailers. The first reply I had was “they are suitable for all types of trailer as long as they are NOT immersed in water” I then asked if a trailer is designed as a launching trailer, i.e. to be reversed into water to float a boat off of it, should it have AL-KO sealed hubs?
The reply was “you can back the trailer into water as long as water doesn’t come into the hubs”
I then asked if I could have this in writing, at which point I was passed on to someone else.
There was then a lot of back peddling, before they then said, “No trailer hubs are designed to be used for launching boats & they are all prone to problems”. I explained we have had boats & launching trailers for a number of years, & with minimal servicing each year (cleaning bearings & re-packing them with grease) we haven’t had any problems.
He finally agreed the AL-KO hubs were probably not ideal for this use because of the difficulties in DIY servicing, although they do provide a lot of boat trailer manufacturers with their hubs & axles.
__________________
Swanley Sub-Aqua Club
Jackwabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07 April 2005, 15:32   #35
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Wilmslow
Boat name: Serotonin
Make: Quicksilver
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mariner 15
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 712
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary Des
Rapid wer talking about doing a trailer with discs, don't know how far they got.
Try this thread Rapide Disc Braked trailer discs also seem to have their problems
__________________
fred bolton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08 April 2005, 11:34   #36
Member
 
gtflash's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: TOP CAT 2
Make: Scorpion 8.1
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250hp HO
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,318
WARNING

PLEASE DO NOT USE CAVALIER WHEEL BEARINGS


Quote:
Originally Posted by gtflash
learnt my lesson yesterday, used a second hand circlip as i bought the much cheaper cavalier bearings and the supplied one didnt fit. Well the wheel fell off and knackered the new bearing and nearly the stub axle etc..

Today Bought new bearing that came with 2 circlips so replaced the other 2nd hand one, trust me 2t of boat on 3 wheels is an eye opener, good job the rangey was there to take most of the weight!!

life saver was nice guy at www.trailertek.com at winchester, opened up especially for me on good friday and £26 for a 251 kit and 2 circlips.

gt
see Alko braked hubs.... for details

the cavalier wheel bearing comes with the wrong size circlip so as a consequence you would have to do what i did and use the old stretched circlip.

Luckily i was manovering when the wheel fell off but it knackered my new bearing, the one shot bolt and i had to turn down the end of the stub axle as it was deformed in the process and the bearing wouldnt fit!! please remember this guys, i think i saved about £3 buying a cavalier one on the price the nice guy above charged... its not worth it.

ps 3 years... wow i hope i will oneday get 3 years outa alko bearings.. alko blow bigtime
__________________
gtflash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08 April 2005, 13:33   #37
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Kent
Boat name: Cygnet
Make: Humber
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 70hp 4* outbo
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtflash
ps 3 years... wow i hope i will oneday get 3 years outa alko bearings.. alko blow bigtime
One of our old boats is on a Snipe break-back trailer, this still has its original conventional trailer bearings, brake shoes & cables, it is now 7 years old. The cables now need replacing because we are unable to pump grease into then any more (yes these cables came with grease nipples)
Once a year we would take off the wheels, remove the bearings & clean them & check on their condition, all moving parts would be greased & then re-assembled.
And the best bit is it doesn’t break the bank, 1 tub of waterproof grease & 2 split pins.
__________________
Swanley Sub-Aqua Club
Jackwabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 April 2005, 13:28   #38
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: Gilly B
Make: Osprey
Length: 5m +
Engine: suzuki 85
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 40
Less rust

I drilled and taped grease nipples into the bearing caps and reversed the seals. This is better at keeping the water out, the down side is grease goes all over the inside of the wheel, less rust!
Have been using the same set of bearings for years with no problems. Top up grease every couple of months.
__________________
smithy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 April 2005, 14:26   #39
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,962
You can get double lip seals. One lip facing inwards, one outwards. It might be better than greasing the brake shoes!
__________________
JW.
jwalker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 April 2005, 15:35   #40
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Kent
Boat name: Cygnet
Make: Humber
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 70hp 4* outbo
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 205
Important Information Just received from AL-KO.
1. DO NOT immerse the hub/brakes when hot.
2. Keep immersion to an absolute minimum.
3. After immersion, the hub should be thoroughly hosed down with fresh water.
4. DO NOT park trailer with hand brake on.
5. It is recommended that normal service intervals are at least halved i.e. every 250 miles/2 months, 720 miles / 3 months, 1500 miles / 6 months.
6. Whilst these bearings are NOT WATERPROOF, they will afford greater protection against the ingress of water than taper roller bearings, particularly if allowed to cool before immersion.
7. Following the above procedures will do much to reduce the devastating effects of salt water, BUT CANNOT GUARANTEE THAT PROBLEMS WILL NOT OCCUR.

So it looks as if the trailer will have to go in for a service every other week, HOW MUCH IS THAT GOING TO COST ?
__________________

__________________
Swanley Sub-Aqua Club
Jackwabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:20.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.