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Old 02 July 2008, 15:11   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-more Andy View Post
Lugnut,

Thanks for the sanity check by way of helping me to remember that getting on the water ASAP is my priority vs. spending hours and dollars refitting/TLC-ing an older boat.

As for my subjects, I'm an emerging/aspiring/semi-pro sailing and marine photog and the RIB is the next step in my plan for world dom...err I mean taking my game to the next level. Everything you see on the site has been shot from begged, borrowed, or race committee boats which have for the most part been out of my control as to where to set up, etc.

Anyway check the site at http://www.andyherbickphotography.com/old/ . I'm currently working on a website refresh and that link goes to the previous version.

Thanks again!

Andy

Andy, if you ever make it down to Solomons let me know. I'd love to grab a beer and talk boats and photography! I've been taking the gear out a bit and REALLY love the way these two hobbies blend.
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Old 02 July 2008, 21:09   #12
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Hi Andy,
checked out your site and some nice stuff
We have a local "charachter" who does a lot of the race events and so I tend to stay clear of those. Still enough business with hard boaters and individual sailors to keep me busy at the weekends.
I attached a few quick shots of my setup. I originalt tried the case across the rear seats, but got really tired of turning around and too slow when I get buzzed by PWC users.
I built the shelf out of thick ply and secured to the console and supported the "tube side" with galvanized pipe.Not ideal, but couldnt stretch to stainless at the time. Made a windscreen from sheet ABS to give a little protection (easier to work than lexan or plexi !! )
The case slots on the shelf and is held by two quick release clamps at the front.
Works well and keep the camera safe on the boat and for carrying around.
cheers Dal
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Old 07 July 2008, 03:03   #13
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I have been out in all sorts of conditions taking photos from my RIB. These are a few things I think make a good photo RIB and I tried to take them into consideration when building mine:

- Its got to be dry. The tube attachment flange on my RIB is angled downwards making it very dry, even in some real choppy seas. Some RIBs are just crazy wet (Avon 5.4 for example) which doesn't really help with getting the shot. See if you can test the boats out in a good chop.
- 360deg vision. There is nothing more annoying than tracking a moving boat with your camera only to have an A-frame get in the way.
- Stable helm position standing or sitting. Its always nice to have a driver who can mind read and predict exactly where you want to be for the next shot, but most of the time you end up driving yourself while shooting. In my rib i can sit and stand in a comfortable braced position while still using both hands for the camera.
- Dry storage. Necessary for keeping camera gear dry. If its real handy like Dal's then thats super good.

Hope that helps a little bit.

Tim
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Old 07 July 2008, 20:31   #14
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Tim
definately agree with the 360' vision.I recently removed my 8ft antenae from the transom and replaced it with a 3ft whip behind the helm pod. You would be amazed how many shots were lost prior.
Now I shoot over the top of the antenae.
Also the A frames are great and really add to a Rib. But not for photography.!
The other reason my Rib is good for photography is the high bow on the XS-ribs (and many of the "European workboats" ) rather than tenders.
Very little spray comes over the bow at the speeds you are taking photos at.

Dry storage at a moments notice is essential! I have had several PWC users come in close for shots and then turn away quickly only to drench you with the "rooster tail"
As well as dealing with the bow wave from "considerate hard boaters who like to bob me up an down like a cork " after having their photo snapped .
cheers Dal
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Old 07 July 2008, 23:23   #15
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Dal, is that a 70-200 lense? The 70-200F2.8 is the longest lense I have and the only one I've had any use for out on the water.

I've been tempted to shell out a bit of cash for a larger lense but just can't justify it for hobby use ya know?
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Old 08 July 2008, 01:22   #16
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actually its the Canon 28-300 L IS lens.
A touch heavy but great range that covers anything I come across.
And yes,it gets expensive
cheers dal
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Old 10 July 2008, 00:07   #17
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Lugnut, a 70-200 is perfect for on water action, especially if it has vibration reduction (VR, IS or OS). Anything longer of good quality (ie 300 f2.8) is gonna be bulky, heavy, expensive and difficult to hold still while bobbing around. Don't forget on a DSLR 70-200 is equivalent of a 105-300 (on nikon)

I hardly ever find the need to have a further reaching zoom, I just try and get where I what to be before the action starts. I only ever find I need extra zoom if I am in another boat and have no control on boat placement.

You could always get a 1.4 or 2x converter, but they are generally crap.
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Old 10 July 2008, 19:54   #18
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Tim
totally agree, the 70-200 is great for this stuff. In fact the Canon IS version of this lens is probably their flagship glass
Really depends on what you shoot. I earn a little on the side with shots of tourists on the charter boats.
Being able to "get onboard" and up close sometimes gives me that capability and a selling shot. Not arty or action packed ,but they like it as a momento.
Also able to fill the frame with the 300 on jet skiers ,without getting splashed is a bonus
As you said without a full frame sensor you have that magnifying factor; so your 70 ends up at 105 mm or so. Not that wide if you are trying to get full length on a tall mast or a close up over the transom.
I got tired of swapping lenses (not good in the spray!) and so found that 28-300 suited me great.
Love your new site and some great captures in there!
cheers Dal
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Old 10 July 2008, 20:04   #19
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Thanks Dal. Might be coming down your way after my summer in whistler so I'll look out for you if I do
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Old 10 July 2008, 20:16   #20
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Originally Posted by slimtim View Post
Lugnut, a 70-200 is perfect for on water action, especially if it has vibration reduction (VR, IS or OS). Anything longer of good quality (ie 300 f2.8) is gonna be bulky, heavy, expensive and difficult to hold still while bobbing around. Don't forget on a DSLR 70-200 is equivalent of a 105-300 (on nikon)

I hardly ever find the need to have a further reaching zoom, I just try and get where I what to be before the action starts. I only ever find I need extra zoom if I am in another boat and have no control on boat placement.

You could always get a 1.4 or 2x converter, but they are generally crap.
Hey thanks slimtim, I've gotten used to the 1.6 crop factor. Don't even notice any more! My lens is a F2.8 non IS version. I picked it up for indoor sports, basketball, wrestling, and Mixed Martial Arts. I could have picked up an F4 IS for the same price but I REALLY needed the wider apperature. I'm pretty happy with it



Quote:
Originally Posted by limeydal View Post
Also able to fill the frame with the 300 on jet skiers ,without getting splashed is a bonus As you said without a full frame sensor you have that magnifying factor; so your 70 ends up at 105 mm or so. Not that wide if you are trying to get full length on a tall mast or a close up over the transom. I got tired of swapping lenses (not good in the spray!) and so found that 28-300 suited me great.
Love your new site and some great captures in there!
cheers Dal
That 28-300 is very sexy indeed and I'll take a look at it in the future, right now I can't quite justify $2500 to myself. Maybe once I've been out on the water for a while, then again, I've talked myself into much more expensive toys recently (RIB) lol!
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