Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 26 October 2012, 08:28   #11
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,611
Easy way to check the loom is to swap to another known core & see if it works. (you may need a small jumper to connect the other core to the coil if it doesn't reach) & see if it fires.

Choke solenoid - can you move it by hand? That would at least tell you if it's mechanically jammed or not.

If wired correctly, normaly it will only fire if ignition is on. Check you have +12V feeding the switch first.

If not put your mutimeter to "ohms" & see what the resistance of the coil is. I'll try to remember to look it up in my Clymer when I get home & post what the reading should be. At a going in guess I'd be surprised if it's any more than about 50 Ohms, probably nearer 10-20. Needless to say open circuit is a dud coil.


Mixing engine makers' bits - There are now at least two of us on ribnet!
__________________

__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 October 2012, 17:42   #12
Member
 
SimonStDavids's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: St Davids
Boat name: Mellifera
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 169
RIBase
The plot thickens!

The solenoid seems to move freely so I don't think it is jammed and with the multimeter the ohms is somewhere between 0.4 and 0.5 on the lowest setting my cheap meter goes down to.

I will swap the blue for the redundant pink to check if the wire is dead but whilst checking a few things I noticed something very strange. I only appear to have about 6 volts at the console end of the loom???

I had this reading across the black and red in the loom and across the switched power from ignition to earth?? I was pretty sure it was supposed to be 12v

Engine starts fine and reads 12.6v across battery terminals. Any ideas what would cause this voltage drop and would it explain the choke not firing?
__________________

__________________
SimonStDavids is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29 October 2012, 07:38   #13
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,611
0.5 ohm is close enough - that's conducting. BUT 6V isn't going to move it! (or anything else designed to work at 12V - your tacho might not be gubbed after all)!

Does your starter work on the key? The starter itself is "hard wired" back to the battery, so gets the full 12V off the big chunky cables (via the solenoid). Your solenoid might be "light" enough to fire on 6V, or more likely the chances are your keyswitch or choke switch contacts are on their way out - you might be getting 12V out the "start" contact, but have a highly corroded "ignition on +12V" contact.

Best bet now is to chase the 6V back & find out where it turns to 12. You have already done the battery, so try the terminal where the small +12 to the remotes wire is connected in the engine (probably o nthe starter solenoid). Unplug the loom, check the pin there. then at the ignition switch. If you got 12V all the way, then try the two outputs of the switch +12 (ign) & Start. If you got +12 on both of them, try your choke switch. (which if it turns out to be gubbed is easily replacable with a big sprung toggle for about 3 from Maplin (remember to buy the waterproof cover for it!)

Corroded connector / switch contacts could give that sort of V drop. Most 12V electrical stuff will work to a greater or lesser extent down to about 10V, below that it's down to luck & the design of the widjet. Some electronics will wheeze on down to 8-ish V, but as the choke solenoid is a simple "turn electricity into mechanical movement" device if the V isn't there it isn't going to generate enough magnetic field to move anything.

Let us know where the V dissappears.
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 30 October 2012, 10:53   #14
Member
 
SimonStDavids's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: St Davids
Boat name: Mellifera
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 169
RIBase
Getting there

9D280 you are a blinking genius! Thank you for taking the time to help a fool!

Right here is what i have so far,

12v at the battery (actually nearly 13v) and the same at the starter solenoid.

12v at the console end between either the red and black or brown and black going into ignition, but not coming out on what i think is the switched power.

I guess that means there is something either busted or corroded in the switch? Are new ignition switches expensive?

Now to the choke, switched to the pink and boom choke worked Only problem now is that pulling the connectors on and of the choke switch have pulled off one of the terminals so i guess i will replace with a maplins one like suggested
__________________
SimonStDavids is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 30 October 2012, 18:11   #15
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,611
At no load 13 & a bit V at the battery is a good thing!

I would guess if you managed to remove a terminal on the choke switch your ignition switch won't be too far behind.....

2 options:
1) a gallon of WD40 into the ign switch, turn it off & on a few dozen times & hope.
2) new switch.

no idea of the cost, it's one of the few things on my rig that haven't died on me so far!

If you are Ok with solderng or crimping, and have the switches on a panel rather than rammed into the remote control, there is an argument that most 2- stroke generation ignition switches would work as long as it had "short on off", switched power & a sprung start position. Most of the modern ones have a "push key in to choke" function, so removing the separate choke switch.

If you want to be a bit creative, what is likely a lower budget option is a simple Maplin key switch (on- off to break ignition - do you even need it with your use?), a DPDT with one side wired "power" the other (opposing) side wired across the deadman (the stop-go selector) and a couple of push buttons / sprung toggles for start & choke. The only dowwn side (as I found on my electrical rebuild) is that the only switches they do vaguely IP rated are the toggles with the rubber covers. Having said that, I bet someone like RS would stock them. (other electrical retailers are avaialble!)
__________________

__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:35.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.