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Old 13 December 2006, 11:55   #1
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Wiring an Accessory Socket.

Tomorrow I'm going to wire a waterproof accessory socket which will primarily be used with a 50 watt/12 volt handheld spotlight.
I shall be using Bulgin waterproof connectors with a Carling switch to control master on/off power.
The run of wire will be about 3 foot from the main electric box to the switch and about 6 inches from the switch to the waterproof accessory socket. The spotlight has a 3 foot flex cable.
My question is that I have the following wire available and wondered if it was of the correct size:- 14/0.3 wiring cable.
I haven't bought the spotlight yet.
I've searched all over the net and this site but am unable to work out if this is the right size of wire. There are so many different gauge standards it gets very difficult to work out what wire I have and what wire I need.
thanks in advance for any assistance.
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Old 13 December 2006, 12:29   #2
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Originally Posted by Biggles View Post
My question is that I have the following wire available and wondered if it was of the correct size:- 14/0.3 wiring cable.
I haven't bought the spotlight yet.

14/0.3 (8.75 amps) is better suited for interior and navigation lights, 28/0.3 (17.5 amps) would be more suitable.
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Old 13 December 2006, 15:17   #3
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Thanks Dirk,

You pointed me in the right direction. Just popped out and bought some heavier cable to do the socket with.
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Old 14 December 2006, 12:12   #4
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Dont forget to Fuse

Hi Biggles, Not sure about the supply board you have, but I would be inclined to seperately fuse this Power supply.
Based on the P=IV thus 50=Ix12 a fuse of 4.2 amps minimum is required.
50 Watts does not seem much but if its a Halogen it will be like single Headlight of small car.
You will need to possibly rate a 10 Amp fuse or higher to allow for other appliances.

If using Copper Wire on different type of metal Terminal, you will get oxides (especially with salt water) forming and thus these joints will not last. Suggest you "Thin"with solder the terminals first.
Aidan
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Old 14 December 2006, 12:20   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aidan View Post
Hi Biggles, Not sure about the supply board you have, but I would be inclined to seperately fuse this Power supply.
Based on the P=IV thus 50=Ix12 a fuse of 4.2 amps minimum is required.
50 Watts does not seem much but if its a Halogen it will be like single Headlight of small car.
You will need to possibly rate a 10 Amp fuse or higher to allow for other appliances.

If using Copper Wire on different type of metal Terminal, you will get oxides (especially with salt water) forming and thus these joints will not last. Suggest you "Thin"with solder the terminals first.
Aidan
Aidan,

Cheers for the solder tip and the fuse rating.

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Old 14 December 2006, 12:53   #6
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Aidan,

Cheers for the solder tip and the fuse rating.

Checked how they did it today, seperately fused etc, just as suggested by others, no rating on the cable...(If you get into trouble I can take pictures) others have done a better job explaining how to do it.

Did you eventually go for the Aquasignal?

Incedently, If you do source a wakeboard carrier ,would you let me know...
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Old 20 December 2006, 10:47   #7
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Sorry for late reply. I shall be going for the Aquasignal. just taking a long time to fit the wiring but hope to start on that tomorrow.

IBWET by the way does that spike think move and if so would I be able to put it on the front of the console below the windscreen and angle it up so that the aqua signal faced forwards ?
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Old 21 December 2006, 12:00   #8
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Originally Posted by Biggles View Post
Sorry for late reply. I shall be going for the Aquasignal. just taking a long time to fit the wiring but hope to start on that tomorrow.

IBWET by the way does that spike think move and if so would I be able to put it on the front of the console below the windscreen and angle it up so that the aqua signal faced forwards ?
I initially intended doing just that, I think it would look good there,but ran into problems because I also had a forward facing speaker slap bang in the middle of the front of the consol (above the access hatch) so not enough space.


The only issue is safety..if not tight enough (you can tighten the spike with a nylock nut) it could fall forwards making it dangerous,if someone fell on it (quite possible in a rib) I never considered this, Ribcraft pointed it out.

I had them fit a buchaneer connection next to the throttle, this allows me to take the light of the A-Frame and connect it to the consol. The connection also allows the wife to connect her heated simmits, wooly y-fronts etc.
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Old 21 December 2006, 12:15   #9
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IBWET,

I've today wired in an accessory socket on the far left of the consol. I'm going to order up the light and spike next and see if I can get them fitted on the front of the console. Means I can use it as light if needed for travelling or unhook it for looking around. The A frame spike will come later.

From what you say putting it on the front of the consol is an option.

regards Nick R.
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Old 22 December 2006, 15:38   #10
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Just ordered the light today so will post some pics when its mounted.
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