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Old 10 May 2012, 03:06   #11
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LOL! If 4 x pie-loving mates sat in the back it would sink, and if I had buttons on the stick I wouldn't have been considering an alternative!
I think we've hit the nail on the head here - buttons on the stick!

Or to put it another way NO!
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Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 10 May 2012, 04:22   #12
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o-o-o-o-o-o-k. if that's your problem find the nearest outboard breaker with a dead set of Suzi remotes and buy a PT equipped lever from them. (it's always the body that breaks so levers are ten a penny)

If you don't have the extra cables in the engine loom for the up / down switches, a length of 3 core from B&Q aand a set of biullet connectors form your locaal auto factors will make a quick lead, but beware the "domestic" cable will corrode at 10 times the speed of the official suz wiring so you'll liklely have to replace it every couple of years.
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Old 10 May 2012, 05:38   #13
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"Hump"

You'll often hear about boats having a "hump" speed ot "climbing over the hump" onto the plane.

The resistance of a planing hull is made up of two components, form drag and frictional resistance.

Form drag is in effect the effort required to push the boat through the water - displacement mode.

Frictional resistance rises as a function of speed (squared iirc).
and immersed area.

As speed rises the form drag increases exponentially until the boat can generate enough lift to start planing. Once it starts planing this form drag reduces. Frictional resistance will of course continue to increase as speed increases.
As speed increases immersed area should decrease a little but not much.

The resistance curve you get rises quickly at high displacement speeds, forms a "hump", drops a little before rising again.

Resistance = Thrust, so the auto trimming function would only work just as you have made it onto the plane, possibly trimming out a little. If you continue to increase speed it will trim back in as the load increases.
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Old 10 May 2012, 09:08   #14
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Originally Posted by 9D280 View Post
o-o-o-o-o-o-k. if that's your problem find the nearest outboard breaker with a dead set of Suzi remotes and buy a PT equipped lever from them. (it's always the body that breaks so levers are ten a penny)

If you don't have the extra cables in the engine loom for the up / down switches, a length of 3 core from B&Q aand a set of biullet connectors form your locaal auto factors will make a quick lead, but beware the "domestic" cable will corrode at 10 times the speed of the official suz wiring so you'll liklely have to replace it every couple of years.
Thanks 9D280, I didn't realise that was all I needed to do. The local breaker doesn't have any Suzi levers with PT buttons so I've ordered a brand new set direct from Suzuki and paid for express delivery. With luck it should be here in time for me to fit over the weekend.
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Old 10 May 2012, 09:39   #15
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Thanks 9D280, I didn't realise that was all I needed to do. The local breaker doesn't have any Suzi levers with PT buttons so I've ordered a brand new set direct from Suzuki and paid for express delivery. With luck it should be here in time for me to fit over the weekend.
Yamaha ones are totally sealed - don't know about the Suzuki ones ..........
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When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 10 May 2012, 10:30   #16
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Yamaha ones are totally sealed - don't know about the Suzuki ones ..........
No idea, but is the PT mechanism invisible on the Yamaha like it is on my Suzuki? ;-)
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Old 10 May 2012, 11:47   #17
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Yamaha ones are totally sealed - don't know about the Suzuki ones ..........
EH? 1 bolt undoes lever, two screws undo the "anti drop into gear accidentally" lever, which in turn reveals the switch?

Are we talking about the same thing here?



The levers & remotes are slightly swappable as well - I used a Tohatsu lever on a Yam box before I got a switch for my Yam remotes. (and I got the whole lever as well!)


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No idea, but is the PT mechanism invisible on the Yamaha like it is on my Suzuki? ;-)
Ha-a-a-a-ang on a mo. You do have a PT unit on your engine? I kind of assumed you were just looking at a fancy way of controlling it......
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Old 10 May 2012, 13:52   #18
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Ha-a-a-a-ang on a mo. You do have a PT unit on your engine? I kind of assumed you were just looking at a fancy way of controlling it......
Nope, as I said in post 5 of the thread, it's a manual trim. Suzuki don't make a DF25 with PTT. And there was I thinking you were trying to wind me up (for asking such a dumb question in the first place) by suggesting I only needed a lever with a switch ;-)
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Old 11 May 2012, 03:05   #19
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OK forget I said anything at all - I think I was on the same page as 9D280!
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Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 11 May 2012, 04:06   #20
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Nope, as I said in post 5 of the thread, it's a manual trim. Suzuki don't make a DF25 with PTT. And there was I thinking you were trying to wind me up (for asking such a dumb question in the first place) by suggesting I only needed a lever with a switch ;-)
Sorry. Must learn to read my own language sometime.....

It might be worth having a trawl through Brownspoint Marine's Microfiches. I bet the DF25 clamp / swivel assy is also used for other engines. Hopefully bigger engines that have PT fitted.

If I get time Later I'll have a quick peruse. The DT25 also doubled as a 30, which assuming a similar "bits share" these days a 30 should be big enough to warrant PT as an option....
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