Recoating tubes with Tuff Coat

enwulff · 10 September 2007, 13:09

I recently picked up a Zodiac Hurricane 630 that had the tubes painted or coated white over the original oarnge hurricane tube. Has anybody had any experience using the SRC Tuff Coat www.tuff-coat.com in this type of application?

scubatecky · 18 January 2008, 11:29

I am also in the situation of considering SRC Tuff Coat. Beind a born synic, I am cautious of good marketing and perfect looking images as presented on Tuff Coat's web site.

Isn't is interresting that there are claims of thousands of people using this product to renovate their RIBs & Inflatables and yet there is no response on this forum. RIB people are special, otherwise this forum would not exist, so someone out there must have had experience of this product.

Having just picked up a Gemini Supreme 550 who's tubes are looking a bit tired, I am looking at an economic renovation product to not only seal them, but also smarten them up and change their colour. ( if I am diving 10kms off the coast I like to be seen). SRC Tuff Coat certainly looks very interresting, but I can find nothing about it's durability or tollerance of Australia's UV rays.

Yes, it may not be overly expensive considering what it claims to do, but how long will it last. Also how well can one re-attach grab ropes, rubbing strakes and handles to this new coating? Should this be done before the coating is applied? Marketing info indicates it can be done after the coating process, but again no independant verification, or advice on adhesives etc.

This is my third RIB and she's a great boat, so I don't want to stuff it up. I have already been through the Zodiac PVC degrading nightmare, so one trip down this costly sticky road is enough.

If anyone has had experience of SRC Tuff Coat, I would really appreciate their comments.

Limey Linda · 18 January 2008, 12:08

I have tuff coated part of my rib. So far I believe it to be a good product.
I would not try to glue patches/handles etc. over it though. It is a time consuming process to get a good finish. Air temp. and humidity are important; you do not want it drying too fast. Dilute if nec. The base coat is the important one, apply multple coats if you need to build up worn areas, and lightly sand in between coats. The top coat is easy. I used a roller.
You will need a lot of masking tape but do not leave the tape on too long as it is a bugger to get off after a few days. I had to stop the project due to weather being too hot and will start again this spring.

MarkM · 19 January 2008, 15:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

I have tuff coated part of my rib. So far I believe it to be a good product.
I would not try to glue patches/handles etc. over it though. It is a time consuming process to get a good finish. Air temp. and humidity are important; you do not want it drying too fast. Dilute if nec. The base coat is the important one, apply multple coats if you need to build up worn areas, and lightly sand in between coats. The top coat is easy. I used a roller.
You will need a lot of masking tape but do not leave the tape on too long as it is a bugger to get off after a few days. I had to stop the project due to weather being too hot and will start again this spring.

Very nice, any pictures?

scubatecky · 19 January 2008, 22:24

Thanks Linda, sounds like I will have to wait until winter for this job, when the temp cools down and the humidity drops, hangs around mid 30s and 70%Rh most of the time in Jan & Feb and with this stuff, it sounds like you have one chance to get it right. With the masking tape, did you use standard tape or the "Low Tack" masking tape painters use?

Arizona gets damn hot, you have had no problems with the finish degrading or discolouring in the sun? How long since you did the job?

Just thinking I had better take some before and after pics of the project.

Thanks

Limey Linda · 20 January 2008, 00:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by scubatecky

Thanks Linda, sounds like I will have to wait until winter for this job, when the temp cools down and the humidity drops, hangs around mid 30s and 70%Rh most of the time in Jan & Feb and with this stuff, it sounds like you have one chance to get it right. With the masking tape, did you use standard tape or the "Low Tack" masking tape painters use?

Arizona gets damn hot, you have had no problems with the finish degrading or discolouring in the sun? How long since you did the job?

Just thinking I had better take some before and after pics of the project.

Thanks

Hi There
I have not finished the job due to being too hot and then having a medical problem. Hope to start again in a few weeks. The areas I have done in both base coat and top coat have not faded after about 6 months, and still look good. I did use low tack masking tape but at 100 degrees + it still bakes on after a few days. Yes wait until it cools down a bit. The top of my tubes were worn down to the fabric as it is an ex dive boat. Do not be afraid to thin both the base coat and top coats down to get more working time and a good flow. Divide the tubes into manageageable area as you cannot do a whole boat in one go. I used a 1 inch brush to get into the tight corners and cut in around fittings etc. and a 3 inch fluffy roller for the large areas. Do all repairs first of course.
T.
PS. Why not glue on some wear patches first where you hairy arsed divers punish the tubes.

Surefire · 17 November 2009, 14:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

Hi There
I have not finished the job due to being too hot and then having a medical problem. Hope to start again in a few weeks. The areas I have done in both base coat and top coat have not faded after about 6 months, and still look good. I did use low tack masking tape but at 100 degrees + it still bakes on after a few days. Yes wait until it cools down a bit. The top of my tubes were worn down to the fabric as it is an ex dive boat. Do not be afraid to thin both the base coat and top coats down to get more working time and a good flow. Divide the tubes into manageageable area as you cannot do a whole boat in one go. I used a 1 inch brush to get into the tight corners and cut in around fittings etc. and a 3 inch fluffy roller for the large areas. Do all repairs first of course.
T.
PS. Why not glue on some wear patches first where you hairy arsed divers punish the tubes.

Ok, almost 2 years later. How´s the result?

Limey Linda · 17 November 2009, 18:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Surefire

Ok, almost 2 years later. How´s the result?

So far so good. A couple of "wear through" spots of the top coat have needed to be touched up. The base coat is still perfect.

Surefire · 20 November 2009, 13:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

So far so good. A couple of "wear through" spots of the top coat have needed to be touched up. The base coat is still perfect.

Sounds good,. is it possible to see som pics? thinking of doing the same thing.