Fibreglassing a hole in my transom

[Whizzbang]

I have a bailer tube on my XS360 at the rear which ideally need removing. This would then result in a large hole in my transom.
Should this be easy to glass over, almost as if it was never there?
Also how much do you think it would cost?

The image shows the same boat as mine with an identical bailer tube.
Thanks in advance, Whizz.

[Poly]

Why do you want to remove the elephant's trunk?

[Whizzbang]

It's become ripped so I'm cautious of it leaking and I would like to mount lights on the transom for fishing instead. Being such a narrow transom I have limited space.

[ShinyShoe]

So how will you drain it in future?
I'd replace the layflat tube my self... (Yellow Layflat PVC Water Delivery Hose - Discharge Pipe Pump Lay Flat Irrigation | eBay )

No sure what the lights for fishing thing is all about. Not sure an ell' trunk and lights are not compatible!

If you really want to fill the gap then in theory its not that hard. But it may be pricey to buy the bits you need for what is basically a small job. Getting someone to do it for you will come with a price tag.

[Whizzbang]

It has a bilge installed, which is why it rarely gets used anymore.
The reason for lights and trunk not working together is the lights would pretty much be the width of the transom.
Am happy to do it myself. What materials do I need? And realistically how difficult will it be?
Thanks.

[Poly]

Originally Posted by Whizzbang

It has a bilge installed, which is why it rarely gets used anymore.

The day the pump fails will be the day you take a big dump over the bow and really need a fast drain.

Am happy to do it myself. What materials do I need? And realistically how difficult will it be?
Thanks.

The problem is if done badly, and it gets a big knock your plug will pop out flooding the boat and you'll really need a trunk then! Im not sure I'd want my first fibreglass job to be so critical.

[Whizzbang]

Cheers for the advice.
But for the day it fails I'll be bailing :/

[breezeblock]

this may seem like a stupid noobie question but the elephant trunks do they get lowered all the time when the boats in the water and what happens if you don't lift them when your stopped do they seal up and keep the water out are they a worthwhile conversion

[ShinyShoe]

So there are 'dirty ways' to do it and there are good ways. If I was doing this I think I'd do the following:

1. Screw a piece of any random wood over the hole.
2. From the other side use a router on a pivot point in the middle of the hole (hence the bit of wood) use it to take 6mm depth off the outer edge of the hole for about an extra 12mm
3. Move the piece of wood the other side and repeat. So if the original hole was 50mm you have a 50mm hole with a 74mm diameter, 6mm deep "hole" either side. Remove the random bit of wood.
4. I'd then cut two pieces of 6mm ply, 73mm diameter and depending on the thickness of your transom enough 49mm x 6mm discs to fill the hole inside the outer sections.
5. Mix Epoxy Resin (probably thickened with silica to a mayo consistency) and laminate the 49mm sections and one 73mm one together to make a plug.
6. Once cured, mix more epoxy and glue the plug into place.
7. Once cured mix yet more epoxy and glue the remaining 73mm section into place, and probably secure with a small screw
8. remove screws etc and mix some epoxy with glass balloons to a peanut butter consistency. Use to fill the screw holes and gaps round the 73mm caps on both sides.
9. Once cured, sand flat and then I'd probably then apply some chopped strand mat soaked in resin if thats what is already on your transom, followed by a layer of flow coat.

That'd be my approach and would be the best avoidance of the "plug" falling out.

But it means apart from a router and sanders etc you need: Epoxy Resin (£20) plus Silica and Balloons (£15), 6mm marine ply (£20 for offcut), CSM, Resin, Flowcoat (£20). So Maybe £75 in materials before you get into gloves, mixing cups, spatulas etc.

I have no doubt there are 'quicker' ways that may work.

[ShinyShoe]

Originally Posted by breezeblock

this may seem like a stupid noobie question but the elephant trunks do they get lowered all the time when the boats in the water and what happens if you don't lift them when your stopped do they seal up and keep the water out are they a worthwhile conversion

Depends who you are! If you have an auto bilge pump then you probably leave them up as it avoids forgetting to lift them. They are designed to "layflat" and posh ones have better closing properties at the end of the tube. They are also designed to either just lie on the surface or maybe just above with a piece of shock cord holding it up a little bit so that the weight of water filling the tube from the boat side is enough to push it down and open and drain it.

They are never 100% water tight, so should be lifted when stopped.

You can run the release cord to the side of the console so the you pull a cord as you stop and release it as you set off. OR you don't do either and wait to you hit a lump of water and then release, again quickly from the console is best rather than having to go aft and put more weight on the stern to release the toggle which lowers the transom more!

[Whizzbang]

Thanks. I don't feel that 'quicker' ways are for me. No point taking the risk for what it's worth.
Still haven't decided to do it my self. Will get quotes also but not looking forward to responses 😬

[gtflash]

Personally I'd just replace the trunk. Easier and a backup.

If filling hole and wanting a floorless finish then polyester is the simplest repair. Downside is it doesn't stick as good as my preferred epoxy and it also doesn't stick to wood at all. So if you wish to use wood in the repair polyester is out.

How thick is transom there? If be tempted to grind a bezel or taper both sides and fill the hole with successive layers of polyester resin and chopped strand. Once hole is filled then layer outward to fill the taper. typically it's quoted as 12:1 bezel so for each inch of depth you go out 12. Might cover ur hole transom if you use those ratios.

If you could work inside out, you could add a backing plate to outside of hole. Then gelcoat, then grp till hole is full, then a layer on inside to whole area and around it to tie it in.

Some gelcoat mixed with cabosil would probably do it thought if it was tapered inside and out, plus a lure of chopped strand inside.

If boat is painted just fill it with epoxy filler or epoxy mixed with cabosil and call it done. A layer of paint and you will be very pleased

[Pikey Dave]

Keep the trunk, you'll be glad of it one day.

Because.........
.....Sh1t happens